emry

This is a useless post by me but, thanks for the laugh guys! It has been the best I have had all day. It is not to often that Hubert and I agree but in this case i concur.

The Odyssey batteries became very popular with the custom HD market, big cube engines and very poor charging systems (like ours). Apparently the heavy starter draw with low charging voltages, and the tendency for short rides was killing the batteries quickly, not creating repeat customers. Thus some warnings about charging. As for the regualtor instructions, HUH??? Really. Properly jumping using a NON-running vehicle shouldn't pose a problem, a 12v battery is a 12v battery. Perhaps too many failures due to the running vehicle jump start, our older watercraft used to eat CDI units because of that. Rewinding to a 3phase would be a mathmatical problem. Finding another stator and rotor (don't forget to re-calculate the magnet size) could be a possibilty, although perhaps a bit expensive. I think a decent regualtor, a battery that does not have special charing requirements (Yuasa or such, and the occasional overnight boost is both the most economical and practical solution. Kiwiroy, on your new regulator are you copying the orginal design or using a differnt?

Typically when an injector begins to fail they start to leak. This shows up intially as a very rich cylinder. In some rare cases the windings can short or open, one will ruin an ECU and the cylinder is dead, the other will just drop the cylinder. Although getting a set of balanced and flowed injectors is worth the money. KiwiRoy - You seem resourcefull enough, why not make your own flow tester. 555 timer circuit with a controlling transistor works dandy. I'll post a video of the one I made later tonight Your "sneeze" whould be a classic characterisic of a lean mixture. When I began tuning with MyECU my Guzzi required much more fuel than I or others thought necessary. It wouldn't even run on the map that was orginally provided. When running with the OEM unit it had developed a low throttle sneeze and would stall at stop lights. What or why things had changed from new was never resolved. The exhaust CO was 0% when checked.

When using a "open" (SCR is used to open the current path) style recitifier voltage can only be regulated in half waves. For the regulator to function the SCR's must be turned on, they will remain in this state until the voltage crosses 0v, at which point they will open, thus cutting output. This can make output filtering very important as voltage levels can swing wildly at low frequencies. A "short" sytle regualtor will ground a circuit at a determined voltage level, instead of cutting out a half wave it will only remove a portion of the output during that cycle (normally this voltage level is measured post filter, thus the short can actually occur at any point during the full recification cycle). This helps to create a much more stable voltage output, particularly when used with 3-phase. This method is much more electronic friendly as it creates much less noise (electrical, not audible). Open styles are cheap, short styles get more expensive. In the short sytle SCR's, IGBT's or FET's are used depending on requirements and cost. IGBT's and FET models will actually clip (by shorting the circuit at a higher frequency than the a/c) the voltage to a determined level thus smoothing the output even more. This can be very desireable with modern elctronics. Short sytles also are desireable because of less chance of stator or reg/rec arcing. When a permanent magnet stator circuit is open, full voltage is still produced, this can lead to arcing which will flow full current (though a non-desired path) and melt, the up side is the rectifier does not deal will constant high current loads, once again cheaper because less attention to heat dissaption is needed. A short style will drop the a/c to a lower value because of the reduced impedence, which lowers the chance of arcing, although the recifier and regulator now must be able to dissipate more heat, airflow and construction can be a concern. Hope that makes sense.

Using a full wave reg/rec should work just fine, one diode leg just would never be used (it could be a spare). As long as the wattage rating is greater than the Guzzi orginal. I will play around at work and see if if I can find either a full wave reg/rec that might work and/or a 3 phase. Give me few days. Does anyone have the output spec handy?

Hey Kiwi Roy, while I have not cut into a rec/reg lately, shoudn't the recitifer portion be a bridge, while the scr's are used in the regulator portion to dump a/c?

Perhaps it was a tuned version of the MM1.5 for one of their models. http://www.ghezzi-brian.com/

MyECU. I liked the full user tuning and it works. Closed loop tuning is an option. Price is a plus, two options, prebuilt or solder yourself. Small group of very deticated users, makes questions and answers quick and simple. Do a search and you will find a lot of info. Cliff, the developer, stays active and has branched out to other makes that also use the similar generations of the ECU, Ducati, Laverda, etc. It normally is built into the orginal case so it fits it the OEM location and to the OEM wire harness.

Sounds like a grounding issue. I would get out the meter and do some voltage drops and se what is going on.

Only a Guzzi would have replacing relays as part of its regular maintence. Too funny. Glad you got it sorted.

Dunlop 252's were the ones that caused problems. Tried two sets. Metzlers and Bridgestones(OEM) worked without problem on all of the bikes (we have 4 Fjr's.) Although the BT's start cupping after 3k miles, just like the ones on my Guzzi did.

I just chased this problem on an FJR about week ago for a concerned friend. He had installed a different brand of tires from OEM, rode about 1k miles and then noticed a "shimmy" when he took his hands off the bars. My answer was don't. But after running through many of the above suggestions, I swapped the tres out with another brand and the problem was gone. He was then satisfied that his bike was ok and that it was only the tires.

