Scud

My Husqvarna 701 Enduro is ready for it's 600 mile break-in service. Here's a video that my daughter and I made from yesterday's 150 mile loop. The first 50 miles from Surf (Sea Level) to Snow (6,000 feet)... The prior weekend, I took it on a 200 mile desert loop including some deep sand and steep rocky stuff. Dropped it twice (once in sand, once in rocks). The bash-guards did their job, but prevention is better than protection, so a steering stabilizer is on the way. Other planned mods: ABS Dongle (turns off Rear ABS) Tubliss tire system (120 psi inner bladder acts as 360-degree rim lock and allows low pressure in outer chamber). Overall - this is as close as I've ever experienced to the "one bike that can do it all."

And there we go... saving the world, one V11 at a time.

Hahaha... enjoy. I have an old wiring harness. I can check to see if the original fasteners are still on the fuse block.

Ha... little frustrations from prior owners, along with the Guzzi quirks makes for great entertainment. The irony here, of course, is that you don't even need to undo that. The fuse bloc just pops in and out without tools.

1. There's a one-page list of torque values near the front of the shop manual. It goes by thread size though, not by the size of the tool required to turn it. It has all the standard size threads listed. 2. Support underneath with a platform jack is a good idea - I don't recall if it it's "needed" but I would use one. 3. The plug on the lower right side of bike can stay in. The similar spot on the lower left takes the big sidestand bolt. so you will need to remove the sidestand as part of the "fun." 4. That alternator torque spec should be on the page I mentioned above. BTW - I use an app called "converter plus" on my phone. It has torque settings. So you can type in NM from the middle of the range and get a mid-range lb-ft number back.

Nicely set up for touring. That red is so cool in person (and nearly impossible to photograph). Good luck with the sale.

Good stuff. Do the Tenni and the RC have the same tires? a 170 vs a 180 on the back can also make it feel lighter and nimbler.

Here's the ordering information again in case anybody else needs it. Springs: $10.00 each Shipping via USPS to: USA: $5.00 Canada: $10.00 Australia/NZ: $15.00 Europe: $15.00 Other places: I didn't get prices, but let's assume $15.00 and I'll let you know if that's not enough. Payment Methods: PayPal - use scudder.tim(at)gmail(dot)com Please pay as a friend to avoid fees. Check - send me a PM and I will give you my address. However you pay, please give me your full shipping address with payment (even if you think I might already have it) and tell me how many springs you want.

I like that Rosso a lot. Always thought the plain red LeMans looked better than the diamond decals on the Rosso. But I do like the grey tail on it with the Rosso Script. Will this be your first proper ride on a V11 with Ohlins suspension? Do report...

Fixed it for ya. Careful what you wish for though - if you do get one, make sure all the "Scura issues" have been addressed or the price is low enough for you to address them yourself. The stock crossover needed to be persuaded off... and the FBF needed some "encouragement" to get all the way on. The FBF and Ti makes such a nice sound. I might have to bell the intakes. I have emptied some mandrels. I love having the pipes up high and tight - and seeing more of the driveline and swingarm. Hey, by the way, I'm quite fond of the this little rolling shop stool / tool box. I sold my Harbor Freight motorcycle lift, because I'm still a roll-around-on-the-floor guy. This little toolbox holds all the basics and keeps the floor clear of tools. And the side trays that fold down have some (weak) magnets that help with small steel parts.

I put my FBF Crossover and Titanium exhaust (with high-hangers) on the Scura. How funny that I got these pipes for my red LeMans... then the Green tart stole them... then the darkness finally prevailed. She lost 11.5 pounds and sounds lovely. I also put a titanium slip-on on the Husky 701. Ironic that it also has wings on it (Wings is the Australian manufacturer). She lost 6 precious pounds and sounds like a vicious big thumper now - she sounded a bit tame with the ponderous stock pipe.

Did you say Moto Guhzi in the English way instead of Moto Gootzi in the Italian way? Looks like a fun group and some sweet machinery. I like that BSA.

All the orders I got as of yesterday are on the way. I have tracking numbers, so if you don't see the package in a reasonable amount of time let me know. Still have lots of springs. Order details are on the previous page.

Here is the problem with tab being too long. The spring in the background stays fixed against a post when the lever moves, and the little tab on our spring hits it. Here is a chopped one, which clears it. It could even be a little shorter - the thickness of the steel is 0.15" (gosh it just seems wrong to not use metric). And here is how my dirt-biker shop works (compare to previous images of Chuck's shop). But this little scissor clamp on a dirt bike service stand made it possible to chop 150 springs in less than an hour. I used three clamps and just squeezed the spring in with one hand while cutting with the other. Thanks, everyone for coming through on the spring orders and payments. I'm enjoying the comments in the PayPal notes and messages, but not replying to all of them. Just packed up 16 boxes... most with multiple springs. Still have plenty of springs left.

No special tools required. You just have to be able to lock the engine to get the nut off (and to set torque to reinstall). I put the bike in gear and stuck a board through the rear wheel so it the swingarm would stop any possible movement. There is a little key that goes in a slot on the crankshaft. Here's a link to the parts diagram at Harpers: http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/1990-2000-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-sport-mandello-1100-1999-2001/generator-regulator-en-v11-sport-mandello.html

Aw c'mon... you've got a whole bunch of competent advisors here who can guide you, step-by-step, if you post pics of what you're doing. And think of all the Grateful Dead songs you can play while you do the work. But as a temporary fix, you could try this: Do the foot powder thing again and find out exactly where it is leaking. Give that area a serious degrease and dry it. Force a little grey sealant (such as Threebond 1184) into the affected and surrounding area. This strategy slowed down a timing cover leak on my Scura until I had time to deal with it properly. But it makes more of a mess to clean up later and could remove some paint. I didn't care, because the Scura was already molting it's engine paint like old snake skin. Of course, if you find out the leak is coming from an upper sump gasket, that's really easy to do properly. Barely more work than an oil change if you are a "pan-dropper."

