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Go talk to some guys that run an alcohol dragster, they should be able to quickly get you straightened out about the need conversions. As for clogging the fuel filters, I recall melting just about anything plastic or swelling rubber, that would then clog the filter, leak or pass so little fuel as to be useless. Plastic filters would just melt into a shrived ball.

But missiles are much much much much KOOLER!!! Thats why we have EFI on a 1950's AL lump in the first place right? Not that I want to cut this short of 40 pages, (sorry Greg, I didn't invest) how about a simple experiment Ratch. Measure the divided voltage of the sensor and the actual head temp at the same time. That way you can actually post some thermal inertia data that would make everyone happy. Then you could scientifically decide if you needed MORE mass or less MASS to the newly spec'ed sensor. (What if the head actually cools faster than the sensor!!!! OH DEFICATION!!!) Less mass and no plastic or brass holder. Wait, mine is made out of copper. OH DEFICATION!!, what do i do? Elmer's Paste in the gap? I'm so confused but I refuse to re-read GIGABYTES of speculation. Sorry, I have to work. Oh yeah, from the divided voltage you can calculate the other half of the resistor in the ECU. But only if you study Ohm's law really hard!!! For those who just want to know. Ratch, I am glad you are attempting to at least spec out a sensor that would do the job the Italian's wanted it to do in the first place. I may rub you once and awhile but it is all in good fun. I'll just thank Cliff for making a simple ECU that I can do what I want with. Like correct the poor engine mapping temp corrections. I MADE 34!!! YES!!!! Had to edit that in....

Why not buck up for some Ti bolts. Those are also readily available for Duc's.

I don't want to bum you out Greg, but maybe these gents already have the patent. Turns out my "Dial-a-Knob" was too close to other products and I was hit with a "infringement" lawsuit.

**SPECULATION** I do not have a O2 equipped Guzzi to verify this. Most motorcycles will operate in closed loop during idle, and constant throttle (cruising) conditions only. The A/F mix is adjusted in real time with NO data stored for future use. (In other words no short or long term trims, for those of you familiar with that.) Normally when an O2 sensor is unplugged or left to hang, it will send a lean signal (low voltage) to the ECU the ECU compensates until a certain cut off point by richening the A/F mix. Once this point is reached one of two things happen. 1. The ECU ignores the O2 sensor and stays in OPEN loop & turns on the Check engine light and stores a code. 2. The ECU ignores the O2 sensor and stays in OPEN loop. When the ECU switches back to open loop due to this type of failure it will continue to run in open loop until the next time the bike is turned off and restarted. Then the process is repeated. Personally I would just remove the O2 sensor. Your fuel mileage may suffer a little depending on your riding habits though. But you didn't buy a Guzzi for good economy did you?

Good luck Jim, I think the only limp home mode our ECU's have is the one that you use after you crash.

$235 a year Full Coverage with a $500 Deduc, but I am not sure about the limits. Multi-line discount through State Farm. The 70 Ambassador is $110 a year for only collision.

I have about 13k miles on the orginal stock single plate. I did pull the trans, check for cracks and retorque the mounting bolts early in its life thou. how much longer will it last. Time will tell.

Just another two cents here. I have read about who spec'ed what and why and when. They (engineers, particually at small companies) spec from what is available. They get a catalog and look in it and point their finger and say that will work, order up!!! It is in all aspects a COOLANT TEMP SENSOR. Not an oil temp sensor or head temp sensor. Thanks for pointing this out Dan and summerizing. So they bodged it to work and took a imperfect reading sensor and mapped the bike accordingly. Great two problems. Hats of to Ratch for creating a cheap PowerCommander. But since we are all so zealous about this why don't we spec out our own sensor?? Our engines are simple and the FI system is just as simple. The conditions (locations, temps, humidity, etc..) that our bikes can run into make for many situations that our bikes don't run well in. So the map is to lean, compress your pressure reg to add more preload to the spring and bump up the fuel presure. Well great it is fine at 3/4+ throttle you say, but what about idle. Advance your TPS. Oh no not more timing!! Slot your timing reluctor and retard it. Oh ackk. This is like work. LOL!!!!

Bad rear bulb or connection. This is a simple paralell circuit, when one path goes open, the circuits resistance increases to the point that bi-metallic flasher will not heat up, thus no blinky blinky.