If it is the secondary of the solenoid on the starter, disassembly and a good scuff with some sandpaper or such of the main contacts will normally allow a good contact for starting. As noted above if your problem is the primary windings or other starter activation circuits you are in for a little more work.

45 vAC maybe???

Breakeven results like that are fairly typical on a full wave system. That is why most manufacturers switched to three phase systems, particularly on FI models.

Of note, typical driveshaft house may not understand the amount of angle or implications this shaft undergoes. A shop that specializes in off road 4x4's and extreme driveshaft angles would / should get the picture. Most high performance drag shops should also understand, when you explain that this shaft undergoes about 4" of travel under normal use.

I work with an individual that worked with Guzzi from around 99~04. When I told him I own an 02 Scura, he laughed and asked if I rode it. He was quite serious. During one of several trips to the factory he noted major assembly "mistakes" and he is not a very technical indivdual (although experienced) -- sales.... Perhaps the shaft was half n' halfed during assembly. Easy to do whe nyou dro pseveral.. Sangria!!! What's the football score???? Get it balanced. While 65k is very good, a balanced driveshaft is not that expensive and would only help matters (cheaper than a trans case.) "It looks OK" is not the correct answer, they have machines for that, make it right.

If our injectors suffered from choked flow we would not need a pressure regulator, not to mention the resulting spray pattern would be poor. On a similar note, many turbo/supercharged engines reference the regulator to manifold, so that as manifold pressure increases so does the fuel pressure.

I will not read this entire thread. I will post this tid bit. Fuel pressure(relative, that is what matters) is the differnce between the face of the injector(in the manifold, subject to engine vacuum at partial or less throttle) and the fuel rail(determined by the regulator). Our bikes have NO manifold pressure sensor. they are purely Alpha-n, throttle-speed, or any of the other names. The ECU calculates base fuel injection duration based on throttle angle and rpm. Period. It is modified per enviroment variables, temps, altitude, engine temp (that is a whole other thread).... Our system was mapped to a atmosheric relative value. That means the regulator keeps fuel pressure constant, relative to atompheric pressure (NOT connected to any intake ports). Relative pressure will change from idle to WOT, with high pressure differnce at idle then at WOT (atompsheric pressure is in the manifold at WOT). The ECU uses "best guesses" to determine how long to open the injector. Our system will never be close or even very good, in regards to fueling calculations. But it will work.... ok at least.... enough to ride and enjoy. Pressure regulators utilize a spring and diaphram to regulate fuel pressure, rapidly changing levels of vacuuum cause the diamphram to "vibrate" which causes premautre wear of the diaphram and early failure. Manufactours that use a "manifold relative" system join 4 cylinders (only type I am aware of) to the regualtor so that constant vacuum is applied and fuel pressure is constant (relative to the intake manifold pressure). Fuel mapping is done accordingly. Those same manufacturors twin and single cylinder models use no manifold referencing for fuel pressure but use a manifold pressure sensor to calculate "speed-density" also known as D-jetronic fuel based values. Thus the ECU is now compensating for changes in "relative" fuel pressure based on manifold pressures. Ex. at lower throttle settings the realtive pressure is higher so lower fuel injector durations are the result, this is based off of manifold pressure and rpm values. As the engine begins rev higher (throttle opening) the relative pressure across the injector decreases as the manifold pressure get higher (closer to atomoshperic), then ECU adjusts the injector duration based on the known pressure differnce (remember, the pressure in the fuel rail is constant based on atmospheric {which is monitored by the ECU}) so the relative pressure differnece is known to the ECU. We Guzzisiti do not have that option, at least on the older models V11's etc. Any questions? Please no spelling corrections. I have had to much GOOD liquer and am going to bed now.

I think I would try another brand at this point.

Very interesting. Reminds me of those fuses with LEDs built in. Vaseline does work well, I suggest it to customers for preventive battery maintence, but areas that have high ambient temps it can just melt and then drip away making a mess elsewhere. Areas like Arizona, Georgia, etc. I use dielectric grease on other contacts, marketed as Yamaha Brake Caliper Grease (still makes me laugh) it is also is available at most auto stores in cheap little packets for spark plug boots. Its merit have been flogged elsewhere here.

#269 is in Kennesaw, GA

It would appear we are talking about what is known as the "stall" speed of the motor. DC motors are effectively shorted through the winding in the rotor when they are not rotating, at this time the current draw is very high but the motor is also capable of creating the largest amount of torque. As the rotor starts to rotate (current flow create a magnetic field in the rotor which causes it to move in relation to the magnets in the housing) the brushes begin to contact another winding inside the rotor. As the speed of the rotor increases the "effective" resistance also increases (more windings) this lowers the current flow, which also lower the torque until the motor reaches its "no load speed", which is when the torque it prodcues is only enough to maintain it speed. For the math junkies http://lancet.mit.edu/motors/motors3.html Or am I misunderstanding the question. perhaps this is an better answer http://www.matronics.com/aeroelectric/articles/strtctr.pdf

Oops. The other clamps they sell are measured in 64th's, and I failed to notice the change. I thought they were 25/64th's. Sorry about that.

These maybe?? http://www.mcmaster.com/#5462k56/=6qsm2c