Lucky Phil

So it's been a while since I updated this thread, but I've been doing stuff. Not "Chuck" type doing stuff but chipping away. Firstly I had a very minor oil weep to sort from the head oil feed banjo on the cases and replace the oil pressure switch where the gauge was fitted. The oil feed banjo was a real bastard to do and necessitated making 2 special tools. I hadn't really done it up tight enough due to the head being so close to one part of the cases you couldn't get a ring or socket on it and even an OE spanner had limited movement. Anyway finally sorted that and used my other special tool to re fit the oil pressure switch. The other issue was of course the fuel tap and I've covered sorting that elsewhere. Its now lovely to use and doesn't leak, hooray. I've got a new one on the way and I'll mod it as well. The biggest issue was the mapping and I spent many hours getting up to speed on Guzzidiag including reading every post on the Guzzi.de forum going back 9 years where Paul Daytona and Meinolf and Beard the Wizard behind diag along with Paul live. This is the home of Guzzidiag and there's a ton of info there. I'm amazed that Paul and Beard got the first iteration up and running in a few months, impressive. With my rudimentary understanding of the system my thoughts were to obtain a .bin file from a Centauro which has a 16M ecu and simply transfer the mapping info into the 15M. Gritman in England you may remember did the same engine swap and kindly sent me his map and I tried that. It didn't run that well and from the fuel map 3D it looked very rich. It ran better than the std V11 map but wasn't ride-able except around the block. I hadn't seen a std Centi map at this point so I had nothing to compare with. At the same time thanks to audiomick one of the mods at Guzzi.de and a fellow Aussie living in Germany I was put in touch to Karsten who also had some Centi .bin files and generously sent them to me. I now also had a couple of enhanced Centi bins to compare. All this is extremely useful if you actually want to learn and see whats safe to do. It gives you known references. I also had to buy a brand new ECU as the original looks like it had a failed baro sensor. It worked ok but I suspect it had reverted to a default baro setting. So today I loaded the new bin with the Centi mapping ( which has different load and rpm break points) into the new ecu and fired it up. A little ropey to begin with until I got the balancing and idle sorted and then took it for a ride. Straight away it worked really nicely, only complaint was very minor popping on the overrun. I tweaked the CO up a little from 0 and got that eliminated and it runs and rides like a champ. So time to put some miles on it and see whats what. Big thanks Paul, audiomick and Karsten for the assistance as well as Beard for Guzzidiag and the guys that helped it evolve into what it is today. It's a really good tool and in my case has been totally faultless to use. Ciao

I'm speechless docc you've set the bar very low there:). If you need mirrors that big you're not riding fast enough.Dead flies on the back of the helmet? Ciao

True docc but the fun police make you have them:( Ciao

Submit an image for ratification please docc:) Ciao

docc we need to have a discussion about "style":) You guys are at a disadvantage I'll admit where Elvis in a jumpsuit and Graceland set the standard, but I'm willing to help Ciao

Love the car (Healey 100/4 or is it a 3000?) hate the mirrors. If I had one of those the mirrors would be tossed. My dream is to build a Cobra replica(a sixties car). You dont see anyone using "wing" mirrors on them. Ciao

There're like those front mounted fender mirrors on cars from the 60's. Look like Micky Mouse ears on a bike.So many high quality unobtrusive standard mount mirrors available now there's no excuse for them. Ciao

eeek.......bar end mirror:) Ciao

Not Distributor wrenches? Ciao

Engine mounts? Ciao

Radial engine cylinder studs? Ciao

Yes I thinks so as well. Ciao

Yes docc my advice was what I "suspected" depending on whether or not the bearing when fitted was tight to turn with a std clearance which would indicated too much interference on the fit. If that was the case i'd go for a C3, but all things being equal with proper housing to bearing interference std bearings are the way to go. A C3 wont hurt it's just not required unless there is an issue as mentioned. The spacer dimension is critical on the front as well but if the bearings are doing 50,000 or more miles then it's probably not an issue. If bearings are failing early then the clearance and spacer dimensions need looking at. My rear wheel bearings are tighter than ideal when fitted and I suspect they may need C3's on the next replacement depending on mileage. Ciao

What is this Cheese? Ciao

Well, probably not docc, C3's are generally harder to get and often special order, here at least mostly. How may miles on the failed bearings? Always wise the measure the spacer length if the bearings aren't lasting as long as they should. Ciao

Problem is you cant buy the mod kit anymore. I'm not even sure if you can buy the individual components for the shock damper and it needs a special tool to disassemble. If you can buy the "coupling hose" parts and the drive sleeves they are expensive. At least from TLM they are as I see them advertised on ebay from time to time. Ciao

I have the Stucchi crossover and the same muffers in Stainless steel and it all goes together nicely. Pull the headers and fit new crush gaskets and assemble the whole system and align it and then torque up the fasteners. Ciao

No need for C3 bearings with additional clearance docc. These are only generally used for high speed or conditions that generate higher bearing temps. Wheel bearings dont fit that criterior. Ciao

If you look on the German forum for these things everyone seems to run 10W-60. The xxW number should always be as low as possible for a full synthetic oil. By that I mean a true group 4 oil. The only reason for a 20W-xx oil was in the days of mineral based oils which sheared down relatively quickly and the base 20W oil was insurance for those that didn't do oil changes. Full synthetics dont break down like that so a heavy base oil isn't necessary. For those that think a 0W-40 as an example is too thin have a think about this. At engine operating temperature say 90-100 deg C where the engine is designed to produce peak torque, in other words to be at maximum load the 0W-40 oil is around 1/3 the of viscosity that it is at room temperature. So the argument that its too thin doesn't stack up. It's still more viscous when cold than at operating temp and at operating temp its a 40 weight oil. I would run a -10W-40 full synthetic if they made such an oil. I've run my V11 on Mobil1 0W-40 for ten years with no seal leakage, no oil at all in the airbox, no oiling issues at all period. It also has adequate ZDDP levels of 1000ppm for flat tappet engines. You want to be aiming at ZDDP levels of 1000-1400ppm. More isn't necessarily better. For the Daytona I'm inclined to go heavier say a 10W-50 or 60 full synthetic only because they tend to run hot in traffic and could use the extra viscosity at idle to maintain oil pressure. A std Daytona/Centauro engine doesn't really in the real world put any more load on the critical load carrying components such as main and rod bearings than a 2 valve engine either. The power outputs of both are within reason pretty much the same So from my first hand experience and a little basic knowledge about oil I'd say for any of the old generation big block engines the choice would be a full group 4 synthetic in the 0W-40, 10/15W-50 or the 10W-60 depending on the ambient temps you ride in and traffic conditions. For the later 8 valve engines i'd go with the recommended 10W-60. Ciao

The frame extension is from the breather banjo fitting fwd by the looks which ties in exactly with my tank measurement differences and the fact the 2 different engine front frame supports mount to either the short or long main frames. Ciao

Its a device to spike through wool bales to provide a lifting loop for loading and moving about. Ciao

Yes John, great book. Another good RR one is "Not Much of an engineer" by Stanley Hooker. Ciao