Why not just put a big'ol stereo knob up on that upper clamp and do away with the dang oil/head/hot air non-maybe-some-fillerup-air gap brass but shouda been some kinda plasticy something or other. Then you could just dial away all the running troubles. Weeeee!!!! Volume up!!! Maybe i'll market it and call it "Dial-a-Knob" Maybe I can cash out before Dial-a-Jet sues me. I bet if all the silly banter continues we can beat that elastomer / hysteresis - hysterious(look that up in the urban dicitionary) drilling thread. We are almost there. We can out think the Italians.

Since you guys are getting into the excel stuff, here is a file I use to compare my changes. Cut and paste your original and current map, then you can see the percent of change and also a graph, with injector durations at 20deg & 40deg. Feel free to use it, add to it, distort, twist or maim at your leisure. I just zipped the xls file. compare.zip

I just thought I would add these pics. Who ever is better able to determine a proper outcome, cheers. As a note I run a "homemade" brass sensor holder. Pic #1 Cylinder Head Temp on a Yamaha XV1900. Pic #2 Cylinder Head Temp sensor is on the left as compared to a standard Coolant Temp sensor from a water cooled model.

Kadavere, I was having similar running problem to yours. The maps I was running were just too lean. So I richened up large portions of my map and the difference was significant. While I have not spent very much time tuning this map it has given me a very startable and rideable map. I am fairly certain that you running issuses are map related and not MyP8 related. Have you measured the stock P8 injector durations with a scope and manually translated them to the MyECU??

http://www.microsquirt.info/ This is derivative of the "megasquirt" line of ECU's. http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html Much more info available.

I must of missed this, could you link it please.

I found Cliffs post a little confusing too. TDC?? Which one compression or overlap? If we back up from either of the TDC's 300 degrees we end up in the middle of our power stroke (too early) or the middle of our intake stroke (too late). Neither would be a good time to inject. Lubho - I agree. Lubho - The chart is a simple valve lift vs crank angle chart, and it shows two complete cycles. The cam specs are not radical, in fact they are quite close to the x3 cam for our bikes from megacycle. Just in case- Camshaft timing info. Perhaps this picture would help instead. It is from the above article.

For those of use that are verbally challenged. NOTE: timing and cam specs are not from our engines!!!!

TDC Intake is the beginning of the intake event, our exhaust is also open so we all commonly refer to this as overlap. Our 525 should be the number of crank degrees after that event that the injector begins its injection duration. At 525 after TDC intake( or TDC exhaust, your call) we are just beginning our exhaust stroke. This is when most FI systems inject. Further reading of the above article explains, read the last few paragraphs. http://resources.metapress.com/pdf-preview...mp;size=largest

It is a shame that simple combustion theory can so easily be snowballed into a money making venture. Add phrases like "plasma tunnel" and an inaccuate combustion pressure graph and we'll make millions!!! Complete crap, use Denso or NGK. OEM's like them for a reason.

Theoritically the pleat on the gauze filters do nothing more than hold the oil, the oil is what captures the dirt and it does have to get very dirty for it to be visually noticeable. The current manufacturer that I work for still uses oiled foam filters on their Outdoor units, talk about dirt build up. Paper filters have been suggested as a solution to lack of owner mantainence, but the factory still maintains that the oil foam is preferable, mainly due to lifespan. While workng for a race team in the late 90's we were sponsored by a up and coming air filter manufacturer, they currently sell foam and gauze. After several weeks of testing them it was decided that the OEM paper worked better, not only for power but also filtration. In our case the sprint races were short enough not to be bothered by the build up in the paper filter, if we were entering the Baja 500 that may have been another matter. So we run the OEM and wear the stickers. So yes Greg, most of that dirt did go into your engine. Particually if it happened to be any left over volcanic ash. I had a road trip that was delayed due to a blocked paper filter in a car. So we ran it without a filter!!! At least it got us where we needed to be. I never measured for engine wear though... Hmmmm...

