Kiwi_Roy

Handtius - Baha1000, who are we dealing with? 2 different problems on one post makes for difficult troubleshooting. Handtius, is your bike OK now? Baha1000 From your tests the Alternator seems normal. I will send you a PM Roy

Don't try to pull the regulator apart just yet, the wires will be ok as far as the board. Have you done the diode test I sent you a few posts back, each yellow to the red should read 0.5 - 0.6 Volts If one is open I will tell you what to do next. Get back to us

You didn't think you were going to get away with that did you? We want pictures Heres what my K&Ns look like I extended them with the original intake rubbers, this made a huge difference to the power band. And without socks If I were to do it again I would get the pods with a slight angle instead of straight ones. The cable loom that used to run past the seat release lock is tucked up under the tank with the surplus where the air box used to be. I extended the breather down below the gearbox and finished it off with a crankcase breather, also from K&N

I guess nobody's tried one. Is it similar to a Power Commander? I have a MyECU from Cliff Jefferies, I am pleased with that.

Fuse 5 should be a 15 Amp http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif Good idea to check the wires, just pull hard on the fuse block and it pops right out. It plugs into a couple of rubber grommets. Are you running any additional driving lights or large headlight bulb? I had my 30 Amp fuse melt like that, it actually welded itself to the holder. I was able to clean the contacts successfully but now I have added a couple of headlight relays and a fuse to drive them, this improved the lights at least by 20% and took the load off F5. Headlight Relays.pdf The two diodes are optional, just appealed to my electrical brain. Good Luck Roy

If a fuse melts like that it's not caused by over current it's a loose fuse socket, it heats up the fuse body melting the plastic. You may be able to clean the contacts with emery cloth and bend them together so they have a tighter grip. A 15 Amp will be OK but I wouldn't go any higher. If when you fix the fuse it still isn't charging Measure between the two yellow wires from the alternator, it should be close to 0 Ohms. I pulled the cover off mine and found one wire was just hanging on by a single strand. I had to replace the wires because the copper had oxidized and it wouldn't take the solder. Check for AC voltage as Gstallons says. BTW Fuse 5 is the headlight fuse, that also supplies the horn as I pointed out earlier, fix the horn and you will fix the charging. Because of this high resistance at times you have also had serious overcharging because the reference for the regulator comes after the headlight relay, the Voltage after the fuse is low so the regulator thinks the battery is low and cranks up to maximum creating more heat at the fuse and so it gets rapidly worse. Charging current to charging Voltage is not a linear relationship, the current will try to go through the roof limited only by the maximum the alternator can produce. I'm surprised the bike wasn't running rough. Hopefully your regulator is still ok Here's how to test the regulator diodes. Regulator Diode Tests.pdf Another thing I discovered, the bracket the regulator is bolted to is not part of the chassis, it's the horn bracket, just one more reason to run a good ground wire between the regulator case and an engine bolt, I say an engine bolt rather than the battery as the engine to battery connection has to be very good otherwise the starter wouldn't operate.

As he said, the charging system is not working, The horn shares a circuit with the voltage regulator. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif The circuit goes battery, fuse 5, Starter relay, headlight relay to the Horn & Regulator. Find out why the horn is not working and that will fix your charging Check your Starter Relay, it must be a 5 pin one in that location. Check the relay sockets, could also be loose also. Relay Base Repair.pdf Charging Problems.pdf Provide a better ground for the regulator, a short wire to a timing cover bolt works well/ Good luck Roy

These are the ones I bought http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=Z2247-ND Omrons, made in USA Buy all SPDT type, they work for any position www.digikey.com they also have the little microswitches "Cherry"that go in your levers

I seem to recall you have to be very carefull with a washer on the drive side, if it slips out of alignment while you are putting things together it's possible to put side thrust on one of the bearings. Perhaps someone else will chime in on this. Roy

About a year back I purchased the last of his brake pedals along with a pair of engine gaurds. The brake pedal is far better made (and stronger) than the original part. I just had a note from Joe to say he has run off another batch http://www.swva.net/jkenny/ it's also on ebay item 350469263868 No, I'm not on commission

Thanks for that, armed with a part No at least I have a fighting chance at the local auto parts. Without that they have to know what year, model and engine size it comes from so they can look it up. I'm talking Canadian Tire here.

