Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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1 hour ago, Cabernet said:
The turn buckle connecting rod in the linkage, which adjusts the lever position.
It's generally called a "rod end bearing" or spherical rod end bearing.
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1 hour ago, Cabernet said:
It was cheaper than getting a split hose.
For obvious reasons.
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After the short frame bikes they got fat, porky, and ponderous. Real men with big balls ride the "short frame". Old codgers tend to go for the fat lardy long frame version.
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16 minutes ago, Colorobo said:
So what is the best way to bleed off pressure?
Well some claim you can pull the pump fuse and start the engine on the residual pressure to bleed it off. Personally I just loosen off the regulator hose with a rag around the joint. Even with 3 bar pressure you get SFA out of it. There's only maybe 100ml in the hose between the pump and the reg and as we know from school science with an uncompressible liquid you only need a miniscule reduction in the volume to dump the pressure.
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2 hours ago, Bob LeClair said:
I did replace all the rubber boots but I haven't checked the balance screws yet. Weekend project.
Well of course the other suggestions are valid but it depends on when you checked the head temps. The only real way is on the move riding. As soon as you stop other variable come into play. My bike also runs a little different temp one side to another but its also in the nature of the engine architecture. That's why the right cylinder fuel map is different to the left which is the base map and the right has corrections based on the left. The right cylinder's header pipe and intake are different lengths compared to the left due to the cylinder offset due to side by side rods. You can of course adjust the right cylinder offset via Tunerpro. Here's the offset map for a std V11 Sport map MY2000 showing the different injector pulse times compared to the Left cylinder.
Left cylinder base map.
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1 minute ago, footgoose said:
Absolutely. For the sheer horsepower and firepower the P47 was clearly superior.
That's not their main advantage, their main advantage was their ability to take a lot of damage and still keep flying and pilot protection. The big air cooled turbocharged radial was much better at taking hits than the vulnerable liquid cooled Mustang Spitfire etc.
Here's an interesting account by Robert S Johnson of an encounter with an FW190
https://realhistory.co/2018/05/23/robert-s-johnson-p47-thunderbolt/
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1 hour ago, footgoose said:
the P38 and the F4U... easily the most beautiful aircraft from the era. followed by the Spitfire and Messerschmidt BF109
For beauty I'd fly the Griffon Spitfire but if I actually wanted the best chance of surviving WW2 as a fighter pilot it would have been the P47 Thunderbolt hands down.
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34 minutes ago, guzzler said:
Mate.
It's even worse with crap road surface,roadworks every couple of kays,several hundred coaches full of tourists,Mr and Mrs with the 2.4 and caravan, impatient drivers and that's before you get to Lorne and one long gridlock nearly to the outskirts of Geelong!!
FFS, I read a while later they were complaining about the decline of tourists on the GOR !!!
If that was a quiet day then definitely NEVER ****** AGAIN.
I've ridden it many times in the past when you could enjoy it but reckon that's it for me.
Cheers Guzzler
Ps you're right though,Victoria has plenty more interesting roads !!
The whole Southern part of the state is getting this way now. Try taking a drive in the Yarra Vally these days. I'm a local and up until a few years ago you could go for a quiet Sunday ride into Yarra Valley and stop at a winery for a nice lunch and glass of wine no worries. Now you need to book a week in advance no matter where you go at any time of the year and the traffic is like peak hour in the city. Nothing like sitting in a 1 klm long traffic jam on a country road in the middle of grazing land on a Sunday morning at a small intersection that until 5 years ago saw about 20 cars a day.
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24 minutes ago, guzzler said:
G'day Tom
Yep, it was Feb 2020 so summer.
We ran into weird weather though.It was cool and overcast when we set off on the Saturday and warm by the time we got to the Sorrento -Queenscliff ferry.
Then due to a couple of road closures had to drone down the highway for 50 or so K's, by this time the temp was in the 30's ( c ) which lead to great run through the rain forest that is the Otway ranges.However as we gained altitude in the ranges, temp dropped and we ran into rain!
Once we dropped back down to the coast, temp in the mid-high 30's but after a wee refreshment stop in Port Campbell it was a short run to the Boggy Creek pub and several more refreshments!
Warm again on the Sunday but same again once we hit the rainforest of the Otways, temp dropped quite a bit and rain was heavier than previous day.It was quite challenging with bloody tree bark all over the road in places and I swear I will NEVER do the Great Ocean Road again on a weekend! Traffic stupid and a couple of accidents didn't help.Jeez if we were in a car we'd still be trying to get home.
When we got to the ferry this time grabbed a pie and a coffee and chatted with a few more riders in the hold by the bikes.It's only a 40 or so minute trip across the bay but saves a lot of freeway crap through the city.
Then about an hour or so in the late afternoon and cool weather we were home again.
A bloody great weekend was had by all. I think I heard that they served about 70 meals on Sat. night!It was pretty raucous in the dining room ha ha.
Cheers Guzzler
Ps 2021 was cancelled originally due to covid but then on again a few weeks later but it threw plans into chaos so couldn't go.
