Chuck

Hi, Phil.. do you have a part number for the kit? Yes Chuck, p/n 01 20 16 41. About $120US from memory around 18 month ago Ciao Thanks..

Sort of a x post from WG.. Lucky Phil is not the dumbest bear in the woods, so when he speaks, I listen. No matter that he doesn't care for my beautiful red gaiters on the Aero Lario.. I ground the pawl surfaces where they ride on the shift drum pins. 1-003 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr 1-007 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr 1-006 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr 1-004 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr ferinstance 1-005 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr I've learned a few things that might be useful here. I'll post them when I put it together.

As far as I know, all V11S are susceptible..

Give that man a coconut..

Yes Chuck, replace both springs. The detent arm spring doesn't usually give much trouble but while you're in there and ordering stuff. Glad it was something so simple. You have the earlier shift plate assy so check the dia of the boss on the shift pawl arm and compare to the ID of the pawl spring and make sure there wont be any binding. I suspect it would have broken by now if its the too big 16mm dia boss, so it should be fine. Ciao PS make sure you get the centering/return spring installed the right way up Chuck, if you dont one of the arms rubs on that crescent shaped land just behind the stop pin in the photo. Thanks, Phil. I have a spare pawl spring in my tool kit, so I'll just install it and keep the other for a spare. Maybe I should paint it red?

IMHO, there have been issues with some runs of UFI filter gaskets. Some filters came loose, some stuck so hard Superman couldn't get them off through the porthole of a V11S, some stuck to the seal surface, and the mechanic didn't notice (!) and ran another filter on top. I quit using them after having a leaker, and reading about others leaking at the crimp. I now use the Bosch 3330. It's an ok filter, available anywhere.

Hi, Phil.. do you have a part number for the kit?

The bike has 32K miles. Should I put a new pawl spring in it while it's apart, or go with what's been working?

Who ee, it's hot out in the hanger today. It was the centering spring. 1-003 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr With one leg broken it won't shift up. If I held the gizmo (technical term) on center, it would shift normally. 1-005 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr $9.88. Cheap.

Couldn't stand it. My cub didn't come in to work today, so I'm going to have a look at the pre selector even though the shop is full of airplane and parts for a steel mill. It's only supposed to be 91F today.

Correct. Never have heard of that.

So far, I'm liking what you are saying.. I'd much rather it isn't internal.

It's free to move down to neutral or first, but not up.

I would think that if the spring was broken, the shift lever wouldn't return to the neutral position.

BTDT on the side of the road..

Thanks, Docc..

I was sort of afraid of that.. Ah well, I get to *fix* something.. Eventually.

Hmm, went to post this and it apparently went into the ether. Typing on a strange tablet, I no doubt pushed the wrong button.. but I digress.. Coming to a stop, it shifted down normally. Leaving the stop, it shifted into second but no farther. It will go back to first, neutral, and second, but that is all it will do. It's not the shifter spring, apparently, and the linkage looks fine. Has anyone seen this before? I've never heard of it. Fortunately, Dorcia had the van in camp, so we roared back at 40 mph for 40 miles. . borrowed a ramp, and loaded the Mighty Scura in the van. Any ideas? TIA

Just a heads up, and I'm certainly no expert on brakes..but when I rescued Rosie (Rosso Corsa) the rear rotor was blue, and seriously warped. The rear brake line had gotten out of the clip that holds it, and had been rubbed through, to boot. Decide it was time for a new rotor, caliper, brake line, and rebuilt the master cyl. Went for a ride, came back, and the rear rotor was hot. (!) I seldom use it. Hmmmm. One trick I use is to hang a 20 lb. weight on the brake pedal overnight, and I hadn't done that yet. That gets all the micro bubbles of air to go into the master. Rode it the next day, and it was fine. Don't ask me why, but I've read of this problem on the spineys, and it cured it for me.

YMMV. I had to take the brass holder off to get my Sport running right. Me too. I think it had too slow of a heat-sink effect, meaning it took too long to heat up and cool down under different conditions, so the ECU was always a little behind in fueling and ignition changes. It ran much better when I put a new, OEM blue plastic holder back in. While it is clear that having (or not having) a brass temp sensor holder can change the way the V11 runs, I am not sure about the notion that it slowed down the heating up and cooling down of the sensor. Having the plastic sensor holder, as opposed to the brass holder, more likely slightly insulates the sensor compared to the brass holder and allows for the sensor to always run a little colder than it may otherwise run with the brass holder. The brass holder would obviously better conduct heat from the head to the sensor but is incapable of being hotter than the head it is attached to. The plastic holder would likely insulate and slow heat transfer from the head to the sensor, resulting in a lower temp reading. A lower temp reading could result in a slightly richer mixture, often a good thing but not always. Thus, some run better with the brass, some run better with the plastic, depending on whether richer is better or worse. FWIW. It took me fully 2 years of fooling with my Centauro until I was happy with the way it ran. One thing I noticed was when I was caning the tits off it, I got *better* fuel economy than when just riding around. This was with the Creedon 5, Stucci x over, K&N's and Guzzitech mapped PC. Other things, too, but those were the major ones. There was also a hiccup (occasionally) at (sorry, Ive forgotten the RPM. 3400 rings a bell, but I wouldn't bet on it. I thought, "maybe the computer thinks the engine is too cold, and is enriching the mixture." Put the brass temp sensor on, and mileage suddenly went from the mid to high 30s to the low 40s. Magically, the hiccup was gone,too. I put 42000 on it before mistakenly hearing the siren song of the Norge. Everyone that has ridden it since remarks about what a great running bike it is. Just my experience, of course.. YMMV..

Filled the tank an put Stabil in it before the rains came. Put it on the work stand with a block under the oil pan to keep both wheels off the floor. Said sleep well to it..

Thanks, Phil..

Have you had one of them apart? The piston seats in the bottom of the bore and closes an orfice. If it doesn't seat, it leaks. It is a perfectly adequate test.

Not good. That's a sign of loose bearings. Does sound like the PRV is ok, though.. I'm hoping it is a sign that an important part of the gasket was missing - and that the bearings still have some life in them. Stay tuned for parts delivery, reassembly, and testing. Oh, I thought you'd already replaced the gasket, and oil pressure dropped rapidly as the oil warmed up. Carry on..

Not good. That's a sign of loose bearings. Does sound like the PRV is ok, though..