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There is also "JB Kwik" a faster setting version of JB Weld. It will harden up in about 15 minutes making it perfect for roadside bodges. It also seems to be just as strong as the orginal. I sealed my timming chest the first time it blew out with it and the Mechanic that ended up replacing the gasket was not happy. (He was a wimp.) I keep some in all of my travel kits. Handy Stuff.

If you ruled out clutch chatter my bet would be on the transmission. The uneven power pulses can cause the gears to load and unload and make a little racket. The funny part is my Scura's clutch actually make more noise than my JD 410 backhoe!!!

If I recall when I did my scura I just ran new leads from the bat (terminals are a tight fit now) and used exsisting spade connectors. Someone here had already done the homework.

My timing chest blew out two gaskets under warranty. I finally fixed by ditching the gasket and using hylomar instead. Problem fixed. My money is on the chest.

Actually there is too much resistance in the new light. More resistance = less amps = no heating of the bi-metallic inside the flasher relay. Simple solution. Most auto parts store sell an electronic flasher relay that is not dependant of amp's to cause it to flash. It will plug right in and you then have flashers again.

Since I have Ohlin's i actually have a small allen key taped to the inside of my wind screen. Pull into a gas station and fiddle....

Yes, convience and ignorance engineered into the same design. Welcome to Guzzi land. Yeah, spin on filter behinf the man-hole. Don't forget to pull any labeling taped onto the filter when you change it. As for the forks, one contains only the valving needed for compression, the other only rebound. Thus the left fork provides all of the compression damping and the right provides all of the rebound. Several japanese makes used this style design to cut costs on their lower end bikes. And the forks are connected, the front axle....

I agree with Cliff. 0.07 amp is a very small drain. Cars can have upwards of 0.5amps and still be considered acceptable.

It sounds like maybe the tech is being cheap on Guzzi warranty claims process. I have yet seen a big end wear a beaing out and not score the crank. This smells ... odd...

I would repair the connection and fire it up and see what the charging system does. In my case the connector was failing but my charging system was still functioning adequately. Lets not for get as a connection corrodes the voltage drops which causes the amperage to rise, thus melted connector. Maybe you will be lucky.

I put my wife on back and went out and ground the side stand down until it didn't touch. Now when I go out by myself I don't scrape anymore. The best part was she held on real tight, fun for both!!!

Check where your stator coil plugs into the harness. Mine was melted when i finally noticed it; still didn't have a charging problem but I am sure it was not far away. Should be within 3 or 4 inches of the stator on the front down tubes. The plastic that is around the connectors was melted beyond belief. Dripping...

For a quick sample just take the mufflers and the crossover off and go for a spin. Don't forget the earplugs though.....

I will second Nogbad. Let not forget that oil's job is is clean, cool, and lubricate. The internal combustion engine produces some really nasty shit during combustion and the only thing that keeps it out of the oil is those puny piston rings.

All oil will aerate when thrashed by a crankshaft. Don't forget that mayonnaise is mostly blended oil. Most car manufactuers label "DO NOT OVERFILL" on their dipsticks because of this problem.

Mmmmm.... icing.....

9k. Paint only lasted about 1k, then it began to look really bad. Timing cover gasket blew out three times. Other than that it has been great.

Definatley try the external fix first. My gasket blew out twice in that same exact spot. Not trusting my dealer to repair it again i just used some black silicone. I cleaned off a small section of the paint first using carb cleaner so the silicone would stick. Worked like a charm. If you do decide to pull the front cover don't forget to get the front crank seal. They also seem to be delicate. But be careful with the carb cleaner it will quickly take off the paint.

Thanks Nogbad. That was 2 funny!!!!

My money is on valve clearence. My Scura was a fit to ride here in central GA with the OEM specs. I run the wide Raceco specs and the bike is sputter free and a joy. (Other than the darn dip at 4500 ) As for the oil sensor light, I would make sure that oil filter is properly seated. Didn't someone here have a similar problem and found that their filter had backed off. No oil pressure is very bad.......

Dot 3 and Dot 4 are gycol based but Dot 5 is silicone based. Not compatable!!!! But some manufacturers have been selling Dot 5.1 (I think) that is gycol based) just to really confuse the matter. To my knowledge only HD has used Dot 5 in its mototrcycles. And yes Freon R-12 was replaced by R-134a for automotive use.

Mine failed twice in the same spot. Instead of letting the dealer fix it the second time I took the time to paint the cases and choose not to use a gasket on the front cover. (This was covered somewhere else already) I used a thin layer of "Hylomar". So far so good.

I did the smae thing. A quick trip to Ace hardware and I picked up some a brass and copper pipe fittings and made myself one. A little plumbing solder to hold it all together and weeeee. Riding again.

As I recall the main use of platinum and iridium in spark plugs it to allow longer times between changes. Most cars now use platinum and have 100,000 intervals for changing. Both platinum and iridium is much more resistive to matter transference than the good ol standard plug. Thus the electrode does not wear down, which keeps the gap constant over a longer period of time. Also the smaller electrodes are less prone to fouling due to localized heat. (The electrode's temp is higher due to less surface area=better burn off characteristics.) Now as for more power. Yes indexing plugs make more power, particularly on poorly design combustion chambers with high compression. Whould we on a guzzi??? Sure a small bit. I think weight reduction through matter expulsion would be a bigger increase in power to weight ratio though.

I have painted my engine cases since the my last post and during reassembly I choose not to use a front gasket and instead usd a thin layer of Hylomar. Applied as big J wrote of course. 2k miles and not a leak.