Yes - rotor comes off. To remove the timing cover, you will need to get a bunch of stuff out the way first - horns, voltage regulator, etc. You will need to remove the stator, and then the rotor. Be sure to store them together so they do not de-magnetize. I think there are some detailed threads here about replacing the cover. Perhaps one by Czakky? You could separate this into two smaller projects, depending on where you believe the leak is coming from. I would suspect the timing cover gasket as the source, rather than the sump gaskets. But you risk duplicating some work if you choose this approach.

I would like to encourage you to replace gaskets, rather than use a "stop-leak" type of oil additive. You could clean the engine again - then reapply the foot powder at the seams you missed before. But If I was in this situation, I would just get four gaskets: The timing cover (front case) - and get the metal (not paper) gasket if you can Two upper sump gaskets One lower sump gasket And for the "while you're there" stuff: a Cam position sensor O-ring and a crankcase breather hose (unless you have replaced those recently). You could also replace the seal on the timing cover while you have it out. And an oil filter... Replacing those gaskets probably requires only about 40 bolts and can be done in the length of any four Grateful Dead albums. Then you should be good to go for a long while.

Yeah, grumble about the bit being too long (but that's better than too short). However, there's no way I'm sending out any springs that cannot be installed as-is. While I appreciate the offers of help, It should go very fast once I get I get a guide set up. I'll drop by the hardware store and get some Dremel cut-off wheels. At long last, here are the ordering details: Springs: $10.00 each Shipping via USPS to: USA: $5.00 Canada: $10.00 Australia/NZ: $15.00 Europe: $15.00 Other places: I didn't get prices, but let's assume $15.00 and I'll let you know if that's not enough. Payment Methods: PayPal - use scudder.tim(at)gmail(dot)com Please pay as a friend to avoid fees. Check - send me a PM and I will give you my address. However you pay, please give me your full shipping address with payment (even if you think I might already have it) and tell me how many springs you want. As for finances, I've spent close to $600 so far. I should be able to recover that pretty soon. If all the springs sell, I'll have money leftover for a forum donation, a gift for Chuck (who keeps refusing to take any money) and maybe even a tire for the Scura.

I think most (if not all) the ECUs were installed that way on the red-frame bikes. They are easy to flip over if that's your preference. It got so cold here that we decided to use our heater in our home. And it snowed in the mountains. We visit the seasons... the seasons don't visit us. So I am scheming on how to accomplish a sea-to-snow ride this weekend. [docc-edit: And he did, he did! http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20154&p=230755]

Looks like we are *almost* there. The measurements check out. My random sample yeilds: Coil ID ranges from 0.665 inches to less than 0.677 inches (spec is 0.66 minimum) Long and short arm lengths are very close to specs on Chuck's drawing The angle of the short arm ranges from 21 to 25 degrees. Spec is 15 degrees, but this is closer to spec than the first batch (many over 30 degrees), and seems to be acceptable. The springs are going to "relax" a bit after being installed anyway. And here's the reason for the *almost* The right angle tab from the short arm is too long. This is the part that rests on the "shoulder" of the stamped steel piece. The spec is 0.24" but some are over .40". This causes interference with another spring when everything is installed. The solution seems simple enough (though a bit tedious). I just need to cut the tabs down to length. The spring steel is quite hard though, so I think maybe a cut-off wheel is needed - or a special cutter, like a mini bolt-cutter. I have to use both hands to cut the springs with a standard wire cutter. So... once I chop off 100 or so little bits we should be good to go.

I've had a few inquiries from members here and on Wild Guzzi. I'm getting a little more active about selling it now. I am sharing it with the "Moto Euro Breakfast Club" and here is the Craigslist ad: https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/mcy/d/2000-moto-guzzi-v11-sport/6514009731.html

Good stuff Chuck. I'm going to mount a new spring in my spare pre-selector tonight, then I will update the spring thread that Docc linked to above.

I saw that on WildGuzzi too, but hadn't responded yet. On the surface, that seems like a good bike at a reasonable price, especially if you like all the accesories. The painted-to-match LeMans fairing looks great and was not cheap to do. The tach may or may not be fixable, but used ones are available sometimes - or you could replace both gauges with Speedhuts or other aftermarket gauges. Is it truly pampered like the ad says? Have the throttle body boots been replaced? How about the fuel lines? Has he added the supplemental transmission brace? And if no brace, is the transmission case cracked at the rear, upper mount? Does it still have the original shock? And if so, is the lower mount cracked? I was surprised that the lower shock mount was cracked on my Greenie with only 5,000 miles on it. The good news, per the ad, is that the current owner has put 3,000 miles on it. That's enough to allow any nasty issues to surface.

All good suggestions above. You can also check to make sure the bolts on the timing cover and oil sump are tight. But if you're getting that much of a mess after 100 miles, you should probably only ride 1/2 mile with a clean and "powdered" engine.