Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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11 minutes ago, Paradiso said:
The clutch pushrod on the 6 speed is wider than on the 5 speed. Hence the requirement to use the original button/cup. I rode my Tenni with the single plate and the twin plate. While the 'feel' of the single plate was preferable, there's not a lot in it.
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
Turning down the end of the pushrod is a 2 minute job. It's not the feel of engagement I'm interested in it's the better shifting and faster engine response. The Guzzi now feels more "Ducati" in the response to the throttle which is only a better thing. You don't need to roll the throttle anymore during a downshift, just flick it and the engine responds immediately. Makes downshifts far better and also much better on the upshifts as well.
Ciao
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6 minutes ago, Paradiso said:
I priced it. I didn't buy it. I got a 2nd hand one myself. As has been discussed in previous posts, the RAM unit wasn't available for the 6 speed-though Scud did manage to source one. It wasn't available for a long while, though it may be now. I think it is possible to make the 5 speed RAM unit fit using the original single flywheel clutch centre and centre 'button' (the part the pushrod contacts). At the time Pete Roper also warned that RAM unit might wear quickly.
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RAM units will fit either bike 5 or 6 speed, the only difference being the gearbox input drive spline. It's my belief you can easily modify the twin plate input spline to suit the 6 speeder single plate anyway. The clutch high wear issue was dealt with years ago and was primarily an issue with the std Guzzi plate. I think from memory Pete had a RAM unit in a race bike that wore quickly but thats a race bike. The modern RAM clutches are now light weigh units with a steel flywheel. After you've used an Alloy RAM clutch it would be hard to go back to the Guzzi twin plate boat anchor for me. Every aspect of engine and gearbox performance is far superior with the lighter clutch.
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1 hour ago, ScuRoo said:
https://m.facebook.com/guareschimoto/videos/1022466584936905/
This is the music!
Still the benchmark Colaninno’s recent announcement has to exceed - anything less would put lie to the claims of ‘extraordinary...’
I don't quite understand this. Do you mean any bike Guzzi come up with needs to better the Guareschi bike? If so then thats not a valid position. Anyone with the fabrication skills can come up with a motorcycle that is basically a "track day" bike only. It's doesn't need to meet any road bike criteria of any kind whatsoever and on top of that this particular bike with it's mile long wheelbase, shaft drive and weight would get it's arse handed to it in a competitive race track situation by a decent rider. If you like this sort of narrow focus bike, fair enough but it can't be compared to a bike that needs to meet road regulations, emission regulations and be fit for mass production and sale to the general public. The Guareschi bike also uses an old air/oil cooled engine that won't pass euro5 emission regs. In other words this bike is pretty much a show pony for a very narrow motorcycle niche market.
The real genius in motorcycle sports bike design is designing a package that can be cutting edge on a race track and yet saleable and street rideable to the average road rider even if he can't use anything like it's full potential. In other words the devils in the detail as usual.
The modern hyper sports bike is an amazing piece of engineering.
Ciao
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2 hours ago, Paradiso said:
It's the £150 one that I meant. The expensive stuff is there. I priced up new parts when I needed to replace mine and it was close to £2000. The flywheel alone was close to £1000 IIRC.
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Why wouldn't you use a new RAM unit at around $750US. Two thousand British pounds is around $3700AUD. I'd part the bike out before I paid that sort of money.
Ciao
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I only bought it for the Manual ability. I have "nanny" chargers that won't charge a battery if it's below about 10.5 volts which are annoying. Use this one on "manual" to get them back up to a decent state of charge then switch it to "auto" seems to work OK. Not sure about how or if the Lithium setting works on this charger as they require a constant amperage and variable voltage.
Ciao
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16 minutes ago, docc said:
Very timely question (for which I have no answer). Chatting with another member, we are having difficulty finding a "manual" charger that will actually provide a true 6+ amps to significantly charge the PC545 Odyssey when it falls below the 12.65v charge threshold. Seems that these "manual" chargers taper the current (amperage) based upon >some algorithm<.
Giving the Odyssey "the full beans" remains elusive . . .
I recently bought this "cheapy" off ebay ( around $35AU so about 2 cents US) specifically because it had a "manual" setting. It's brought the Odyssey back up to full charge from 5 volts but the capacity seems poor. Now on manual it will punch 16 volts into it and just a few amps so I'm not using the manual mode anymore. I'm trying to drop the voltage down with a load and hit it again.
It supposedly does Lithium Iron batteries as well. HMM not so sure about that.
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A question for those more electrically inclined than I. My Odyssey battery has dropped it's bundle again I think due to inactivity and a faulty Reg. I noticed when I pulled it to install the Daytona engine it had been leaking a small amount of fluid. This also happened with the previous one as well and I thought I had solved the apparent overcharging with modifying the wiring to the headlight to prevent the typical voltage drop and the false voltage sensing experienced by the Reg. Apparently not it seems so I fitted the new ELE std wiring REG I already had and cleaned up the battery and installed it and it all seemed good. Looked at the battery voltage yesterday and it was 5 volts. I'll try and recover it per this thread and use it as a garage battery and buy a new one.
