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It would try to start little throttle but miss and spit. When it would start the map settings were very very lean. I am running pods and a drilled exhaust but I didn't think that it would make such a big difference. I had to almost double the inj. dur. to get it to run cleanly. While the upper ranges were close orginanlly the lower was what really made it unrideable. This is not a fault of Cliff's, he supplied me with a stock map for a Sport11 (if I recall, i need to do some digging for it, I have a V11 but the differneces are minor) I just wanted to point out that the stock map will not always suit a persons bike and may not be the best starting point. The OEM ECU on my bike was crap. It too was really lean, even with the stock airbox and cans. I had been longing for one of Cliff's units for some time to recitify this problem. Cliff's unit seems to be fully capable of doing what is required, I just need to spend the time to get the mapping right. Because untimately FI is no better than the person that fills the columns with numbers. At least now I can do the filling instead of a EPA mandated engineer. (US of course)

I have not had the chance to really ride and test my maps. But the map I originally got from Cliff was unusable. Period. I used Raz's and Pasotib's maps, thanks for posting it by the way!!! You save me much trial and error. At least got me running. So serious tuning later I have a decent map, with a few oddities still, but time will solve those. Welcome to the fourm Kadavere!! Your posts are help full and I LOVE the bar graph!!!! Very slick(good) As you have found out this is the place for real assistance. I wish I had more to contribute. Best of luck.

Baker Electronics I have used some of the other products and been happy. Look at the RWS and the ARWS switches, should do what you want. As for the actually motor portion I would get the system off a late model R6. Squids normally take them off right away, the EXUP valve (only present for noise emissions now) is located in the small slip-on on 06+ models. The motor will be a little more hard to come by, this is normally left on the bike so it does not trigger a FI code. Although people who put full systems on will bypass it and remove the motor.

Just to clearify a "short" is a direct path to ground before the load in a circuit, this will almost always blow a fuse. A "grounded circuit" is a ground that is after the load but before a switching device, thus the circuit stays active. A "drain" is a small draw on the battery that if left for a period of time can drain the battery. Normally corrosion of a switch, it allows a small current to flow even when the switch is in the off position. An ammeter is normally used to measure the drain as "likely" suspects are removed from the system. Removing the fuses will one by one will normally narrow the drain to a specific circuit where more detailed tests will be performed.

Send the duff ECU to Cliff to convert it to a My15m. No more dodgy ECU problems and full adjustablity to boot. Then you can even get it to idle nicely. Yes it will cost you but, so does all the chasing about on ebay.

You have a connection problem. You should not see a 3 volt drop going to the flasher relay "can?" This is the reason ou have a slow flash. Recheck you wiring. You also can get a relay that has a "fixed flash time" as compared to the old style current draw can. This can help keep the blinks blinking when you change the total circuit resistance by changing bulbs.

Dropping the oil pan would quickly answer those questions. The pistons are visable from below and if any mechanical damage had been done you would find it in the screen.

I am in Georgia. Thanks for the offer, but i will pass. I don't have nearly enough time to really ride, so doing any tuning would be a long term project. If you want to sell it I maybe interested though.

Thanks for the replies. I have not had a chance to test it but, I didn't think about the Device Manager. Duh. The usb - serial show up as com6. I tried the normal number up to 4 orginally, I didn't think it would default to such a high number. Thanks again. I have run the bike around, just in open loop. My map needs some serious work. It runs alright below 4k but above it won't even rev. I just have not had the time to alter the map and retest. I will let you know how it goes. Does anyone here run a old style narrow band o2? If so what are the connections. I have not had the cheese to pick a LM-1 yet.

I got My15m up and running. Everything works fine, optimizer etc. I tried to use a usb 2 serial adaptor to connect to my laptop but no communication was ever established. Yes I have the driver installed and under the assumption that the usb 2 serial cable works, it is brand new. I can communicate with the ECU using an older computer with a serial connection, so the serial interface is good. Anyone here sucessfully use a usb 2 serial and am I missing something simple.

I have gone back to the pods I was running earlier. As for the aformentioned wires I completly rerouted the harness so it runs along the spine and the upper seat rails. The only things left going down are the seat cable, clutch, and starter wires / neutral. I will try and post a pic in the next day or two. It has been awhile since I did this and if I recall it was a major pain.

I also toasted the connectors. Replaced them with a proper connector and have not had a problem since. Also make sure your ground is good and clean.

I am currently "extracting" one from a dead WaveRunner ECU, and have requested info from Japan. But the information train rarely travels overseas, particularly when outside sources are used. ie - Mitsubishi ECU production. I have yet to contact AMP, as that will most likely prove fruitless.

I have yet to track down its AMP part number but the connector is used on many current Yamaha WaveRunners and F-series Outboards. I would think it is only available through Tyco and in quanities. Most of the Yamaha ECU's are currently produced by Mitsubishi.

