Lucky Phil

Ok cool, looks like a professional outfit. Ciao

Ok cool thanks for that. Who did your mapping for you if I may ask? Ciao

Thanks Jaap, yes the plan is to get it running acceptably well to ride it round and put around 1000 klms on it and then do the dyno tuning. What ecu did you run? Ciao

First thing to do is change out the fuel filter and measure the fuel pressure if you can before going down the re-flashing the map path. Ciao

Well here it is out and about today. First ride.I started off trying a std V11 map. Strangely my bike has a very early 1.5M ecu and for some reason doesn't present any baro pressure info. Paul Minnaert seems to recall the early version ecus have something different about their baro sensor. He's going to get back to me when he has access to his info.Hopefully this just means for the moment the baro pressure is set to a default. The other odd thing about my ecu is it's loaded with a 2002 LeMans map. I've owned this bike for 10 years so pre Guzzidiag days so how this has gotten in there I dont know. Any thoughts anyone? Maybe this is why the baro info isnt displayed because that function of the early ecu isnt compatible with the later maps. Hopefully Paul can shed some light. I reset the CO trim to Zero from -12 and the bike seemed to idle fine on the V11 map. Starting's a bit ropey though. So out I went for a ride around the block. It didnt run that well to be honest, I mean it got me around the block a few times but you wouldn't go out for a ride like that. It did allow me to check the oil pressure though with the temp oil pressure gauge though with the oil a bit warmer and 60 psi @ 2500 rpm at around 52 deg C oil temp on 15W-40 which will be adequate. I believe that figure will turn out to be the relief valve setting. If I feel the need for more pressure I'll go to a 10W-50 but I'm OK with 60psi max. I came back and decided to load the map Gritman had sent me for his V11/Daytona and see what that was like. Out I went and it was way better, not really great but you could go for a ride at a pinch with this map although truthfully it will need to be a lot better than this. Gritmans bike has pod filters and I'm not sure what crossover so it was never going to be perfect. The gearbox shifted nicely and the bike went well in all other areas so now its just about the tuning. Hopefully I'll be able to get some help with that. Now Then. How it was when I bought it 10 years ago Ciao

Ok cool Thanks Jaap. EDIT......all good now thanks again. Ciao

Sound glorious docc. You guys are heading into summer and hopefully that helps virus wise. At the very least its better for the spirits. Yes strangely my 2 albums switched around there for a while as well. Ciao

No joy docc. Even tried uploading an image I have previously uploaded and all I get is this message NoDecodeDelegateForThisImageFormat `/tmp/imagicke0XTUm' @ error/constitute.c/ReadImage/544 Please contact us for assistance. Ciao

No the Stucchi. The Stucchi is the best, it fills in the hole in the middle of the torque curve and maintains the top end and is supported,robust and doesnt crack. Here's a link worth reading again from Brad Black....http://www.bikeboy.org/v11sport.html Plenty of other Guzzi tuning stuff of Brads to read as well. This was what I made my cross over decision on all those years ago and it proved to be right I think. Ciao

Meant this one docc. Ciao

I like the stripes on the silver tank, at least from that angle. What do you think docc? Ciao

Thanks docc I havent done anything differently to my knowledge. I'm at 10% in attachments also. Ciao

Let me know when you find one Chuck, I have a lot of questions. Ciao

Well as Paul Minnaert informed me the map for an MGS-01 is identical to a V11 map. Go figure. Ciao

Fair way to go yet I think tuning wise. Ciao

It lives! Long day today. The last pieces showed up yesterday so I got them fitted and installed the tank ready to start the bike. I've been talking to Paul Minnaert about fuelling stuff which has been great and informative. Pauls still recovering from the Covid-19 although he didn't go into details he still has a bit to go.Many things affected and it takes some time. Apparently my 15M is an early one and there may be an issue with it's pressure sensor compared to later units which affects the maps you can run. I've also been getting great help from Gritman that was on here a few years ago and has done the same thing. He sent me his bin file which is a really nice of him and much appreciated. I need to see if my 15M and its differences will be ok with this bin. Hopefully it will be usable. Anyway to business. Paul and others reccon the std V11 map isnt a bad starting point anyway so I decided to just try and run it on the map in my ecu and confirm the mechanical stuff and then move onto the tuning. The bike fired up after a little cranking but was only running on the right cylinder which was a bit disappointing The other think I was keen to check was the oil pressure after my relief valve spring mod so I was watching it like a hawk ( I'd hooked up a remote gauge). The oil pressure was too high at 100 psi cold idle so I wasn't keen to to run it too much until I'd fixed that. The issue with the left cylinder was my bad. I had to extend the left injector harness and for the first time I used those new all in one solder and heat shrink joiners. In the middle of a fitted wiring harness you cant use a heat gun so I tried it with my soldering iron which is how I usually do heat shrink in these situations. I wasnt entirely happy with the outcome and went back to the tried and tested process for everything else however I put a meter across the joints and they had continuity so I left them. Bad mistake, feeding and flexing the left injector harness into place dislodged the wires. When I saw then the ends didn't even have any solder on them,DOH so back to the old way, problem solved. I then dropped the sump off and pulled the relief valve and fitted the original spring and shims and threw it back together and cranked it over with the plugs out to get some oil pressure which came right up anyway. Started it up and away it went. Cranking oil pressure cold was 50 psi as was cold idle. Once the oil got to 45degC the idle pressure dropped back to around 43 psi. I blipped the throttle a few times to 2750 rpm and got just under 60 psi with oil at 45 deg C. I was conscious of keeping the engine temp within reason as I didn't have any fans set up. So a bit of fiddling with the balance and idle screw and it sat there idling at 1100 rpm fairly happily. I haven't even checked the CO setting on the ecu so the next job is to hook up the Guzzi Diag and see what we have. No images as for some reason the site isn't happy with the formatting all of a sudden. Ciao

Just buy it its a really nice example. Worry about the finance later, you wont be sorry. Love the Ducati BTW. Ciao

Seems to me docc the idle value is just a ball park starting figure after the TPS setting so when you start the bike it's somewhere near the mark. It's not in my view a "tuning setting" just a starting reference point. Ciao

You may as well just change out the switch anyway as they dont cost much and be done with it. If the light still stays on then go looking for the issue. I asked about the time the light was on just in case you fired it up and only ran it for 4 or 5 seconds and shut it down. Its a slight possibility after sitting for a long time the pump lost its prime. Running it at low rpm for 10 or 15 seconds wont cause it damage and may be whats needed if its lost prime. Ciao

Yes respect, I'm just reading Churchills biography as we speak. Ciao

How long was it on for? Ciao

You remove the rockers John and run the dial indicator off the exhaust lifter. That way you can easily turn the cam with all the belts fitted and tensioned to align it with the crank position and then fit the vernia adjuster. Nice system. You cant adjust the inlet and exhaust timing independently. Unless someone has messed with your timing or its been assembled incorrectly at the factory or the belts have been installed a tooth out it should be fine. Ciao

Yes Chuck, it's a nice system on the Daytona engine and makes valve timing easy. I dont think timings Johns issue though. I'm not sure the Australia with the fairings is a great suburban low speed proposition, I think these things need to be a naked to be an all rounder as they naturally run hot. All Guzzi's struggle with overheating at low speeds even the Grisso's. I remember riding my 2 valver home through the suburbs when I thought it was failing a drive shaft uni so I avoided any more than about 40kph and left it in 2nd or third gear for about 3 or 4 klms. It got pretty hot which surprised me at the time. Ciao