Scud

Is it safe to assume you've already soaked it with WD-40 or PB Blaster? You also have a fast idle lever on the handlebar. That cable goes to another idle stop on the RH side of the bike. You can adjust your idle speed there. Both idle stops serve the same function.

Personally, I wouldn't bother trying to keep the wrinkle finish on the final drive. It's far enough away from the engine and transmission that it will look fine with a different finish. Better to get as close to the swingarm as possible. On my Scura, the swingarm is powdercoated flat black (as are almost every other black bracket lever, footpeg, etc.). The engine, tranny, final drive and reaction rod are all painted with VHT Satin Black (over VHT Engine Case primer). For some reason, the final drive took the finish differently than the other cases, which is why I thought maybe Semi-Gloss would be good for the final drive. Overall, the Satin Black paint looks similar to the flat black powder - except on the final drive where the spray paint yielded an even flatter finish.

Are you going to strip out all the gears, bearings and seals from that? I have simply stripped off the old paint and used engine case spray paint (rattle-can) for a couple final drives. They came out nicely. FWIW - I used VHT brand satin black. A semi-gloss might look even better. The driveshaft collars are an easy powder-coat. Bubbles... for Champagne... I like it.

here is a clean low-mile GB500 on Craigslist: https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/mcy/d/phoenix-1990-honda-gb500-tourist-trophy/7443300180.html

Just FYI - The black (long) framed bikes' subframes have three arms that the red (short) frame bikes do not. Two down low and going forward to the engine block, and the third, which is probably more important to prevent rotating. The third support goes diagonally from lower right of transmission up to the actual frame where the side plate mounts. And back the original problem... it looks like adding the small brace to this particular greenie is going to be difficult due to the missing frame tab. However, I've wondered if you could hack the front arms off a black subframe and modify it to fit with only the supplemental diagonal brace. The circle flange on the black frame has a recess for the cross-brace, so this part wouldn't fit as-is on a red frame. I think you would need to have the upper left mounting tabs machined down to account for lack of the recess in the red frame, then maybe add material to be sure the mounting point is strong enough. Alternatively, I wonder if a cross brace could be welded to a red sub-frame. Then you'd just need longer bolts for the frame plates. If you're gonna weld, it makes sense to put in a stronger brace on a part that can be easily removed and reinstalled.

New steering bearings are in. That's my second time doing them - it's really quite fun with the freezing of the steering stem, heating up the bearing, dropping it in place and then seeing it pressure fit. But it's a one-shot deal. If it doesn't go all the way down, you're probably hosed. And seating the races in the frame is fun. Had the lower triple clamp powder coated, along with the fairing frame, dash panel, and various brackets and baubles. Really happy with the powder-coat gloss-black bar-end weights. They were peeling a bit and now they look better than new. Test fit the Speedhuts for entertainment value. And question time... the Ohlins damper bracket is rubbing on the plastic air dam. I don't recall that being the case on my previous LeMans. Do they all do that? I checked the parts diagrams and can't find anything I did wrong. It doesn't seem to affect the operation, since the bracket only moves a little in relation to the plastic part. But if I missed something, I'd like to correct it. And another question... this one is just curiosity, not a problem to solve. Earlier in this thread I asked about removing the center of the rear wheel. I assumed it would come out since there is a huge spring clip that appears to be holding it in place. I had to spend some time with the Dremel removing powder so the spring clip would seat properly. But I found myself wondering why that spring clip is there at all. Can somebody explain the rationale behind this spring clip?

Might also get drill shavings in your engine oil since the oil breather goes through the frame.

Wheels and bar-end weights in gloss black... and two boxes of goodies in flat black...

Interesting - I wonder if somebody just got the mold or made a new one. I was disoriented at first because the house is upside down in the pictures. (oil drain hole is one top). If I had a cracked tranny, I'd be willing to give that a try.

Nice GS. Interested to see how the chops come out. My powder coater called today and asked me to swing by and approve their masking. I found a few small threaded bits they had overlooked. Can't wait to see the wheels in gloss black.

Wait a minute. What do you mean local pronunciations? Tehachapi is in California and Tonopah is in Nevada. And it would a nice ride between them.

Sorry to Laurent about your transmission, but thanks for posting it so we can all get a free lesson in mechanical engineering. In retrospect, it seems Moto Guzzi solved this problem by stiffening up the subframe and adding the arms to the block. But it could have been solved with a change to the mold for the transmission case, and changes to the final machining of the contact surfaces. Interesting. And lest we forget, this was Moto Guzzi's first 6-speed, and it was the best transmission they had ever built at the time.

Seems there are two issues: 1) leaking, and 2) structural integrity. I've not heard of a gearbox actually breaking in use. I've only heard of cracks and related leaks. So if the concern is just the leak for now (is it even leaking?), you could probably use JB Weld or QuickSteel to cover the crack and stop the leak. Then later, if you want it welded, the welder can remove that stuff.