No, the idle quality is crap. Pops and backfires. Actually it is louder than the clutch rattle. While the HC is clean the CO indicates a extremly lean mixture. Basicly the engine is burning everything it can. If I had my 4 gas I am sure it would should be extremly high NOx due to high head temps. The tests are static unfortunaly, so I have about 45 seconds for a good reading before heat build up is an issue. I have not taped the CO meter to the tank and gone for a ride yet. Company equip. No Cliff I don't think you did. I am the one who recently ordered the My1.5 + Opt in kit form, the new batch was not up to snuff. I though I let you know the relationship between the order and my presence here, but perhaps not. Hint - I work for a large Jap MC manu. And I was was implying on the ability to set both mapping and ignition timing as need, not any extra help above shipping out a functional kit. The connector for the 1.5 is still in production, on your site you had checked and stated that it was NLA but perhaps that was for the P8 or 1.6

Carb Cleaner. In the spray can. This will normally take most paints off fairly quickly, luckly clear coats and resins are a little more resistive. Spary some on a rag and wipe vigorously. Normally the paint will come of fairly quickly, particularly if this was an at home spray job. Acetone will also work very quickly, but can soften and damage the resin of the CF much more quickly. After the paint i removed the CF will be very dull looking, traditional buff and wax trechniques will quickly bring it back to life. And the carb cleaner will quicly soften the black engine case glop, for those of you wishing for a non-bubbled apperence.

Well I finally bit the bullet after determining that the factory mapping, for my unit at least, is crap. I have never used this bike as commuter before so, so the conditions that is acts like an ass have never reared their head. At idle CO is 0.02 % HC 150 ppm. By 1800 rpm CO makes it to 2.3% and HC continues at 150 ppm. At 4300 (the hole) CO is 1.1 % and HC is 550 ppm. Above 5500 the CO moves into the 3.5 - 5.0 range, and HC stays around 175. I always have amde up for the leaness by adjusting the TPS to 650 mv or higher. As high as 850 mv at times but that caused some timing surge. I fit a Teclusion -sp? unit I borrowed from a FJR1300. Richen just the bottom a lot and the top a little. WOW. It is ridable again. It is running pretty fat between 2-4.5k rpm (7.0 CO, 850 HC) but at least it doesn't try to spit me off when I come off a light and make a turn. I will just carry some spare plugs and keep it reved up. It is more fun that way. I can't wait til Cliff can get unit out and finally get this thing sorted out.

Well I did not bump it as hard as I though, I only nudged it to 720mV. Not too far off. I finally ran a fuel pressure check and it was spot on, pressure increased and decreased when pressure was applied/removed from the regulator. I guess I need to save my penny's for one of Cliff's units and finally do the mapping properly.

Many automotive shop sell heat wrap. It can usually be found with the Performane Stuff, Holley Carbs, Intakes etc. My local Autozone has both a blanket style (often used for Chevy starters) and some that is pre-sewn for fuel lines. Can't remember the brand though. Congrats and Enjoy!!! I prefer the aluminized over the fabric headerwrap. Better for keeping heat out.

Well, I did not run the fuel pressure gauge. I instead opted install a new fuel filter and recheck the TP & sync. Got everything on and set the TP to 545 mv using the method in the "How to." I was rewarded with 0.19 CO at idle!!! Oh that is too lean, so I bumped the TP to 615 mv which took got it back to about 2.5 CO. Still to lean but I though I would try it. Barely made it out of the parking lot. Out came the allen key and I unscientificly nudged the TP father open. Rode a little. Nope not enough. Repeat. Repeat. Finally got it to stop. Rode home no issues. This morning it ran great coming into work, didn't miss once. I have not had a chance to check what the mv ended up at but I am guessing it is close to 900 mv. It will probably be a few days before I can check the CO too. Clearly something is amiss. I will also scope the TP sensor to check for drop offs. Everyone have a Happy & Safe Holiday (here in the US at least), and Cheers to the rest of you!

Ok, I am in the same boat, backfire at idle, off idle stumble, surge at low throttle / rpm settings, but only in the afternoon. Riding to work in the morng never a problem. Seemed to be a lean condition. I have begun to use it as a commuter, 26miles takes me about 1.5 hours. So I am spending a lot of time in traffic, with Atlanta weather around 90-100 F. It gets pretty hot. I checked all the usual suspects, TB sync, TP angle, new plugs, valve clearence, intake boots, etc. Checked the intake air temp and engine temp (has the brass fitting) and their values seemed to be correct, responded to temp changes etc. Replaced the relays. (headlight relay took a dump one day, so it was a good opportunity. Kudos to Dan, great price and ultra fast shipping!!!!) Hooked up a CO meter, and the values were all over the place. 4.5 CO at idle, 0.2 CO at 2k, and 5.6 CO at 4k. This is unloaded. After playing awhile , TP adjustment with it running and re-syncing, I shut it off. I got my gear to take it for a ride, and low and behold no start. Vapor lock!! So I am going to hook up a pressure gauge today and ride home and see what it does. Maybe a weak pump or just to much heat soak from the traffic. Will report more as it occurs.

You can use the rear axle nut to remove the man-hole cover with the supplied wrench, but that does not help getting the filter out part. (A screwdriver through the filter is a no no, search forum for damage done like this.) A machinist here once made a combo nut and filter wrench that fit a 1/2 ratchet and offered a few for sale.(I maybe mistaken about the sale part) But it looked VERY nice. But do invest in some decent tools. Sears Professional Line work well and are affordable, the tools that come with the bike are really only good for an emergency.

I used to run the pods with the built in velocity stacks and really enjoyed the look with the side covers removed. They fit really good. I do not have the part number handy, but a search of the forum will turn it up, I did get the number here. As for the Air temp sensor I zip tied inside of a spary paint cap and then zipped that to the main frame. Lots of room with no airbox!!! Recently I have gone back to a lidless airbox because I do now ride through some rain. The pods did not like sitting in traffic and getting wet.

Damping rod??? Boy I get the space cadet award!!! Sorry to confuse, hope your forks turned out all right.

The heatgun would be used to help heat up and loosen the the bolt that holds the damping rod in. If you have a good impact gun and socket you can normally get it out without the heat though.