Scud

There are some very well informed people on Wildguzzi.com - with a lot more experience across the marque. You might do well to ask there. Or get a copy of Guzziology, which has tons of specs and might be useful for this and other questions.

I expanded the male pins on the yellow wires of the new regulator and cleaned the female connectors. But it still doesn't seem to make a good fit. Started the bike and still got 13v charging at the battery. So the Scura missed another ride today. Instead, I rode the Husky over the Main Divide Road (dirt) on Saddleback mountain to a fathers day gathering in Orange County. I think that this weekend I will install a Maxi 30-amp fuse holder and figure out stronger connectors for the voltage regulator (mine are deformed a bit but not as bad as Marty's picture. The bullets really do seem like a problem. I should probably pull the tank and inspect the rest of the wiring loom... and while I'm there, I could bell the intake snorkels on the airbox to get more induction noise. And in OC, I finally got to ride my nephew's MV Augusta F4. Wow. Love the sound of that engine under full load. And it's fairly quick... Kevin - how's the Greenie treating you?

And the brakes were working perfectly before this? Like Thumper says, it's probably worth trying again to get rid of any possible air. After that, I dunno... weird that it holds pressure, then doesn't.

Inspected stator - connections seem solid. Installed Electrosport ESR515 voltage regulator (the plug-and-play one). However, I did find that the female ends for the bullet connectors for the two yellow wires on the loom are quite hard, and they fit very loose. They are even looser with new regulator. But I taped them up tight and started the bike. It's charging at only 13v. And I noticed that the connections on the yellow wires got much warmer than the other connectors - and quickly. So... methinks there is some arcing going on in there and that I need different types of connectors. Does that make sense?

Can you try that with the front wheel off the ground? If the lever gets pressure again, see if the wheel will turn while the lever has pressure. If so, you probably have a blocked line.

Yup - THAT was the stern warning I saw somewhere recently. I think I may have screwed the pooch by charging the battery via the handy cable I installed. I'll swap the regulator and report back.

Thanks for posting the picture. What I wrote makes no sense - please disregard. There are three bolts on each side of the subframe (6 total). And... when you really look closely, the engine block is not even attached to the frame. There are only two big bolts up front that attach the timing cover to the subframe. And the back of the engine only mounts to the transmission with about 6 studs and the starter bolts. This changed in 2002 when arms were added to the lower subframe - and the arms are connected directly to the block. However you count (or mis-count), those big bolts between subframe and timing cover seem pretty important.

I lost one of those main bolts from my Scura once. Shit a brick when I noticed it. Can you imagine the engine dropping out of the frame while you're riding? That would be a bad day. There are four bolts - two are easy to see and two are obscured by the tank.

I have added a supplemental ground wire from regulator case to the frame (under tank)... then from that spot on the frame directly to battery negative. To my way of thinking, this provides the best possible ground and protects the wiring loom even if the main ground to the transmission case works loose. Whereas a supplemental wire only to the case still relies on grounding through the main ground wire to tranny. One bit I neglected to mention above. I have been using my Battery Minder charger (which has a desulfation mode) with the battery in the bike. I have recently learned that charging the battery on the bike is a no-no for the regulator (this information has been available, but I hadn't payed close enough attention). This is why I am now suspicious of the regulator. The Battery Minder has 2, 4, and 8 amp options. I think I accidentally used the 8 amp a while ago. This makes me wonder if that was the cause of the deformed fuse. Thanks for the info on the tach. My Scura has the white-faced Veglia. I think I have read of that issue as well. When the tach goes, it could be the tach... or it could be the charging system.