Pps I have a few more photos, ha ha taken the morning after as well ( we all just got set up and straight to the bar/deck after arriving so none from Sat night ) which I might try and post if I figure out how to post multiple shots on one post.
One of the most overrated rides/drives in the country in my view.
Ciao
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26 minutes ago, Kane said:
Hi folks, I am curious what your thoughts are on high mileage bikes. I have an opportunity to acquire a 1978 T3 with 186,000 miles on it. The bike has sat for at least a few years since it’s previous owner passed away, so I would be taking it on faith before changing the fluids and gas and sorting the battery and carbs. The good news is the seller is a good guy, the bike is a one owner bike who apparently was meticulous and caring for his bikes, the bike is original and complete and looks good for a bike that’s been sitting getting dirty for a few years, and I can afford this one. I don’t doubt the claim that the bike ran fine before being put away, but my concern is the 186,000 miles on it. Even with a rebuild or overhaul, can a bike with that much ever be put to ride and feel like a fresher bike?
It's a lot of miles and 20 years ago I wouldn't have given it a second thought when Guzzi spares were plentiful and cheap but these days I don't know. If you can buy it and it runs ok and you don't want to put any real miles on it then sure. But if you want to get it back to being really nice and ready for another 100K miles then it's a costly and somewhat painful endeavour. Cant remember if the T3 had the chrome bores or not. The original T certainly did as I bought a new set in England in the mid 80's for my BIL's bike. My other Brother in Law (his brother) actually owned a T3 as it happens.
If it has Chrome bores then they need to be replaced asap.
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8 minutes ago, LowRyter said:
I never owned one but one my dad's friends did (3000 Mk iii). It was 2+2 so there was a little bench seat in the back. The car would wind out pretty good and had a little kick to it to be fast. His had wire wheels and when going into high double digits it would buck and shake.
A few years ago I was talking to fellow that restored a big Healey (4 cyl) and said the same thing about the wire wheels.
Ok well everybody seems to have a AH3000 story so here goes mine. I was filling my car up at the servo about 6 weeks ago and there was one filling up there also. As I walked out from paying it's owner was going in to pay. "Nice Healy" I said, a 3000 is that right. Yep and thanks he said and kept on walking. A metallic powder blue it was. That's all I've got.
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1 hour ago, docc said:
Heh, well, so I thought. Maybe the old thumper will become my sons' nostalgia.
All my "nostalgia" goes back to 60s to early 70s "muscle cars." Dear God, their brakes and suspension were awful. My brother (briefly owned) an Austin-Healey 3000/MkIII that set the motorhead hooks in me forever. Back in those days, I thought the motorcycle guys were complete nutters and crazies. (Hey, now I "resemble" that remark!
)
Living in Bavaria as wee lad, I grew up thinking the BMW opposed-twin would be the ultimate. Then, one evening while in college, a friend started up his white, pin-striped loop-frame Guzzi; maybe an Ambassador, IDK. My other nutter-crazy motorcycle buddy was there - he could ride a wheelie on his Kawi triple clear to the ferrkin' moon, but it was a loud-crazed-violent affair.
In the apartment complex parking lot, the fellow lofted the Ambo like a dance with an Angel. It was so elegant and effortless!
There is the matter of taking the bait, but I swallowed the hook.
Looks like I'm the only one who hasn't owned one of these:)
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14.73 would be to high for an PC545 I think. Whats the charge rate with the revs up?
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1 hour ago, docc said:
Is it still nostalgia if your first bike is on the lift with the motor at a mate's for a rebuild?
No docc it's not. That's just another possible catastrophe:) Nostalgia...a sentimental longing or wistful affection for a period in the past. I sometimes like the period but try and separate that from the "engineering" The engineering is "of it's time" and locked there forever. Hard to get too sentimental over the mechanical abominatios from the past I've had to engineer my way around at times. I see old bikes getting around these days and they get my attention and I like the fact that people still restore and fettle them, just glad it's not me is all.
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Too much nostalgia with regards to vehicles. Problem is the markets so distorted these days esp the US market now the middle class has all but evaporated. The market seems to be driven not by wealthy people as it used to be with the sacrificing middle classes in with a chance but by the, not just wealthy, but the obscenely wealthy setting the bar.
I view old vehicles as something "of their time" and ignore the silly money they attract these days. A modern motorcycle or car is such a superior piece of engineering why would you spend silly money buying what is by todays standards a piece of shit. Seriously? Why would you spend a $100,000 or more on a "Green frame" Ducati from 72 when for less money you could buy yourself a Modern Classic Ducati like a Panagale Superleggera that will eventually appreciate just as much in the future and is a million times better piece of motorcycle engineering to start with. Same with cars pretty much, which over here the self managed superannuation have driven the price of frankly horrible old 4 door V8 sedans from the 70's through the roof. Senseless.
