LowRyter

Chuck, thanks for the Harbor Freight idea. I'll have to pick one of those up. I am always working with aquarium tubing and jelly jars- even had turkey marinade syringe. Sorry that Rosie is given you a few problems. I am sure you'll get to the root since you're an ace wrench. I was lucky to find a fast green one. BTW- I just put a 1000 miles on the green bike and planning another 400 miles tomorrow. Oil looks good.

I reused the O ring after finding it on the floor. I am out an hour of shop time. Did you have a power bleeder?

point upwards? the bleeder is at the bottom on the caliper pointing at the ground.

well Docc, I screwed up royal. I was attempting to unbolt the caliper from the bracket and my near vision fooled me and I unscrewed the wrong bolts and took the caliper apart. DUH. Brake fluid everywhere. I got it back to together (one O ring I hope). But cannot get it pressure. I've been bleeding but no luck. bad to worse I am afraid.

well I just got the new pads, EBC HH, $45! No wonder they're worn out, I've seen postage stamps bigger than these little buggers.

that's how I normally do it. And sometimes I use one of the old pads to wedge the new ones apart when I reinstall the caliper to the disc & bracket. Hopefully a two piston set up will be easier that four pistons. (side to side vs side to side & front to back).

thanks

are there only the two allen bolts that attach the caliper to the bracket?

Thanks Michael, I'll do it next time. I just had a rear tire replaced unexpectedly on the road Friday. When changing it the mechanic noticed the brakes were shot, the inside pad has no material left. Unfortunately, there were no pads in stock. I am back home now and I am going on a 400 miles on Saturday and don't have the time for all that you suggest now. And since this full sports Dunlop Qualifier, I'll have the wheel off again replacing it in abouit 3000 miles. So it won't be long and I can grease it then. The tire that was punctured was new, so I believe the PO did all the required maintenance. I've ordered the pads and am hopeful to get them in time to make the ride. I don't want to run into snags, so I am asking for the quickest way for success. When I've replaced pads, I've always removed the caliper. I might be able to do it while the caliper is still attached per the instructions. BTW- there are only two allen head bolts that attach to the caliper to the bracket?

ok, change the pad but don't remove the caliper. how do you pry the caliper pistons without damaging the disc?

I don't have a stand to take off the rear wheel. If I take the caliper off, is it only held by the two allan bolts? Or do I have to take the bracket off too?

I am ordering new rear pads for my V11 Sport. Am I correct that only two allen bolts hold the caliper on the bracket? Researching on the forum, it appears that one can replace the pads without removing the caliper. Is there any preference? I am little concerned that I might have a problem wedging the pads in a tight fit. any hints would be appreciated.

Those Sport mirrors work better than the OEM mirrors on my Suzuki Bandit. They were in a box of spare parts that came with my Sport. I researched the topic to figure out how the mirror stalks stayed tight.

get well soon''' but won't all the oil drain when you open the cover?

I ran the numbers a few years back but I haven't verified them with GPS or radar. From http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13940&hl=speed RPM = MPH 8000 = 141.39 7500 = 132.55 7000 = 123.72 6500 = 114.88 6000 = 106.04 5500 = 97.21 5000 = 88.37 4500 = 79.53 4000 = 70.7 3500 = 61.86 3000 = 53.02 2500 = 44.18 cool,,,just what I was looking for....I doubt the bike will pull much more than 7k in top gear if that.

I told you it was a good runner.. it's a hoot & a holler.

I would guess that 6k would put it about 101 mph (I think I have the narrow rear tire...quick handling)

actually my V11 (unlike my EV) does fine at 3k in 6th. It pulls like a train really. that's one reason I wanted to know the speed. whoever set up the tune made a strong midrange on this one.

I wanted actual actual. like tire circumference times X gears X RPM. I thought someone might have that. calculated speed from RPM in top gear. at 6k it's going pretty quickly.

I wonder if anyone has as the computed speed for riding the v11 sport in top gear at 4k, 5k, and 6k rpms?

I've run maybe 4 or 5 tankfuls and getting about 32 mpg. Maybe a little better than my Suzuki Bandit gets. I think the gas light comes on about 130 miles. My EV gets about 40 mpg and the gas light come on about 135 miles

I've serviced both ends of the cable. I lubed it, tightened those two screws on the speedo unit, taken the tranny drive off, it moved freely and the brass fitting is tight. I did get it all back together after taking it apart & it all still works about the same. Since the previous owner did top maintenance, I'm not surprised that I didn't find a quick fix. I am bothered that the lube seeps out the cable at the connection at the tranny drive. It gave me an opportunity to putter around on it, I did no apparent harm. It's minor nigle for now (knock wood).

thanks for the link Doc. Looking at the photos, I need to take the elbow n the transmission connection apart? make sure the gears are ok and meshing.

I didn't notice any additional screws on the speedo unit, I just unscrewed the cable & lubed it. Just checked the tranny end and the oil was dripping out. That doesn't seem right, I'd think the cable should be be sealed. I tightened the cable fastener, it wasn't lose but I did tighten it. The fitting of the transmission seemed tight. The leak was on the cable fastener not at the transmission mount. didnt make a difference on the test ride.