Scud

Moto Guzzi parts catalogs only show the complete slave cylinder - not the component parts of it. The diagrams do show the O-ring for a secondary piston that rides in the rear transmission case, but that is not the O-ring in question. Maybe you could find a Grimeca rebuild kit to compare O-rings? By the way - I want to know more about the spring. I ass-u-me-d that a hydraulic clutch slave would work the same way as a brake caliper, which does not have a spring. Why would a clutch slave need a spring that would apply force in the same direction as the hydraulic pressure? I don't feel like taking a perfectly good one apart. Andy - do you still have the failed one from your bike? Can you pop the piston (probably just needs a puff of compressed air) and see if there's a spring behind it?

I used a digital caliper and rounded up to nearest mm. 40mm was actually 39.something; 38 was 37.something.

Outer diameter of cylinder is 40mm at base, and 38mm at the stepped part. The cylinder extends 18mm from the flat surface. 11mm for the thick part, and 7mm for the stepped part.

Well to answer that question, I'll have to get air in the system. But ok, I planned to flush out the fluid anyway. My questions: Where's that spring go and what's it supposed to do? Why two banjo bolts? (why no bleeder?) And the fasteners are different - which is probably good, because the original screws with allen heads are quite weak.

My Greenie's is dangling now. Post your measurements and I can compare - possibly late this evening.

I hope so too. The gear oil was pooling on the crossover, making for stinky, smoky starts. And now that I've been into a few of these 6-speeds, I don't fear them anymore. Tips if you ever have to split one: You do need the special tool to remove the nut from the input hub before pulling the gear stack out of the main case. You don't really need the transmission case holding tool (in the shop manual) The rear case and center case (that holds the gear stack) can be stubborn. I used a soft mallet and gentle leverage to start the separation. Then I used composite carpenters shims (not soft wood ones) to hold the gaps open as I worked around the cases to free them. (but still had to use a flat screwdriver between the cases in some spots) The toughest parts to separate are if sealant got into the alignment pins from original assembly. By the way - has anybody found a perfect match for the silver case paint? One of the cases is peeling. I have some silver VHT engine case paint that is close, but a bit brighter/bluer than the original.

The label on the box says Stornello. Is that subtle enough?

Tranny is split... don't see any evidence of cracks or other damage, but haven't cleaned it yet. A bolt near the suspected leak site came out with almost no effort. And Swoosh - I "went big" for the flickr photo.

That is clever - and probably less work and less expense than replacing the clutch line. I like what you're doing. Keep posting the progress.

He said he didn't have any more from the first run. He's using a different shop to cut the next batch, getting them powder-coated red, and supplying mounting hardware. Thanks again for taking the initiative when your bike was down. That should prevent problems for other people.

Thanks Czakky. JBBenson also has a Sachs leftover from his recent suspension upgrade and it's closer to home, so I'm gonna get that one. I also ordered a transmission brace. Don at MotiveCycleWorks, who fixed LowRyter's cracked tranny, is having another batch of the braces made. He thinks they'll be done (and powdercoated red) by middle of next week. For anyone else who is interested, here's his website: http://www.motivcycleworks.com/

Opened a Flickr account... here's my first photo. Cleared out the last of the dark green electrical tape from the wiring harness. Still no evidence of damage or modifications. Why did somebody feel the need to cut into the loom? I don't know. Flipped the ECU - also noticed that two vibration dampers were broken - so the ECU was a bit wobbly on the remaining two. Fortunately, I had some spare dampers on hand. It does seem more secure and protected this way. Sprayed Deoxit in every wire loom connection and re-connected. Cleaned the dirt off the shock to find a big (dangerous) crack in the lower shock mount. I should have caught that in the pre-purchase inspection. The Sachs shock commonly fails at the lower mount.

I ran some seafoam for about 10 miles of low-speed riding - and several heat/cool cycles in the neighborhood. I also ran some techron for a bit. since the bike sat for a while I am going to give the injectors a proper cleaning - and I'm wondering if I should pull the heads to clean the ports out and test for valve leakage.

California... land of fruits and nuts... producing over 90% of many of the nation's edible fruits and nuts (and vegetables too)... and possibly more than its fair share of people who are certifiably nuts (self included).

