Kiwi_Roy
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Posts posted by Kiwi_Roy
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On 6/12/2019 at 1:04 PM, William851 said:
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https://dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf
The values in this manual still apply to the smaller ECU If you read through this it gives a good understanding of how an injection system works.
One thing that doesn't apply is the vacuum hose on the pressure regulator on the later bikes it's open to atmosphere and the ECU compensates for barometric pressure.
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On 5/16/2019 at 12:56 PM, Tomchri said:
Haven't been here to long, but long enough to appreciate all V11 knowledge available on the forum. WELL worth some hours ++. Thanks
( tiny Luigi story, first start today I noticed rev counter missed to wake up for a millisecond, ok, rest good. Test ride, no she's been better in 3k area. Readings way of. 157v and testride, no not good enough. Another TPS,,,,, set at 157v, ok. Key on, no neutral and oil light on, starts like a dream, no rev counter,,,,,,, Luigi.... checked what I picked up here,,,,,, what was it ? I still mean my relay platform was well greased, took all my Omrons out, and and extra round with vaseline. All good
Yes IPA time.
cheers tom.
Check if the headlight is working, the tach is fed off the headlight relay
BTW the Voltage regulator is also fed from the same source so you don't know if the battery is charging either.
You say the charge light is not On, guess what, it is also fed from the same source, no tach, no charging, no idiot lights, nice one Luigi
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It should be somewhere near the seat release lock
Mine was under the seat release screw, i moved it pretty quick. A gearbox bolt is an obvious point.
Some VIIs have let out magic smoke when the main ground became lose, this diverts the starter current to the small black wire from voltage regulator to battery, it pretty soon glows red hot melting into other wires.
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On 5/14/2019 at 11:09 AM, nuevototem said:
ok! do u have a link to the ducati regulator? thanks!
I think you misinterpreted my post (more likely I wasn't clear) what I meant was get a regulator where the reference is directly connected to the battery so its more reliable.
Heres a Breva, notice how the regulator connects only to the battery
Electrosport is a California company that makes regulators in China, I have used a couple of theirs and they seemed ok, They suggest the ESR 515 for your bike.
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If you think about replacing the regulator try to find one directly connected so that it doesn't rely on the headlight relay.
The Ducati Energia is a series regulator, some owners change to a shunt type but thats your call.
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8 hours ago, rich888 said:
Re hall effect TPS. You'd have to be really really sure it was impervious to stray magnetic effects. Imagine if it read full scale suddenly...
Not a lot would happen, it might effect the mixture a tiny bit, it doesn't change the amount of air.
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Your mileage is a lot higher than mine was, i had to use throttle stops on both throttle bodies to get the idle consistent.
I would find the point of contact with a slip of paper and then turn each screw the same No of flats.
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Before you scrap the regulator do you have an additional ground to it? all the current has to pass back through the ground connections. The small black ground wire is not adequate, any Voltage lost there is Voltage lost to the battery. A short wire or piece of Aluminium strap (similar metals) from the regulator case to a timing cover screw has solved many a problem, make sure you apply some grease.
As Docc says the 30 Amp fuse should show no sign of discolouration, dark colouring is a sign of overheating due to resistance.
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On further reflection I think it is a faulty regulator, the 30 Amp fuse is back feeding through the regulator and providing a supply to the idiot lights.
I think you would find the neutral on as well if out of gear
Try unplugging the two pin connector at the regulator, I suspect it might be livening up the red/black wire
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Another remote possibility is the wire is broken behind the keyed ignition switch and is shorting to the other
The ignition switch block is held on by two Phillips screws up from below.
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Run the Chinese sensor by all means it might be fine but carry another spare
I would rather have a used spare from a parts bike.
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When I built a MyEcu kit for my VII Sport I took the plug off my existing ECU, I had a power commander as well so I wired it directly to the old ECU board and fitted them both in a metal box as a spare ECU
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If you look at a schematic you will see the kill switch is powered either through the side stand switch or the side stand relay (that could be called the Neutral relay because it's triggered by the neutral switch). The side stand switches are a known point of failure, they reside in a nasty environment below the engine exposed to water and road salt yet they are expected to provide a perfect circuit to the ECU relay anytime the bike is not in neutral i.e. running down the road.
