Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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25 minutes ago, Grim said:
Thanks, is this the mount that sit on an axle through the bottom/rear of the gearbox? It really look like it's coming from the top, parallel with the back of the starter.
Is there another crack prone mount further up the gearbox?
The top transmission mount on both sides where the trans connects to the frame. Look at my V11/Daytona thread. I did a comprehensive repair in that thread with lots of images and explanations.
Ciao
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Well although you don't believe it's gearbox oil if you don't get a result with the simple stuff dont discount a cracked gearbox mount when you've exhausted all the other simple possibilities.
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21 minutes ago, pete roper said:
An even better idea would be to do as was done on the CARC bikes and replace the impossible to get at bleed nipple on the slave cylinder with a hose to a remote bleed nipple up under the seat somewhere. It's a brilliant system. I can't for the life of me see how they overlooked it on the V11's.
That CARC bleeder mod was a 30 year get to production affair Pete. Guzzi don't rush this stuff you know, got the be thorough in the R&D
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7 minutes ago, po18guy said:
True enough. Well, stuck as we are, this seemed the most expedient solution. But, one wonders, why have a bleeder on the slave at all? It's an all uphill system. Why not place the line in the bleeder's location and simply bleed at the master, where the air will migrate in any event? They must have a variation on the KISS principle: KICS - keep it complicated, stupid!
Umm, haven't you answered your own question with the system operation returning to normal bleeding the slave bleeder after the master bleeder.
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25 minutes ago, docc said:
I had forgotten about the black over silver V11 Sport "TT." Not sure the history of how that was produced.
Even then, this one has quite a lot of thoughtful additions. Very nice.
Remember, @Bob Maynard, we have a place to post your FJ exploits and stay in touch!
Everything non-Guzzi and Redneck trashtalk
Wasn't there a black and silver version created by a US dealer and called something forgettable back in the day. Wasn't a "factory" release but a US local individualised and locally marketed thing. One dealer only Marketed I mean.
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12 hours ago, docc said:
That is a very pretty thing!
(Seems you might consider loosening the connection of the oil return line to the sump and rotate it away from the contact with the exhaust and re-tighten to hold it closer to the gearbox.)
Yes and soon.
Ciao
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2 hours ago, Chuck said:
FWIW, back when I used to work on Centauros for guys that couldn't find a dealer to do it,
I found one sensor that had actually been milled by the flywheel.
Still worked.
My Centauro engine had been contacting the sensor as well when I bought it. Don't know if it was affecting running but it deposits metal in the oil.
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15 minutes ago, Pressureangle said:
2 things here- First, it's been that way for ~15k miles and there's no evidence of contact.
Second, my measurement is imperfect. I used a feeler gauge, and the tip of the sensor is not perfectly flat so the 'sensor' part is slightly retracted from the edges. Also, I didn't have the gear on so there's some possibility that the trigger was not in perfect alignment as it is tightened.
I *think* I checked it when I replaced the sensor when I first got the bike by the normal 'remove the spacer and test' method, but I don't recall distinctly. I'm quite familiar with trigger and wheel inductive sensors; the spec for all of them is usually .025" plus or minus .005". The signal strength decreases by the square of the distance, so closer is better; the clearance is not for signal but rather for imprecision in tolerance such as out of round or crank flex, or in the case of wheel speed sensors, debris collection. So yes there would be a concern if it was a new install, but proof's in the pudding and I'd worry more about causing some running change than suddenly contacting the trigger.
But now you've made me overthink it. Who sells shims?HMB Guzzi, Stein Dinse.
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5 hours ago, Pressureangle said:
Rather than start a new thread, I'll just append to this one.
I've installed my Caruso gears, I'll add a sound file if I can figure out how to do that after it's on the ground.
I was surprised at how much sludge was in the bottom of the front chaincase. I'm now installing my own Roper Plate, we'll see what the bottom of the pan looks like.
Also, I discovered that my cam sensor clearance is...frighteningly close. .002" or so, but with zero witness marks on the sensor after 15k miles I'll not touch it.Whoopsy- imagine my surprise when I actually got the centerpunch and drill straight enough to save the original threads.
I wouldn't leave it with 0.002" clearance myself. Or is that 0.020".
Ciao
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5 hours ago, swooshdave said:
It looks like the correct description is:
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=5546
SIDE STAND DEPLOYMENT LOOP
Almost $30.
Am I correct these break a lot?
It wouldn't be hard to design something way better.
3D print up some dies and press a few.
This guy is impressive.
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3 hours ago, hammershaug said:
Thanks, @docc
The 300 km trip back home from Stryn is by far the longest, but not the only time I've ridden «Queenie Greeeeenie». I had some nice trips - alone and with friends - but not very far from home.
My last trip was on 21st September 2019. A beautiful day! The sun was shining and almost no traffic:
I posted this when I got home:
(Later I discovered the fuel sensor cables were cut…)
Fast forward. Had my first ride today! A short ride, because the charging lamp is still on. I measure 12,6VDC on the battery terminals with ignition off and 12,4V with the ignition on. With engine running it rises quickly to 14,2V when opening the throttle a bit.
Could it still be the voltage rectifier, the battery, or both?
Is this the one I need?:
[Direct Regulator Rectifier V11 Naked Moto Guzzi](https://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/2006-moto-guzzi-v11-naked-regulator-rectifier-direct)I also noticed the oil lamp doesn't light up when ignition is on. I guess it should do that. Coincident?