Yeah - photobucket has gotten really annoying lately. What picture-hosting site do you like? Here are bigger photos of the intakes. LH with the too-long screw plugging vacuum port - and natural light: RH with a shorter screw - and with some fluorescent light. I gave them a basic cleaning recently when I put the intake boots on - and the LH was much more stubborn.

Crabbing the frame was not so hard as I imagined. It's certainly the easiest way to get the transmission out. It does appear that the tranny is leaking from a seal, not a crack. I'll know for sure when I split the cases. I'm playing detective as I work, trying to figure out why it runs so poorly. Sometimes it's a combination of little things, rather than one glaring problem. So far, I've found: Exhaust leak as mentioned above - also evidence of an exhaust leak at the LH connection of header to crossover (black soot on engine case) One yellow wire for the regulator only partly pushed in (I could see the metal of the plug and it came out with almost no effort). The LH injector plug was not properly connected - the square metal spring wasn't properly seated and the plug was a bit looser than the other side. The LH intake manifold was plugged with a longer screw than the RH - it protrudes into the manifold. The LH head seems dirtier than the RH. How do these look to you? And in other news... the rear brake pads were almost to the metal - after 5,000 miles. Oh well, at least that means the fronts didn't get much use. And look at that pretty clutch.

Winter, Spring, Summer, Fall, Flood, Fire, and Drought.

Good idea to check the temp sensor. When I get the tranny out I will try to clean/test every electrical connection and sensor. I have found that the dash lights sometimes come on with the ignition, and sometimes don't - but the bike still starts even when the lights are out (even after cleaning ignition switch). The exhaust leak shouldn't be too hard - just some new gaskets and proper tightening. And the tranny leak - I'll just split it, clean it, and reseal it (assuming no cracks). LowRyter - I sent you a PM about the bracket. And on the exhaust for Tinitus - this 2000 model has the single-piece flanges. But I have seen the 3-piece crown with inserts - bought a set by mistake when I was trying to replace the crossover headers on my 2003 bike. I think the 3-piece was from a 1999 bike.

Hey, I see this is your first post, welcome. I think we need to see a little more about this Retro-LeMans V11... As for linked brakes, I dunno, but I'm not sure that it would be worth the effort. I barely even use the rear brake - the front brake is really good and I think a little engine braking is all the rear needs.

Yup. I rode by that fire, which was at about 2,000 feet elevation on the Western slope of the Sierras. About 50 miles later, I was at the pass at 9,000 feet - water was running across the road and there will still some small snowbanks in shady areas. The snow is year-round at about 12-14,000 feet. They're still skiing further North in the Sierras at Mammoth Mountain - 2 feet of snow at the base (9,000 feet) and 12 feet at the summit (11,000 feet). Then, when I dropped down the Eastern slope it got hot hot hot... in the Mojave Desert.

There are several fires burning in the Western US right now. I saw a crew checking a still-smoldering hillside in the Kern River Valley on Friday. And today there are two new fires in Southern CA, one North of LA and one along one of my favorite roads (Mesa Grande) in San Diego County.

So... I'm going in... The transmission leak is too bad to ignore - every time I start the bike I smell burning gear oil from the crossover. I'm almost ready to crab the frame - just gonna let a few bolts soak overnight. Hopefully, I can pull the tranny after work tomorrow. And that will leave me plenty of room to inspect the wiring harness. I already undid two of the three sections that had green electrical tape. Somebody had cut into the black sleeve around the harness, but I can find no evidence of damage or modifications. One more "green-tape" section to go, this one by the ECU. I also cleaned the ignition switch and replaced the bulb for the neutral light. Little by little... till we figure out what is causing the very bad running at about 3,500 RPM. Could it be from an exhaust leak (or two). Given the black on the RH pipe, this looks like a pretty big exhuast leak - I've heard these bike are very sensitive to exhuast leaks - but how does that show? Could this leak cause the bike to have severe sputtering (like fuel starvation)?

Good job missing mama. What are you doing to the Yamaha?

No - I just retrofitted the 2003 safety pin on a 2002. Bad things happen if the bolt backs out of the caliper carrier.

If you have the caliper off, you can unhook the brake line from the swingarm. The line is quite long and you can move it wherever you want - no need to remove muffler or anything else. Also try adding a speed-bleeder instead of the standard bleeder, you can flush a lot of fluid quickly with one of those. I have a spare rear caliper if you are interested.