Also remember that paper maintence is replace, foam or gauze is clean an re-oil. While paper can filter to a smaller micron level it will quickly clog and then flow substanstially less than a comparable foam or gauze. Foam or gauze will flow a lower volume of air intially but will remain fairly consistant until a saturation point is reached, then it will pass air and dirt. To be honest the filter maintence of most aftermarket foam or gauze filters is very optimstic. Many should be cleaned and re-oil at far greater intervals than is recomended. In reailty is works out though because generally something else wears out or breaks before we suffer a failure due to dirt ingestion, on street motorcycles at least. (Some locales may vary) So run the paper with the box, or run pods with the gauze. Either way if you service them regularly you should be alright. As for the power issue. Tuned length intakes are very well documented here and in other locations and have been in effective use since WWII. Do a little web seaching and figure out what works best for what you like.

textile. key. and so far I am quite happy with the conti attacks I have gotten, they have about 1000 miles so far and seem to work quite well.

Unridable, before, Enjoyable now. Yes. I already thanked and credited those individuals. That was my orginal point. Lubho, the OEM ECU would give me a CO reading of 0.02% at idle. A little lean. MyECU did cure those problems because I can adjust the Inj.Dur. until I got a 3.2% reading and a nice clean idle. I seemed to have gotten under your skin somehow. Many apologies, I was just letting those intrested know that stock maps don't always work.