When my stand switch failed the "Go Winkie" light was flickering at about half brightness so I simply shorted out the contacts of relay 3 and never looked back.
If I was to re-install a stand switch I think I would use something like a magnet activated reed switch sealed in epoxy or silicone sealant. the current through the switch is only a little over 100 milliamps (relay coil draw), reed switches are hermetically sealed against the environment and rated in billions of operations.
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Low Voltage at the gauge might make it read low but I suspect it would read erratically
The pulses to the tach come from the ECU, I doubt it would be missing pulses.
Sometimes an erratic tach is a sign of charging or headlight problems, the Tach is powered off the headlight relay which also acts as Voltage reference for the Voltage regulator, check the Voltage at the female connector of the regulator M/Fm socket.
Otherwise Rich888 might be right something inside is drifting, I just recently repaired the Veglia off my 72 Eldorado
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14 hours ago, czakky said:
My voltage dropped below 8 while cranking even after re-conditioning this battery a couple times. It would start, but then after sitting it just barely cranks.
New odyssey delivered this week. Hopefully I can get out and test it today.
Yes I think 8 is low, less than 60% normal, its ok to dip down until it gets spinning but if it stays low the spark will also be weak making it extra hard to catch
How about taking the same reading when you get your new battery.
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On 3/9/2019 at 2:57 PM, Goofman said:
MY goodness, how time flies when you're riding. Just realized I had not followed up with my '08 Sport fuse issues. I, too, replaced ALL three of my relays with Matsushita's from MG Cycles, and replaced the silly 18 gauge solenoid wire with 14 gauge. 4,000 miles since, no issues. Period. Thanks again for sharing your experience and knowledge!
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2007_Norge.gif BTW the starter (25) shown on here is nonsense.
You replaced the wire between the relay/5 and the starter, that's good but only half the job. According to Carl's drawing you still have a Start relay powered through the ignition switch. This is easy to check, find the Start relay and see if the main contact 3 is alive with the key Off.
Strange as it may seem the more current you can cram into the solenoid spade connector the less power (Watt seconds) it uses because it gets the job done quicker. While the solenoid is engaging the starter gear the battery has nothing else to do, it doesn't start spinning the motor until the gear is engaged.
On these bikes its suggested you snip the yellow wire below the relay and splice it onto a new yellow 16 gauge run direct to the battery through a new fuse or perhaps splice it into the RH main fuse
Switched Fuse B still feeds 9, 12 & 19 through the original yellow
The number plate light on these bikes was trying to tell us something, I'm sure it was going dim whenever the starter was making the dreaded SI click
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On 10/2/2016 at 5:20 PM, czakky said:
When voltage decreases amperage increases. Right?
I'd say job well done!
Guys often get the transformer rule mixed up with Ohms law. If you drop the Voltage through a transformer the current goes up as the Voltage goes down, it 's really not applicable to your bike.
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Any battery can put out 12 Volts no load, its how much will it put out under load is the thing. You can take it and have it load tested but the starter is a pretty good indication, probably over 100 Amps
Fix your meter to the battery terminals and take a reading while it's grunting to get it over the hump of compression. Which reminds me I've been meaning to check my old loop for weeks it has a Power Patrol SLA1116 of 18 AH rating, I thought it was on the way out. First off I connected my Voltmeter to the charging leads with a couple of jumper leads, it read 12.9 Volts. I lifted the plug caps off so it wouldn't start and ground away for about a minute in several second bursts it would drop down to 10.9 while cranking.
I was shocked half an hour later when it was still reading 11.8 and holding 10 while cranking, occasionally compression would catch it off guard and the Volts would pull right down to 7 for a second but it would come back to 10 once it got spinning. All this time the headlight was burning.