So the question is when I do that i'll also try and buy an approved odyssey charger as well. I have an ac to ac step down adaptor I've been using on hand tool battery charges for years and it's rated as follows
Input AC 240Volts 50/60 Hz
Output AC 120 Volts 50/60 Hz
Power 500VA
I figure that this unit can support a 12 volt output 110V input USA charger and support around 41 amps current draw. Is this correct? Or am I mis calculating? Just confirming so I can look at the possibility of buying an approved Odyssey charger from the states.
Ciao
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Often especially for the round wire a small jewellers screwdriver is best or a pick with a similar flat end. A round pick on a round wire end doesn't work well although a pick or driver with a flat end on a round wire works much better.
Ciao
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47 minutes ago, docc said:
This is the image from Post#1 that SoCalKevin posted a few years ago of our V11 fork seal retention. I am changing my original fork seals, so am trying to prepare for the event. I am no > Seal Whisperer < . . .
I've dealt with these wire springs clips before, and recall there is nowhere to get a purchase in them save for one of the ends. I found the video unhelpful (except that YooToob popped up some rockin' Beth Hart as a tease.)
So, since we're not actually trying to work on whatever is in that video (like auto transmission components or whatever), but actually the V11 fork seals: Does the retention ring have to be "compressed as much as possible" before clearing the groove, or can it be "chased" out of the groove once one end gets teased free?
Use a small pick (preferably brass) to pull the end of the wire out of the groove and with these you can carefully allow them to unwind out of the groove. Best if you can grab the end with a pair of needle nose pliers and guide it out as often the ends are just cut off and have a sharp edge which can scratch the alloy housing if not held clear. Or you can just slip a feeler gauge in there on the end to protect the housing as you uncoil it out of the groove. Hold the leg securely though and initially stick some masking tape over half the opening in case the initial action flicks it out.
If its a flat section clip its a lot more difficult. Once you have one end out of the groove use a small jewellers drive and some protection on the alloy to gradually extract it . Bit like removing a tire, compress, wedge, compress, wedge. Usually by the time its half way out it can be released. Or once one end is out you can sometimes grab it with needle nose pliers and pull the end enough to get the ring to compress and feed it out. It has to be a fairly weak clip for this though.
Ciao
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8 hours ago, docc said:
What would be your approach to this one, @Lucky Phil?
I can't see the details doc but it looks like a wire not a circlip? In the video removing a large Circlip that way is just horrible. You almost certainly distort the clip so it cant be re used and at the same time bur up the edges of the groove it seats in. Big clips like that are tricky to deal with but here's a tip. The component in the video can be held down on the bench with a pair of simple padded QR carpenters clamps so you aren't chasing the thing all over the bench while dealing with the Circlip. Or you can use another methodology. I would have used a pair of straight pliers and when you get a portion of the clip out you just slide a loose feeler gauge down the side of the clip to hold it out of the groove and repeat if you need to. The clip needs to be compressed as much as possible so it clears the entire groove and then you extract it. Its often not that easy but a little patience and technique and you can definitely do it with more skill and finesse than that bloke. I'm honestly amazed at the level of skill and workmanship people put on the net for the world to see and not be embarrassed. Skill levels and standards out there are VERY low.
Ciao
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On 7/19/2018 at 9:56 AM, SoCal Kevin said:
Hi Docc, here is the YouTube video that conceptually shows how to remove this type of clip. Hopefully this will save someone else some time in searching... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2CicHXwvws
Yes a video on how to NOT remove a Circlip.
Ciao
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3 hours ago, footgoose said:
the standard model V11 clutch assembly on most models is a dual plate clutch with a steel flywheel.
the factory Guzzi V11 "lightened" clutch assy on special models is a single plate clutch with an aluminum flywheel. The problem is with the alm flywheel. It isn't strong enough to handle stress. It can (and should) be replaced with the standard dual plate/steel assembly or an aftermarket lightened steel assembly.
Or a RAM unit.
Ciao
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2 minutes ago, orangem2 said:
2004 cafe sport
Added ground wire to regulator casing
Installed some swank Rizoma fluid resevoirs
Removed air box and installed aluminum velocity stacks with K&N filter.
Found ground stud on case loose
Replaced broken fast idle cable
Recrimped start circuit bullet connectors under the tank
Bike seems ALOT more responsive with the velocity stacks and filters
Starter has alot more umph with the loose ground tightened
Still waiting on headers without the crossover and will install thr carbon fiber timing cover when i do....
I really love the way this bike rides and looks.
A mistake.
Ciao
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21 minutes ago, antmanbee said:
I use an infrared thermometer and measure on the cylinder head stud next to the spark plug. I find it is more consistent than the exhaust pipe.
I also will make adjustments in tunerpro for the cylinder offset map until I get them to be 10 deg difference or less.
It is true that there are many variables that could affect the temperature. I think equalizing the temps is a good way to compensate for the many different tolerances involved.