Here is the fuel table from the orginal map. RPM 500 1100 1500 1801 2000 2302 2601 2900 3360 3654 4045 4655 5353 6157 7082 8143 InjDur 14 3984 11408 11296 11008 10848 10672 10464 10288 10400 10368 10064 9920 10656 12016 11712 11376 InjDur 13 3984 11360 11248 10960 10800 10640 10416 10224 10320 10304 10032 9856 10496 11696 11392 11136 InjDur 12 3984 11280 11136 10848 10688 10544 10320 10096 10144 10128 9936 9712 10128 10944 10640 10608 InjDur 11 3984 10960 10816 10624 10512 10304 10048 9824 9696 9552 9200 8544 8624 8960 8592 8480 InjDur 10 3984 10736 10592 10512 10464 10144 9888 9664 9424 9120 8528 7952 8112 8256 7280 6864 InjDur 9 3984 9360 9248 9120 9056 8816 8592 8384 8272 8096 7680 5616 5984 6256 5888 5520 InjDur 8 3984 7968 7872 7712 7632 7456 7280 7104 6768 6416 5856 5312 4960 4784 4736 4160 InjDur 7 3984 7888 7616 7488 7424 7200 7024 6896 6512 6048 5248 4576 4576 4496 4432 4016 InjDur 6 3984 7840 7200 7056 6976 6400 6112 5920 5728 5136 4976 4576 4048 3920 3616 3872 InjDur 5 5184 7072 6608 6240 6032 5168 5104 5104 4912 4640 4176 4016 3520 3632 3184 2848 InjDur 4 4880 5168 5440 4976 4816 3872 4080 4240 4000 3872 3696 3152 2896 3040 2912 2480 InjDur 3 4688 4016 4128 4128 4128 3456 3456 3344 3248 3024 2864 2832 2464 2208 2112 2080 InjDur 2 4640 3456 3312 3312 3312 2880 2800 2704 2592 2592 2256 1936 1600 1504 1504 1504 InjDur 1 4544 2880 2880 2464 2400 2192 2016 1872 1776 1440 1472 1184 1040 1040 912 752 InjDur 0 4032 2128 1648 1680 1392 1168 1200 1200 1136 1040 1040 992 992 992 752 608 Here is the current. The lower TP angles were set using an EGA so they are pretty close. RPM 500 1150 1322 1520 1750 2011 2314 2662 3059 3521 4045 4655 5353 6157 7082 8116 InjDur 14 4912 13088 12960 12672 12480 12336 11232 11008 11056 12056 12277 12220 12540 12056 12052 12020 InjDur 13 4912 12832 13232 13040 12912 12688 11504 11264 11136 10992 11858 11500 10516 10368 10000 9872 InjDur 12 4912 12592 13008 12912 12848 12480 11328 11104 10864 10544 10908 10797 9772 9632 9608 9088 InjDur 11 4912 11136 11488 11344 11280 10992 10848 9776 9664 9456 10464 10038 8972 8972 8972 8972 InjDur 10 8720 9632 9936 9760 9680 9456 9856 8432 8464 8400 9724 9724 8800 8800 8800 8892 InjDur 9 8720 9504 9648 9504 9424 9168 9568 8208 8464 7920 9167 9167 8320 8328 8304 8032 InjDur 8 8720 9296 9088 8928 8848 8304 8816 8224 7184 7840 7926 9075 7840 7840 7840 7824 InjDur 7 6096 8736 8736 8736 8736 7104 8128 7088 7104 6784 7648 8760 7568 7568 7568 7568 InjDur 6 5808 8320 8320 8320 7728 6752 6752 6752 7008 6608 6389 7315 6320 6320 6320 6320 InjDur 5 7152 7520 7520 7312 6016 6016 6016 6016 5712 5248 5630 6389 5520 5328 5136 5136 InjDur 4 5920 6528 6640 5664 4816 4336 4752 4528 4912 4576 5110 5129 3856 3664 4304 4096 InjDur 3 5872 5920 5520 5552 4240 4176 4048 4464 4605 5196 5827 5080 3924 3763 4067 3960 InjDur 2 5824 5456 5184 4608 3872 3600 3296 3488 4659 3996 3673 3834 3548 3404 3351 3351 InjDur 1 2560 3696 3472 3280 3008 2256 2240 2528 2885 2849 3279 3082 2920 3405 3504 3220 InjDur 0 2768 2832 2928 2400 2480 2544 2608 2672 3064 3136 3207 3297 3368 3440 3512 3046 And here is a percent change. RPM 500 1150 1322 1520 1750 2011 2314 2662 3059 3521 4045 4655 5353 6157 7082 8116 InjDur 14 23.3% 14.7% 14.7% 15.1% 15.0% 15.6% 7.3% 7.0% 6.3% 16.3% 22.0% 23.2% 17.7% 0.3% 2.9% InjDur 13 23.3% 13.0% 17.6% 19.0% 19.6% 19.2% 10.4% 10.2% 7.9% 6.7% 18.2% 16.7% 0.2% -11.4% -12.2% InjDur 12 23.3% 11.6% 16.8% 19.0% 20.2% 18.4% 9.8% 10.0% 7.1% 4.1% 9.8% 11.2% -3.5% -12.0% -9.7% InjDur 11 23.3% 1.6% 6.2% 6.8% 7.3% 6.7% 8.0% -0.5% -0.3% -1.0% 13.7% 17.5% 4.0% 0.1% 4.4% InjDur 10 118.9% -10.3% -6.2% -7.2% -7.5% -6.8% -0.3% -12.7% -10.2% -7.9% 14.0% 22.3% 8.5% 6.6% 20.9% InjDur 9 118.9% 1.5% 4.3% 4.2% 4.1% 4.0% 11.4% -2.1% 2.3% -2.2% 19.4% 63.2% 39.0% 33.1% 41.0% InjDur 8 118.9% 16.7% 15.4% 15.8% 15.9% 11.4% 21.1% 15.8% 6.1% 22.2% 35.3% 70.8% 58.1% 63.9% 65.5% InjDur 7 53.0% 10.8% 14.7% 16.7% 17.7% -1.3% 15.7% 2.8% 9.1% 12.2% 45.7% 91.4% 65.4% 68.3% 70.8% InjDur 6 45.8% 6.1% 15.6% 17.9% 10.8% 5.5% 10.5% 14.1% 22.3% 28.7% 28.4% 59.9% 56.1% 61.2% 74.8% InjDur 5 38.0% 6.3% 13.8% 17.2% -0.3% 16.4% 17.9% 17.9% 16.3% 13.1% 34.8% 59.1% 56.8% 46.7% 61.3% InjDur 4 21.3% 26.3% 22.1% 13.8% 0.0% 12.0% 16.5% 6.8% 22.8% 18.2% 38.3% 62.7% 33.1% 20.5% 47.8% InjDur 3 25.3% 47.4% 33.7% 34.5% 2.7% 20.8% 17.1% 33.5% 41.8% 71.8% 103.5% 79.4% 59.3% 70.4% 92.6% InjDur 2 25.5% 57.9% 56.5% 39.1% 16.9% 25.0% 17.7% 29.0% 79.7% 54.2% 62.8% 98.0% 121.8% 126.3% 122.8% InjDur 1 -43.7% 28.3% 20.6% 33.1% 25.3% 2.9% 11.1% 35.0% 62.4% 97.8% 122.8% 160.3% 180.8% 227.4% 284.2% InjDur 0 -31.3% 33.1% 77.7% 42.9% 78.2% 117.8% 117.3% 122.7% 169.7% 201.5% 208.4% 232.4% 239.5% 246.8% 367.0%