Assuming you decide to keep the bike, absolutely get one of those transmission braces. I agree on having the case repaired. It would be a good time to renew all the seals, and check the other internals for wear. Also a good time to inspect the clutch and replace anything that is close to its wear limit. But given the 87,000 kms it might be cheaper in the long run to find a spare, low-mile transmission. Since the search might take a while, you could just ride it sparingly this summer and queue up the project for next winter. If you do find a suitable spare, your cracked one still has value as it can be repaired and rebuilt.

Oddly, they seem to aim the reader at the later V11 models, but feature a greenie with an aftermarket fairing. There are a few other desirable (to me) models on the list. I look at the old Honda VFRs sometimes, as well as the slab-side Ducati 900SS. I damn near bought an older imported Africa Twin once, the originals were never sold in the US. I've never really tried to make a profit on motorcycles - just try to enjoy them and maybe break even when I sell the ones I've improved. For Moto Guzzi, I think the Sport and LeMans badges will start to generate more of a premium and the newer models' (late 1980s to early 2000's) values will get pulled up by people who are priced out of the 1970s-early 80s models. For example, my 1989 LeMans 1000 was a fraction of the cost of an early 850 LeMans. If it goes up in value, great. But if it goes down or stays the same, that's fine too, I can still ride it. I suppose if anyone on this forum has an investment-grade portfolio of V11s it would be Twin AH. @Twin AH maybe we could get some pics of that collection of pristine and unmolested examples? You know, the results of all those "wanted" topics you've posted?

Your Tenni should have the same washer. It's an uncommon size. I didn't mail your shift springs yet, so if I have a spare washer, I'll toss it in.

The sliver plates look great. Subtle, understated, classy. Maybe loosen everything again, including the bolts on the front of the subframe that go into the engine block. Jiggle the subframe and plates a bit so it settles into an ideal position. When installing the plates I like to get everything in loose first, including the brake pedal pivot. Then take a few passes on all the frame plate fasteners, gradually increasing tightness. As a final step, tighten the bolts back into upper subframe (seat support) and the engine block. The long arms to the block will flex more than any other part of the subframe, tightening those last allows you to perfectly position the main section between the plates.

Whack it a while and see if settles down. Seriously, if you tap the castings around the four u-joint caps it may loosen up a bit, and you can force a bit of fresh grease through it as well.

Flat black powder coating generously applied to pork chops and many other bits. Candy apple red plates and covers on Champagne. Close up of those same candy-red plates that I migrated to the Nero Corsa.

I've never done my own media blasting or powder coating. I use a local shop. All they ask is that parts are stripped of seals and bearings and totally degreased. They strip the old finish off as part of the service. If you're referring to the deep-looking finish of the candy-apple parts I had done, that was a multi-stage powder coat and more expensive than the flat black. Chemical and mechanical for getting powder coat out of threads - stripper plus run a bolt through the treads with the stripper still in.

I've had one set powder coated flat black and another candy apple red. I recommend it for durability, looks, and ease of cleaning. The only problem is if they get a little powder in the fine threads for the swingarm pivots. Ask the powder coater to be extra careful with the masking there. If they do get powder on the threads, I found that Rust Oleum's Aircraft Remover will dissolve it. Just dab it in the threads with a Q-tip, wipe out the worst of it, then run one of the pivot pins all the way through from the inside. BTW - that Aircraft Remover is the only chemical that has damaged the epoxy coating on my garage floor.

That's a good chart. It would seem that most O-rings on motorcycles are Nitrile. But those green ones on the oil line fittings must be Highly Saturated Nitrile. And the seals in brake calipers and pistons must be Ethylene Propylene. What kind of O-ring can seal a rabbit hole?

I try to flush all the hydraulics (brakes and clutch) annually, which means sometimes they go up to two years between flushes. This is often overlooked, so it's one of the first things I do when I get a pre-owned vehicle. With the wheel on, flushing the fluid is a time-sucking annoyance and very difficult for one person unless you have long arms. You can also install a speed-bleeder there. But it will still be a PITA to get the hose on the bleeder and another PITA to get a tool on it. FWIW, I like the Motul 5.1 fluid for its high boiling point - not that I always need it, but I can use the brakes all I want on long descents without worrying about fade.

So first. I LOVE that this is happening in the laundry room. Answers and observations: Side panels usually fit well, but some can be a bit fiddly. They do tuck under the tank, so even if all the screws rattle out, they will not blow away while riding. The back of the tranny and subframe are quite a mess... have fun with that. And while you're at it, check that lower shock mount carefully. It looks like the original Sachs, which is prone to crack the lower mount. That hugger damage is common. My Nero Corsa came with a rear rack that used extra-long bolts and mangled the rear wheel hugger. This would be a good time to install one of those remote clutch bleeder hoses if you feel like spending $70. Otherwise, this is a good time to flush the clutch fluid while you can easily reach the bleeder.