Lucky Phil

The factory settings are .1 and .15 and most run .15 and .2 which is within reason. Running .25 on the inlet is +150% of the factory specs. It's all very well talking about CO readings and how well it runs but I'm also concerned about mechanical issues as well and I doubt Meinolf has done a 120,000 miles with these valve settings. It's like tuning a race engine, a lot of the time you need to sacrifice the last few % of performance to aid rideability and reliability. Ciao

Will somebody here buy/test a Purolator PL14476 and see what it's like for fit, function and quality? I'd need to import one and it's only worth it if I order a few. Just like to confirm the fit more than anything else. I know Purolator are probably the best filter around. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html Ciao

Just watched a Youtube comparo between some filters and the Hiflow came out well compared to a K&N a Wix and a Fram for what thats worth. Pretty basic comparo I must admit. Ciao

You just cant load a map without doing the basic work. From memory Meinolfs maps are set up with 150mv and the bypass screws closed and 0.25 valve clearances. I'm not a fan of his clearance figures but that's what he runs. The info is here somewhere on his base settings. Here's the delta fuel map between a Titanium map and a 2002 std V11 map. Both are Delta maps remember in percentages. Here's the delta fuel map between a Titanium map and a Rosso Mandello map. Note the different throttle brake points on this one.. Ciao

Ones a black colour and ones white? Not really sure to be honest. I read a lot about car oil filters a few years ago and have an opinion there but not the bike ones. Maybe I should do some research as I'm about to change out my filter on the new engine from a UFI to a HiFlo. Ciao

There are two styles of the metal gaskets at least for the front cover. The Valpolini style is metal core with a slightly coarse black surface finish. The other style has the metal core but a smooth black finish. This is the Ducati style and the same as later 1100 head gaskets which BTW fit the earlier bikes and give you a little increase in compression and a useful reduction/improvement in the squish. I have a set of these for my 2 valve engine as well for the next time the heads are off. Ciao

It doesn't matter they fit the V11. My 2 valve motor has 1100 Griso valve covers. Ciao

If there's one thing a Guzzi or any big air cooled V twin doesn't need it's something impeding airflow to the cylinders, let alone the hottest area of the cylinders. Do people not rationalise this stuff before going ahead with something like this? Apart from that it looks Shite in my opinion, but thats to be expected from someone that runs the Quad-D tin can and, Ahem, bar end mirrors:) He's achieved the trifecta of bad taste here. Ciao

Probably when they had the gearbox out and apart for the recall. Ciao

The latest version. Normally comes with the female blade connector to use on the wire. https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_140&products_id=2387 Ciao

The bike runs and idles fine but I suspect the slight popping on the overrun which seems to come from the right side is due to the air leaking past the shaft. Greater vacuum and airflow due to 3000 rpm with idle fuel values equals lean mixture on the overrun. I've dialled it out with the CO trim although I could also do it on the main fuel map on the closed throttle value at 2-3500 rpm where you notice it. The most noticeable thing though is the tapping sound at idle, sounds like tappet noise but its the throttle valve moving. The other thing is it affects the initial throttle response as the left valve moves it needs to overcome the wear in the r/h t/b shaft so you can never get it to carburate perfectly off idle. The left opens fractionally before the right. None of this is terrible but I can feel it and hear it. Loctite red is high strength and requires heat for hand tool removal. Green thread locker is medium to high and for use on already assembled parts,ie it's a wicking compound. Green is also the colour of bearing mount loctite. Personally the only place i can see a need for red Loctite on the throttle bodies is the throttle plate attachment screws the rest only need Blue. Manufacturers are more concerned about averting risk than future maintenance so if they can liquid weld the things together thats the way they'll go. Minimise their risk and maximise your future maintenance headaches. Ciao

If you're doing the timing cover gasket( front engine cover gasket?) you now use the metal gasket with the pressure sensitive sealant also sold by MG cycles for the later big block engines. Totally bullet proof and the same as Ducati twins have been using for years on their valve cover gaskets and head gaskets. I havent used one of those horrid old composite gaskets that blow out on a front engine cover for years. Ciao

Yes I tried the heat gun method to no avail. When I pulled the injectors during the Daytona build with the T/B's on the bench the retaining screws were a pain and I sheared the head off one and was lucky to be able to get the remaining piece out. It took a lot more heat than a heat gun though. My r'h throttle body shaft bushes are badly worn and require replacement. I assessed them years ago and should have revisited the wear issue before I fitted them. I've scoped out the bushes and seals by stripping down an old spare set of Ducati bodies and am awaiting another set of throttle bodies from Paul to arrive. I'll then decide on which set to use, I may need to rebuild both sets, dont know. When the new set show up I'was going the experiment with how much heat was going to be needed to get the support screws to loosen. At the end of the day I'll do a tutorial on how to replace the bushes. What Snapon assistance was the key? just a better fitting allen key? Ciao

How did you get the screws out for the aluminium cross piece? Mine are going to strip the heads out if I use any more force and i'm assuming they have used red loctite on them as usual and I'll need a lot of heat for them to release. Ciao

There could well be a lot of air trapped at the top hose connection to the master cylinder. Unbolt the master and carefully with the cap off tilt it so the reservoir is higher than the banjo connection and jiggle the lever. By jiggle the lever I mean just that, dont attempt to actuate the lever just jiggle it in it's play region. You will see air bubbles come into the reservoir. You can also while you have it in this position tap the accessible clutch line with the handle of a screwdriver to break free any air bubbles. They will come into the reservoir once again. Ciao

Yes, I've covered it already, years ago.Peter is right,he put me onto them. Ciao

How did you get the throttle bodies off? Did they come off in one piece or did you separate them off the supports? Ciao

Not sure. Ciao

Ok thanks for the clarification. I wasn't totally confident the T/B's were 45mm so I qualified it with a "think". I was going to measure them. They are smaller than the Daytona ones so they must be 45mm. Why the quoted performance difference when the Sport has 1 point higher compression? Not sure may just be the vagueries of Italian factory literature or a conversion issue. Ciao

My brains hurting now Ciao

The 1100 used 40mm Dellorto's and the V11 uses I think 45mm throttle bodies. The 1100 I should be the same output as the V11 with the same throttle bodies but the manual rates it the same as the 1100 carbed. Ciao

Same except for the compression ratio 9.3 for the V11 and 10.5 for the 1100 sport although the V11 has 67 kw V's the 1100 Sport with 66 kw. Cam is the same as is the valve size and bore and stroke. The V11 has EFI and the Sport 1100 had carbs. 1100 Sport-i had injection. Ciao

Your preaching to the converted here. I think this has been done to death and answered here and in previous threads. Ciao

I bought two about a year ago from China at $15US each. Seems to work fine on the Daytona engine and the quality looked good. Ciao

I've got to write all this relay troubleshooting down on a plasticised card and carry it on the bike. Ciao