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1 minute ago, bsanorton said:
Yupper. A bad battery wouldn't interfere with the reading correct
Nope
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12 minutes ago, bsanorton said:
Went out for a sunset ride with my buddy tonight. 15 minutes into it the V11 starting to stumble and as I pulled over died. No warning lights. Would not even click when hitting the starter button. After a few minutes it started to click when trying to start like the battery was trying to regenerate. Trailered her home and got 10.8 volts from the battery. Have the Odyssey battery charging and now she slowly turns over. So you know I was having problems with my Odyssey battery. Today it read 12.8 before heading out. The date on the battery is June 2020. Should be good. I'm suspecting a charging issue. PO said the voltage regulator and alternator was replaced. So where do i start? When running the reading on battery was not above 12, might have even been 11.8. Do I start with a new battery or go straight to the charging system? Did i buy a bike with gremlins, oy!!!!
You start with getting the engine running and putting a multi-meter on the battery terminals and seeing if you get around 13.8 to 14.2 volts when the engine is revved to say 2500 rpm.
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1 hour ago, NicoNZ said:
Loaded the Meinolf 93_6 map. Runs great now.
So then I thought I would attack the pipes to start the process of cleaning them up, removing dents etc. Interesting that it looked like one had already been opened and this is what I found inside.......no packing at all.
The other outlet end is very difficult to remove. It might have to stay there while I remove the dents which will make it a little bit harder.
I wouldn't recommend that for a few reasons. Firstly it will make dressing out the damage more difficult but more importantly it makes it impossible to wrap the perforated tube with woven glass/cloth which you need to do when re packing. It's not a good idea to just stuff glass wool down the can without the woven glass around the perforated section because the wool will blow out faster and the tiny loose wool fibres get sucked back into the cylinder on the overrun at the right revs. Not that it's going to do any real damage but best to avaoid that.
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9 minutes ago, docc said:
I remember relieving a ridge on my original seat pan because it was cutting the battery strap. I bought a second hand seat later and the PO had cut out the entire battery area to the exposed foam (makes the seat pan pretty flimsy).
My solution to the seat pressing the battery was to attach the battery basket to the bottom of the subframe at the front, gaining maybe 3mm to 5mm.
Good idea docc, might try that next time I have the battery out.
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57 minutes ago, Chuck said:
I'm pretty careful about that kind of stuff.. but I went out and got my modeling clay. Unfortunately, it's gone missing
but it *appears* to have plenty of clearance. Plastic or not, pressure on those posts would not be a good thing..
Ok thanks Chuck. I was very surprised at how tight the original base was on my bike. I made a simple aluminium extension strap so the runner battery strap wasn't pulled so tight and that wouldn't allow the seat to clip down because the metal ring on the rubber strap now sat flat on the battery top, sheez. I tried my later seat and it definitly has more under seat clearance to things and a simpler cleaner detail design.
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9 hours ago, Chuck said:
That would be pretty exciting..
Well not really, the base is plastic. It's a very tight fit the base clearance on these things esp the first version of the seat on the early bikes. Any contact marks on the seat base? I might consider this mod myself if the clearance is there.
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13 hours ago, Chuck said:
I saw some pure copper commemorative coins about the size of a silver dollar for a dollar. Thought, "hmmm, I'm tired of fighting those stupid connections.. made a couple of angled brackets. Cheap. (Guzzi content)
Do the connectors/cap screws contact the seat base Chuck?
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7 hours ago, Tinus89 said:
I have, on mine. After changing the fuel filter, wanted to remove the tank again (after priming the setup a bit) for some other work. The fountain of fuel (probably aided by an air pocket in the fuel filter) was quite considerable, and unexpected after sitting for about 60min between priming and tank removal.
Ok. but was it a a pressure spray of fuel under 45psi or a gush of fuel from the line draining? you always get a stream of fuel when you pull the reg hose and depending on circumstances its either a constant trickle for some times or if its got air behind it a bit more of a flow situation.
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8 minutes ago, Rolf Halvorsen said:
Pete
Then I can agree.
This locking design is not the best I have seen around. But the real reason for one of the locking tabs to break loose - and make trouble elsewere - is that when you apply some "high" torque on the bearing locking nut - then you will apply some "high" friction on the lockwasher.
In my case it was the locking tab inside of the lockwasher that had broken loose - and sometime later made trouble.
Whenever I have this kind of lockwasher - then I apply some grease on it to reduce the friction from the nut. This friction reducing method is not mentioned anywhere which I have seen.
Rolf
I personally use moly grease here. The rational for locking washers with tabs isn't to prevent the loss of torque on the nut it's to retain the nut and stop a total catastrophe until the issue is isolated and that's often through routine maintenance checks. They are old and somewhat unreliable technology. Personally I think Loctite is a far better way to go on most stuff like this with the lock washer as the backup. I've seen the internal tab on the lock washer broken or partially broken many times during the torquing up but you tend not to notice unless you put a witness mark on the lock washer and the housing when you torque up. That way you can see if the internal tab has deformed or broken.
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One cylinder hotter than the other
in Technical Topics
Posted
I take a reading straight off the header pipes while it's idling. Don't really know why, or what real good it does just convenience. If I'm looking for engine temp to do the CO adjustment I take it off the area near the engine temp sensor.
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