My test wasn't very scientific, I should have measured the current at least but I didn't expect it to last more than a few spins of the motor but at least I have established a point of 10 Volts while cranking and have a healthy respect for this battery. Of course you don't want the Voltage to drop much under 10 or you may not have enough for a reliable spark, this old girl doesn't mind.
If I had measured the Amperage I would have seen it shoot right up while the motor was stalled and come down once the motor started to spin, motors also act as generators as they spin they generate Voltage in the opposite direction (commonly known as Back EMF (back Electro-Motive Force)) which subtracts from the forward Voltage to bring the current down.
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On 4/12/2019 at 6:45 PM, fotoguzzi said:
Yes the starter from MGcycle will fit any v11 or Tonti frame big twin.
Be sure to give us a ride report, I'm sure you will be surprised what the old girl can do.
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Thanks for weighing in Docc, I have no experience with swapping starters.
Sorry it was me that mentioned Bosch, Gatorman said D6RA2
It sounds as though Gatorman has the bikes original starter as well though, that should fit
I still don't know for sure he is talking about a VII or something else, we don't have the obligatory picture, LOL
So it turns out to be a VII Bassa at least that's what it says on the side cover, beautuful mile muncher, the EVs had foot boards, I prefer the pegs and love those tubeless wheels, a classic Guzzi for sure.
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Barely run in then, perhaps there is something different wrong.
BTW I think most automotive starters rotate in the other direction, if you look at how the motor sits in relation to the engine the car approaches from the front, the Guzzi approaches from the rear so the slip clutch has to be different, if the previous owner replaced the original with an auto one, can you confirm it's never run since it was replaced?
Has the bike run from a bump start?
Can you confirm the fields aren't loose?
Looking at the front of the crankshaft the Guzzi runs clockwise but looking from the same direction the starter rotates counter clockwise.
How is the battery is installed?
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Your starter seems to be one Guzzi use, sorry I don't know if there is a difference but someone will
Any identification of the model at all VII Sport perhaps, can you post a picture, someone may be able to tell by the Vin No but not I
Can you post a picture of the bike? What mileage has it done?
Feed us a bit more information and we will get you going.
Where are you located, perhaps you are close to another Guzzi owner who could help.
Yes Negative is ground.
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I really doubt the starter needed replacing after such a short life, who knows what he stuck on. An OEM starter can't cost too much.
You did check the battery direction?
On re-reading I see you bought a D6RA2, that looks right but I have never bought a new starter
Please double check you have the right battery polarity.
What is the milage on the bike?
Do you mean a VII EV? Bassa or Jackal, all very similar
Yet another click no start problem, but with no click !! - 2001 Rosso Mandello
in Technical Topics
Posted
I missed that its a 2001, easy thing to do is plug a test lamp in the relay socket /30, see if its alive with the key off
Revised June 26 2019
All
I am sorry to start a new thread about what seems to be an old problem but I am getting an issue with my Rosso Mandello - after an evening of investigation the problem seems to be that the starter circuit works fine, I am getting 12.7 ish volts at the spade terminal when pressing the start button but when I connect it to the solenoid the voltage disappears and I do not get the solenoid click or starter motor engaging!!!
No, its not fine, this is classic Startus Interruptus.
The Voltage you measure at the wire (unplugged) is without any load, it will seem normal even though there could be significant resistance in the circuit. When you plug in the spade connector there is a heavy load connected so the Voltage drop due to resistance between the battery and the spade shows up. You cannot afford even a fraction of an Ohm anywhere in this circuit. It may be as simple as a bad relay or loose connector at the relay socket.
I found this sketch I did for someone showing the effect of resistance, in this case about 0.2 Ohms between battery + and spade connector.
The resistance has caused the Voltage at the spade connector to drop in half, this drops the current through the coils in half so the strength of the solenoid is also half what it's supposed to be so all you would hear is the click of the relay or perhaps it might crank intermittently. If the solenoid manages to close the main contact the starter will crank at normal strength.
Note: I only show resistance at a few of the possible points