Hi, the switch on my V11 Sport gave up, it no longer closes the circuit when stopped. I read somewhere here that an automotive one will fit. Anyone have any idea which vehicle and a part No? Thanks Roy

Like Felix420 I have the K&N pods because they look much better and without the air box you can see the rear suspension. As for filtering perhaps they don't work as well but then I don't ride on dusty roads. Back in the 60s none of the Brit bikes even had a filter. Like felix I used the original rubber hoses to keep the intake length correct, this fixed the flat spot. No I don't have a dyno but I do have MyECU so I can hook my laptop up and twiddle with the map. I am currently running a map developed by Raz. Using a gizmo I cobbled together I have the ability to offset my TPS voltage on the fly, this in theory will cause the mixture to change. I plan on adding a temperature sensor to the exhaust to see what temperature effect changing the mix has.

Have you tried to dismantle the angle drive, perhaps it's something you can fix. Pull it apart and post a picture of the offending bits, someone may have the part you need. You should also fix up the outer cable where it is damaged with some electrical tape, remove the inner cable and make sure it's in good shape also.

Thank you. I like the pods as well but the ones with the metal intake horns. Then I saw on a Japanese site a battery tray for fitting up under the tank when removing the intake box. That'd work in well for further plans I have if I keep this bike. That's a good idea, I thought I would put a box under there for my excess tools, air compressor etc but it makes more sense to put the battery there and have a toolbox where the battery now resides.

Where did you end up mounting the sensor that's in the airbox? First of all I just ty-wraped it under the tank, seemed to be OK but after some thought I extended it out into the fresh air. I cut the sensor off the plug and soldered a couple of feet of wire between it and the plug. This avoided having to open the loom. I just ty-wraped it to one of the frame tubes I extended the breather hose down by the gear change and finished it off with a crankcase breather from K&N. Roy

The pods do look cool IMHO but certainly narrow down the power band. If you decide to go that way get the ones with a slight angle, I bought straight ones. The large cable loom you can see has since been re-routed up under the seat with the excess where the air box used to be. This was done without disconnecting anything. As I said they do narrow down the power band, I have since modified the arrangement by extending the pods using the original air box rubber arrangement like a velocity stack, The pods slipped inside and I secured them with a couple of self tappers. That seemed to restore the power band to where it was. I rode in the rain a lot last year, when I changed the oil this season I found a small pocket of emulsified oil in the sump, I don't know if having the pods caused that. Cheers Roy

If you have an LED lamp it's quite possible for it to light in wet weather however I wouldn't expect an incandescent to do the same. Provided the lamp is OK it should come on without the engine running and go off once it starts. I have found a regulator with open circuit in the light wire (39 Ohm resistor burnt out, I suspect a shorted lampholder caused this) however it still regulates fine, operating the light is a seperate task. cct attached Regulator Schematic - With Notes.pdf

No, don't dissconnect it, fix the wires back on and strap them to the valve body so they don't flex right at the joint or replace with a manual as others have. My 2001 still has the electric fuel cock, works fine for me. Roy