And you're still riding it!
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Got to be happy with that.
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I saw in the initial images the throttle plates looked a little too far open to me but I thought it may just be the perspective. My previous recommendation was to establish that the butterflies were completely closed and both sides were baseline synced together as a starting point. You can then at least start the engine and keep it running on the throttle without it running away until you can set the idle roughly. When you get the idle roughly correct on the idle screw the butterflies will be slightly away from fully closed on the TB bores, naturally. Then you can do a proper balance and tune. I now see the OP is asking about the white linkage knob and whether its the idle adjustment and know we are in a bit of trouble. As docc says, follow the decent tune-up thread.
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I'd wind out the l/h TB idle screw until it has clearance ( the r/h should be clear already if one is indeed fitted) then disconnect the linkage and make sure both throttle plates are bottoming out inside the throttle bodies. You should adjust the linkage so when both throttle plates are bottomed in the bodies the small post on the end of the linkage aligns perfectly with the bush on the l/h linkage, then refit it. Wind the idle stop screw on the l/h side until it just touches the linkage and give it half a turn. This will guarantee the throttles are closing and then do a balance and idle adjustment. When you start it up it wont idle but you can adjust the idle stop screw until it does and you're in the ball park.
Check the fast idle cam first.
Ciao
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14 minutes ago, Guzzimax said:
No, I didn’t remove them from the cross over support, I left them attached to that, I removed and replaced each rubber intake hose once I’d removed the cross over assembly by releasing the intake hose clamps
Ok so you didn't remove the throttle bodies from the bike, just the engine?
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19 minutes ago, Guzzimax said:
I’ll recheck the fast idle cam tomorrow
How did you remove the throttle bodies, separate them from cross over supports and remove individually?
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Have you checked the fast idle cam is clear of the throttle mechanism?
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6 hours ago, kantmakm said:
I am refinishing the valve covers on my v11 sport. After stripping the 'anodized' paint I can see that there are 2 additional thin layers between the paint and the cast aluminum. There's what appears to be shiny metal plating (leafing?!?), then a brownish/yellowish layer. I'm wondering if anyone knows what these are? I had a small dent and hairline crack in one of the covers and I did sand off those layers to make the repair. I'm wondering about whether to leave them and whether to use a self-etching primer before re-painting them.
Probably a 3 part paint finish, base coat, translucent colour coat and top coat. If you strip them to bare metal, bead blast them and paint with dedicated engine enamel within 2 or 3 days you wont need to etch prime or prime them in any way.
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Not sure docc I haven't ridden one but at something like less than 2/3 the price of the Guzzi and a much simpler device it has its advantages. Another factor is the cost of parts. Don't like the colour of the tank you chose? It's a $450 au ( $300usd) problem cause that's what a new painted tank costs. Same for everything, handlebars switch gear footpegs seats, all dirt cheap compared to what we are typically used to paying esp for Italian parts. It's the first bike I've ever comprehensively insured at $318aud /year full replacement for 2 years for a new bike. 3 years unlimited klm warranty and 3 years road side assist from the manufacturer as well. Bargain, plus it looks way better than a V7111 for my tastes as well. I spent 3 months trying to convince a good mate to sell his Ducati 750 Sport (2002) to buy one and ended up convincing myself instead, LOL.
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8 minutes ago, guzzler said:
That looks really good mate!
I've got a good mate over in Perth that keeps going on about getting back into bikes with one of these!!
Wouldn't mind one myself for meandering round the English style backroads out here!
Reckon it would be about perfect for that with a nice set of pipes as you mention.
Hope you enjoy it!
Cheers Guzzler
Yep, it's perfect for all those applications, esp for your getting back into riding.
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9 hours ago, Chuck said:
RE has it going on. If I were in the market..
It's an amazing motorcycle for the money Chuck. The areas where they have obviously gone for the utilitarian to keep the costs down are the stuff that's relatively easy and cheap to upgrade, like the levers, handlebars, tyres, indicators, mirrors etc. The kind of stuff most people customise anyway. A nice set of open mufflers will give it the Ducati sound at some point.
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5 hours ago, 80CX100 said:
Hey Phil congrats on the new bike, very sweet classic lines, I know you've been thinking about it, glad to see you pull the trigger..
When I first got my California Vintage, I was throwing it around back country curves, it was disappointing.
Other than change shock settings, the only thing I changed was my mindset and I began riding it for the relaxing and enjoyable bike that it is. It's my favorite old dependable ride in the herd now, like a comfortable pair of slippers.
Wishing you many safe miles, on your new relaxing and enjoyable ride
Thanks for the kind thoughts. You're right about the mindset, most everything I have is designed to go fast and that's fine but when I want to just go out for a short ride with my wife to brunch or a quiet coffee I don't need or want that. Riding gear is another area I need to review as well for these times. Race type clothing and protection is what I've always worn but for the urban casual stuff there are now more relaxed yet still protective options. It's about just being able to jump on the bike with a minimum of fuss and go for ride. No hurry, no stress, no worries:)
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3 minutes ago, fotoguzzi said:
Did your wife get a new motorcycle?
In a manner of speaking. It's our sensible, comfortable, practical bike for trips to the local Cafes, restaurants and wineries. She doesn't ride herself but likes getting on the pillion.
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Air box fitment
in Technical Topics
Posted
Too many numbers for a Guzzi part. Both models are 01114031. The frame was lengthened just behind the steering head so the airbox is unaffected.
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