Lucky Phil

Not sure docc, looking at the trumpet holes in the airbox it looks like they are a little too high for the inlet rubbers which would be Centy. It also has a side cover mount hole point above the inlet hole and I've seen Centy airboxes with and without this. Ciao

Why? Ciao

It's a Centy airbox. The V11 and Centy airboxes are very close to identical. The offset is a little different due to the differing engine location and the height of the holes for the inlet trumpet. The Centy holes are about 12mm higher. My V11 Daytona thread explains the differences with images. Ciao

Yea that might work. The RE is 2,000 and I think the BM's were around 1800 or so and you mostly downshift above those RPM's so thats when you get the hickup which I find aggravating. Means you need to roll the throttle on the downshifts. Ciao

The problem with the fuel cutoff on the closed throttle above a designated rpm is I've found that systems that do this don't respond sharply to a quick flick of the throttle on downshifts in that area which I find annoying. The RE does it and the K100's I owned were the same as was a K75 I rode. You can add some fuel in the RPM affected on closed throttle to stop it as does upping the CO setting as well which isn't necessarily ideal but gets it done. Ciao

I was wondering about the current draws Roy posted a while back in the link in one of doccs posts and decided to bench test some of my parts. Roys original figures in black and mine in Red Relay No 5 ECU Power relay The fuel pump draws about 4.5 amps unless the fuel filters blocked where it can draw about 9...... I got 1.8 amps unloaded then it started making noises because it was running dry and went to 3.5. Gave it a squirt of WD40 in the inlet and back to 1.85. Each injector will draw 1 amp. Ran an injector continuously and 0.1 amps draw. Each coil will draw 17 Amps. Only had a "Dual HT output" coil on hand from an MV Agusta and it was 15 amps. That all adds up to 22.5 Amps My total 17 amps with an unloaded pump and I'd imagine around 19 loaded. Don't know what all this means but that's the bench figures. Maybe the relay isn't under quite as much load as we think? Ciao

I think both of you have missed the point with regards to relay temps. Guzzi have designed them as a "seat warmer". A free option not previously advertised but revealed here after 20 years. Ciao

I've tried to imagine what was the objective here and origins of say 2 wrecked/failed bikes combined to make 1 rideable one and I'm at a loss. A blown up Centy with a 2 valve engine makes sense if you had a 2 valve engine but if you had a wrecked Lemans then everything damaged in a wreck would be needed to make this bike. Maybe a V11 Lemans with a blown up gearbox transposed to a Centy with a blown up engine, but why bother changing the forks and front end as there no real upgrade there. Maybe a blown Centy engine replaced by a cheap and available 2 valver and the rest is just a collection of ebay bits. It's wrong to advertise it as a Le Mans though. Ciao

Not sure about that. They didn't have the grey painted gearbox and bevel box, thats a Centauro/Datona RS thing. Ciao

You just can't fit a 5 speed to a 6 speed frame. The offset is wrong and the mounts are different, the swingarm wont work. Lots of stuff. Ciao

With Guzzidiag and Tunerpro you can do everything and you don't even need to be smart. Ask me how I know. Ciao

You are correct but I'm not following your point.? A Centauro is a 5 speed. You start with a Centy and bolt the rest to that. My bike is a V11 Sport with a Centauro/Daytona engine so 6 speed, 8 valve V11 Sport. OR you can go the other way and have a 5 speed 8 valve "V11 Sport" starting with a Centauro and adapting the V11 Sport tank and bodywork. Or you can start with a Centauro and fit a 2 valve engine and V11 Sport tank and bodywork and front end. This things a bit of a bastard. Short tank and Lemans bodywork as well. Ciao

That looks like a Centauro base and V11 Lemans bodywork, seat subframe, front end and engine. The grey painted gearbox is the giveaway. The other option is a Daytona RS base but that seems less likely. Ciao

They come up nice in the Ultrasonic cleaner. Ciao

Nice work Pete. Ciao

Thanks docc. I went back and re read the relay stuff including the starter relay wiring differences. I have enough Omrons to last me as I bought a batch 4 or 5 years ago. The Royal Enfield also uses the same relay but I'm not sure of the current rating it requires so I'll look into that and save the Omrons for the v11. I guess like most things though the "rated capacity" is always set conservatively, like "proof load" and "ultimate load" in mechanical stuff so maybe that's what the Guzzi #5 relay is counting on. What was the original bosch relay rated to? Ciao

Yes I saw that as well so we need the form C then? I'm probably reading what "I want to read" Ciao

I was looking at this in my attachment. Ciao

relay info.pdf Have a look docc and see if I'm misled Ciao

The Panasonic CM series relays are 20/35 rated for continuous/switching. Is this what you're referencing docc? Why can't we use the Panasonics? Are they inferior in some way? Ciao

You have now Roy. I like a simple lazy workshop life. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/183730457624?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=183730457624&targetid=1278276341267&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071303&poi=&campaignid=10101784991&mkgroupid=131275693908&rlsatarget=pla-1278276341267&abcId=9300367&merchantid=116301090&gclid=Cj0KCQjw18WKBhCUARIsAFiW7JzGlavIc2B-pb2Lz8lIs23seejr9ACYiUarK8n0VDVTzG8QvO4d1JAaArzYEALw_wcB Ciao

Yes docc I've been in the position of riding to the next town auto parts store to buy another plug for a friends Guzzi after a crash. Ciao

If you upload to your album the size is irrelevant. I never resize when using the way I described. Don't open the image from your album just "copy image" from the album and paste in your post. I open a separate browser for the "copy image" and then switch browsers to the post browser and paste. Ciao

Load images into your album Pete then just "copy image" from there and paste into your post. Thats what I do. Ciao

The first aircraft I can ever remember seeing was a Bristol Freighter. My grandfather who was an aircraft engineer also took me to the airport when I was 3 years old. We were on the tarmac and close up to it. Not sure why we were there, I'm sure it wasn't just so I could see an aeroplane. The sleeve valve engines had less moving parts than a poppet valve engine as I recall. Interestingly I remember a warning that you should never get amateurs to pull a radial through before starting, it takes a knowledgeable experienced person/people to tell the difference between normal compression rise and a hydrolocked cylinder and it's quite possible and not uncommon to pull them through the lock and bend a rod. Better to bump it through on the starter and let the starter clutch protect the engine. The other big no, no is when a lock is detected never ever rotate the engine backwards thinking you'll clear it that way. It just dumps the oil back into the inlet and bends the rod or blows the cylinder off when it fires on the other cylinders on the start. If it's got a lock then it's tools out and pull the plugs and drain the lower cylinders. Ciao