That's why it ran fine after I ran another ground wire: probably not because of the wire, but because the battery was fully charged again. I'm still puzzled why the voltage dropped to normal values then, and not anymore. Yes, you are right on all 4 points, the regulator at least the one I have regulates at 13.9 Volts, anything over that it starts turning off the SCRs When you measure the Voltage between regulator Black and the case it should be ~14Volts Between the case and an engine bolt should be 0.0 Volts Between battery positive and black wire should be quite low, I suspect perhaps a little more with the headlight on. If you have a suitable ammeter you could connect it in series with the red wires from the regulator. Re the ground wire, my bike had one of those too, a tiny wire about 20 gauge, totally useless when you consider the current can be upwards of 30 Amps. I added a #12 bolted to one of the fins and run to a timing cover bolt, I'm not sugesting you have to do that but at least make sure your ground has a good connection to the case by filing it to remove any Oxide and add a bit of grease to stop it oxidizing. To add to the problem the mounting bracket the regulator is bolted to is not part of the chassis, it's a small bracket held on by the horn mounting bolts, Luigi really screwed up on that one, so run your ground around that also. Re the generator light, if it's working it should always come on when you turn the key on, if it doesn't that points also to loss of reference voltage, it recieves power from the same red/black wire that supplies voltage reference so you would assume that when it doesn't operate you don't have Voltage reference either or it could be too low to light the lamp but just enough to turn the regulator on hard. Does the oil pressure light come on? If you refer to the schematic the reference voltage turns on Q3 to ground the light and pulses from the alternator turn Q3 off again. Funny that your light doesn't work then comes back after you turn it off and on again, could that somehow point to the ignition switch? Headlight relay not picking up for instance?, next time it happens check that your headlight goes. I think if you can find out why the generator light doesn't come on you may also solve the overcharging issue if you are testing ground the white wire for a second to test the lamp first if it doesn't go you have a problem with the light or no reference. (bear in mind the lights are junk so it could be a faulty lamp holder, thats why you test it first) I think at this stage I would be riding with a multimeter strapped to the tank connected to various points e.g Battery + to ground, Regulator black to ground, battery + to regulator black. BTW the red/black wire does branch off just as shown in the diagrams, when I was troubleshooting mine I opened up the loom sure enough I found wires twisted together and soldered, very well done though so I wouldn't worry on that score. It might just be your regulator is shot but don't give up on it yet until you have taken a few readings. I would start by monitoring the reference to case I think make sure you always see 12V+ when you turn the key on and it never goes beyond nominal 14 Let me know Roy p.s. I have a 2001 V11 Sport also, a Green one

The headlight loads up the circuit causing voltage drop which makes the regulator think "hello, I need to charge the battery" There should be no Voltage drop between the battery Positive terminal and the black wire at the regulator. Any drop will be added back to the battery until the regulator sees ~14 Volts.

Don't forget the ignition switch, that can also cause rough running if the contact resistance is too high, I'm not quite sure how, but I suspect the ECU relays start to chatter. It only takes a second to check because the test points are under the seat from fuse to relay base contact. Should be BTW, which bike/year are you refering to?

When your battery is reading high try reading between the regulator frame and the black reference wire, I think you will find it at nominal 14 Volts. Then measure between battery + and the reference wire, you will find the difference. Of course if you do see 17 Volts between reference and the regulator case it points to a bad regulator. The generator light (assuming it has a good lamp) should come on any time the key is on without the motor running, your symptoms tell me you are either loosing the power on the red/black wire from the headlight relay or you have no ground at all on the regulator. Actually reading back over your first post you mentioned the strange behaviour, sorry I missed that, two different problems in one thread is messing with my head A high Voltage at the battery will cause the ECU to shut down. Remember, if the regulator can't tell what the battery Voltage is, it can't possibly control it, simple as that!

I think it's pretty much the same drawing but do you know it's the right one for your bike? The missing blue wire goes to the generator light. Around 2000 Luigi started wiring the reference through the ignition switch on some bikes so check for voltage at the headlight relay socket withe the key off. (the 30 contact is the large one by itself, it should have power unless the start relay is energized) Other places you might loose voltage would be at the fuse contacts, relay base contacts, relays perhaps but not likely. Try wiggling the relays while watching your meter or swapping the two relays with another pair. You have added a ground strap to your regulator haven't you? Added any other driving lights? One improvement you could make would be to add headlight relays powered from a new fuse at the battery, that would eliminate the load on red/black wire and improve your lights in one go. I would try to fix it this way first because you do have a resistance somewhere that might get worse. Good Luck Roy