But an accurate tune first is needed to minimise these differences. It has been a while but I think I remember getting around 260 to 280 deg on the stud.
I personally wouldn't be doing that.
Ciao
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Looks like brilliant stuff but I bet it costs a gazillion dollars and you need to buy a whole roll. That's the usual scenario.
Ciao
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14 minutes ago, docc said:
The Moto Guzzi Parts Catalog I have (translated to English) calls this the "Tie Rod" and Ball Joints."
As to this topic's "eccentric adjustment", I'm pretty sure my personal "Eccentricity Adjuster" is twisted pretty high up the scale . . .
To answer the original question, I think I covered this in my improving the shift thread didn't I? In any case it should be done on the bench to give an even travel to the mechanism in both directions and eliminate/reduce overtravel in the system. It's not an adjustment for pedal travel or a fiddle to improve poor shifting performance.
Ciao
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22 minutes ago, gstallons said:
Yeah , I think a person can think too much about something .
I can remember having a conversation one time and this guy was concerned that the engine in his car didn't stop in the same position EVERY time .
Yes, why I'm not a fan of oil pressure gauges on a Guzzi or any other bike for that matter. The complexity/ risk of failure outweighs the application and just gets you thinking about things you probably don't need to.
Ciao
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1 minute ago, Chuck said:
^^^ What Lucky Phil sez. BIL Harley Bob has EGTs and CHTs on all 6 cylinders of his Continental. He gets worried about them not all being the same. I told him, "too much instrumentation."
Without a doubt.
Ciao
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On 4/4/2021 at 12:44 AM, bsanorton said:
Recently purchased #49 of 300 2001 Rosso Mandello from a member here. 24K on the bike. He mentioned that the materials were different in those single plate clutch's. Crossing my fingers because that is one of the items we discussed before purchase and it looks like he researched it. He bought the bike from his neighbor, between the 2 of them they didn't put many miles on her. The original owner took meticulous notes on his maintenance and parts replacement over the 19 years he owned it. Never a mention of the clutch. Only mention of blowing the 30 amp fuse a few times and replacing the regulator and adding an extra ground wire from the regulator to the battery
Someone posted images here a little while ago of the 2 clutch types viewed through the timing hole in the crankcases so you can see the differences. I have engines with both so could probably provide images if the others can't be located.
Ciao
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4 minutes ago, ozstrider23 said:
Unfortunately Phil the mail here is practically non-existent and even if it does arrive in country, it has been known to 'go missing'.
I've checked out eBay etc and would much prefer to get a replacement but waiting 6 months (typically) for mail is a bit beyond a joke, hence the post.
Ok well maybe 24 hr Araldite then. There is probably better but if availability is an issue. As an aside I used to maintain Air Vanuatu aircraft a few years back.
Ciao
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12 minutes ago, ozstrider23 said:
My bike is a 2001 V11 Le Mans.
Has anybody had any experience with re-gluing the magnets back into the Valeo starter motor? Specifically which adhesive to use.
I've cleaned out the assembly and the magnets, I read on a BMW forum how to place and hold the magnets but getting a particular adhesive could be a problem. The BMW forum didn't specify the adhesive but I'm fairly sure it would be an epoxy.
By the way, my nearest Guzzi dealer is Tom Newell in Brisbane, Australia and, as far as I know, there is only one other Moto Guzzi here in Vanuatu, a '93 Cali.
You can from memory buy a decent Chinese repro version for like $60US or something so why bother? Chuck might chime in as I know he's bought one along with others. Check this ebay item 373086095240
Or https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_159&products_id=4893
Ciao
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8 hours ago, Pressureangle said:
Head temp is a direct function of exhaust gas temperature. So the nearest you can get to measuring that, is measuring the header pipe right at the head.
I'd suggest that balancing the throttle bodies will bring it closer, and now I've got the madness to use EGT to bring my throttles into perfect balance after the static method.I think you've left out cooling. Head temp is a direct result of combustion temperature and cooling efficiency (for many various reasons, like airflow and OAT in an air cooled engine and those and other variables in a liquid cooled engine plus oil flow and oil cooling in some cases). It's a complex equation with a lot of variables.
Ciao
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1 hour ago, Cabernet said:
Beg to differ. Each end is known as a rod "end" bearing. There is a left hand threaded rod "end" bearing, a right hand thread rod "end" bearing. The clues in the name, being at the "ends". Together with a turn buckled "rod" they collectively connect two components, hence connecting rod or con-rod, just like that which connects a piston to a cranked shaft.
Sigh.
Ciao
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1 hour ago, docc said:
Always so interesting, yet mystifying. My Sport is 3/2000 and has the smooth alloy exhaust flanges and the side plates never faded to pink.
Not that Guzzi ever made changes all at once, at a particular inception date.
It's as simple as a batch issue docc, same as the crinkle finish cases. Some fall off and some don't.
Ciao
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Aircraft/ piloting analogies
in Special place for banter and conversation
Posted
Even better. " Air miles are owing but they dont come for free, and they don't give you any for pain" Brilliant. This ones a "motorcycle" song.
Ciao