Here's a series of events that is making me nervous about going any serious distance on my Scura. A couple months ago she quit running 1/2 mile from home. I found a slightly deformed (melted) 30-amp fuse. Swapped relays around and was able to restart and ride home. Replaced fuse, inspected various electrical connections, did some starts and stop in the garage, measured voltage at battery at idle and at 4,000 RPM (it was well over 13, but not 14 volts - can't remember exact numbers) Feeling comfortable and not seeing other problems I went out for a longer ride. I quickly noticed that my tachometer failed. Pulled over, swapped relays around, checked fuse, restarted bike, still no tach. Figured the tach coincidentally failed. Continued my ride. Went about 60 miles. Had another failure and had to put her on a truck to get home. Removed battery (which still had over 12 volts). Charged it with my Battery MINDer (fancy charge that has a specific AGM mode) - it's holding a charge at 12.8 after sitting for several weeks. Been busy... and riding other bikes while wishing I trusted the Scura. Today I reinstalled the battery and changed to different relays (I had been running the "higher-rated" Omrons with the skinny blades, but switched back to the Omrons with fatter blades which many of us have used for a long time). She fired right up, and the tach magically works again. Tested the charging at idle and 4,000 (13.9v cold) Went for a short ride. Tested the charging again at operating temperature and only got 13.0 volts at 4000 RPM. So..... that's a lot of detail, which I hope is enough for you electrical geniuses to advise me. Is the change in charge voltage (as measured at the battery) normal between cold and hot? Should I replace the regulator and do the same test (I have a new one still in box). What else do you need to know? I want to take her to San Felipe Mexico for fish tacos, but I just don't trust her right now.

Harpers has a great website, and shows the windsreen for the 2002 model. Not sure what you have on there. http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-le-mans-sport-naked-1100-2001-2002/naked-windshield-en-v11-lemans-sport-naked-2001-2002.html

FWIW, I use a small block of wood under the sidestand when I park in the garage. That means zero wear on the sidestand (even when idling), plus it keeps the bike a bit more upright, with less strain on the sidestand and mounting brackets.

Hey Chuck - There are lots of aftermarket sidestand extension plates that you could use as inspiration. Here's one example: https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Stainless-Kickstand-Extension-Universal/dp/B075T9NWWC/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1529158704&sr=8-13&keywords=motorcycle+kick+stand+plate

I've seen stands with similar wear. I think it's just from two things: 1) parking the bike. Each time you lean the bike over on the stand it slides a bit on the ground. 2) iding on the sidestand. I think this might be the larger cause of wear. Especially if the bike has a lumpy idle and the sidestand is on an abrasive surface such as brush-finish concrete.

Have you ever noticed that your shit is stuff, but other people's stuff is shit? Carlin was so brilliant.

Do tell... what matter of ephemera? Marketing literature? Impulse purchases? Bits and baubles? Special tools?

That one was discussed on WG recently. Consensus is that it's a 2002 Red-Grey LeMans that somehow got a Nero Corsa tank and tail.

Too damn funny. Subject line: "Need another bike" My reaction: "Don't we all?" Proud to be a member of this "enabling" support group.

Glad worked. Sorry to be late to the party, but I installed mine with the blade on... then I read somewhere how Pete Roper described installing it by removing the blade first (and installing the blade at the end.) If I ever do another, I will certainly remember that.

That's a fine idea, especially for a high-mileage bike. While you're at it, see about getting the two ends with opposite threads so you can actually adjust the length of the rod without disconnecting one end. La vie en rose.

Fixed it for ya.

Flat black powdercoating gives a finish that matches satin black paint. Some powdercoaters have a minimum price, so you can get a few other bits done at the same time for "free." Need ideas? Here's my ex-LeMans with some powercoated bits: Valve covers and guards Alternator cover Porkchops Footlevers footpegs and brackets Passenger pegs and brackets brake reservoir cover sidestand Lower subframe etc.

...just enough to sneak in a few shifts and get home. Nothing you'd want to rely on beyond that. Really - it's quite rewarding to know that the idea helped somebody. Thanks for mentioning it.

Hey, nice one. It looks to be complete and original, except for the red stripes on the rims, which I like a lot. Have fun getting to know her... and I assume riding home from TX to CO. If it was mine, I'd want to: Upgrade the shock Upgrade the steering damper Find some "early sport" hardware to mount the light and gauges to the triple clamps instead of the frame.

That was me with the hard-brake-to-shift technique. Glad it helped you get home. When you have the pre-selector out, you can see that the spring pushes the arm forward (and a broken spring allows it to flop backward). Therefore, hard braking can get the arm to flop forward into place for one shift. I still have a little box of the new "unbreakable" springs. Send me PM if you need one. US$10 per spring. Add US$5 shipping to US. Add US$15 shipping outside US.