raz Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 One quick question before I start the install. What is the proper torque on the upper sump bolts? Thanks Same as the others. M6, 10 Nm (7-8 lbft for Americanos). Or, much easier to remember, a quarter of a turn less than stripping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan M Posted March 5, 2008 Author Share Posted March 5, 2008 One quick question before I start the install. What is the proper torque on the upper sump bolts? Thanks Sigh... Just tighten them. If you feel the need to break out the torque wrench so you don't leave them loose or strip them out completely you can use this chart for "rule of thumb" torque values. http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/M_bolts.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland3210 Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 Schnorr washers are cheap insurance as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Schnorr washers are cheap insurance as well. A "what" washer???????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raz Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 A "what" washer???????????? http://www.schnorr.com/safetywashers.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeve Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 A "what" washer???????????? I believe that's the correct name[1] for the lock washers that look like little "suns," ie: w/ all the little twisty "rays" emanating from the edge of the washer [vs. the flat washer w/ a cut in it & bit of twist, that is the normal configuration of a "lock washer."] [EDIT] Doh! Someone just posted a link to the real deal! I was wrong, but happy to learn something new! [1] - Just as the proper name for the pressure grease fittings are "Zerk fittings" (not Zirk, Zerg, Zurq, or anything w/ a lower case "z"... ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest V11RossoNigel Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 Thanks Pete, Just in case you haven't read your messages. I have received the plate will fit as soon as I get a chance Thanks again for the prompt delivery. Cheers Nige Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polebridge Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 I finally got around to installing my Roper plate yesterday. Pretty straight forward job. Took me about two hours. I still notice however that, with the plate installed, my oil pressure will still drop under hard acceleration. It seems to me that it doesn't drop as quickly as it did before but I was hoping that the plate would keep it from dropping altogether. Oh well. I will take whatever gains I get. I glad I made the install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 When you were installingthe plate, did you make not of where on the oil dipstick you oil level should really be. I could be wrong but I seem to recall the dipstick not being to accurate to begin with and then the plate changes it a little more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Schnorr is a brand. They are also called tapered, toothed belleville washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 I finally got around to installing my Roper plate yesterday. Pretty straight forward job. Took me about two hours. I still notice however that, with the plate installed, my oil pressure will still drop under hard acceleration. It seems to me that it doesn't drop as quickly as it did before but I was hoping that the plate would keep it from dropping altogether. Oh well. I will take whatever gains I get. I glad I made the install. This is interesting and contrary to the expeience of myself and others. What sort of pressure guage are you using? Is it a mechanical type or one with an electronic sender? The reason I ask is because current draw tends to increase when the engine is under heavy load. If the guage uses an electronic sender then the drop in pressure may be related to this. Another possibility is that you already have damaged or ovalized bearings and when extremely heavily loaded pressure drop off will be higher than when running under light load. If there is a significant drop off I'd be looking for another cause. The plate is there to prevent pick up exposure. Pressure should be good or, if the pick-up is exposed, non existant! If it's simply dropping off a bit then I think it's something else. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polebridge Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 This is interesting and contrary to the expeience of myself and others. What sort of pressure guage are you using? Is it a mechanical type or one with an electronic sender? The reason I ask is because current draw tends to increase when the engine is under heavy load. If the guage uses an electronic sender then the drop in pressure may be related to this. Another possibility is that you already have damaged or ovalized bearings and when extremely heavily loaded pressure drop off will be higher than when running under light load. If there is a significant drop off I'd be looking for another cause. The plate is there to prevent pick up exposure. Pressure should be good or, if the pick-up is exposed, non existant! If it's simply dropping off a bit then I think it's something else. Pete Thanks for the reply Pete. I am using John Mickowski's (Ryland1321) guage which runs off of an oil line. I wouldn't say the drop is significant and I think that it drops more slowly that it did without the plate. I would say that without the plate I could see pressure drop from say 60 down to 40 pretty quickly in first gear. With plate installed I would say that it drops slower and doesn't quite get down that low anymore. When the weather is nice, I will experiment a bit more and report my observations. The bike seems to be running great! It's strange but it seems like it runs better with the plate installed. Maybe it's just the fact that I change the oil and filter while I was at it? I'll keep you posted. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Various people have mentioned that their bikes seem to run better with the plate in. I hope this is the case and I can see some reasons why this might be so but it wasn't the purpose the plate was designed for. If they do run better? Bonus! Since your guage is a mechanical type I can't see any reason why the pressure should drop providing everything is OK. The pump should pick up at a constant rate and once up to pressure the limiting factor should be the crack pressure of the oil preeure relief valve (OPRV.) which on Guzzi big blocks should be about 55-60 Lbs PSI. Things I can think of might be the previously mentioned damaged or ovalized bearings or perhaps as the pump works harder air is being drawn in before the pump or oil is being forced out of the galleries after the pump. Are the o-rings on the thermostat/filter housing in good condition? Another possibility is that the pump itself is somehow damaged or running excessive clearance. While the engine is obviously working fine at the moment if it were mine I'd be popping the timing chest off and having a looksee to try and identify if there was a problem with the pump and if that checked out I'd be dropping the big end caps for a squizz at the shells. Did you ever see the 'Flickering oil light of death' prior to the installation of the plate? pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polebridge Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Various people have mentioned that their bikes seem to run better with the plate in. I hope this is the case and I can see some reasons why this might be so but it wasn't the purpose the plate was designed for. If they do run better? Bonus! Since your guage is a mechanical type I can't see any reason why the pressure should drop providing everything is OK. The pump should pick up at a constant rate and once up to pressure the limiting factor should be the crack pressure of the oil preeure relief valve (OPRV.) which on Guzzi big blocks should be about 55-60 Lbs PSI. Things I can think of might be the previously mentioned damaged or ovalized bearings or perhaps as the pump works harder air is being drawn in before the pump or oil is being forced out of the galleries after the pump. Are the o-rings on the thermostat/filter housing in good condition? Another possibility is that the pump itself is somehow damaged or running excessive clearance. While the engine is obviously working fine at the moment if it were mine I'd be popping the timing chest off and having a looksee to try and identify if there was a problem with the pump and if that checked out I'd be dropping the big end caps for a squizz at the shells. Did you ever see the 'Flickering oil light of death' prior to the installation of the plate? pete Yes Pete. The light came on once but only briefly. Do I need to fill more oil in the sump? I put in just about 4 Liters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland3210 Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 Yes Pete. The light came on once but only briefly. Do I need to fill more oil in the sump? I put in just about 4 Liters. With the Roper Plate, you can go to 4.5 quarts, including filter replacement. Check the FAQ section for details on the dipstick calibration. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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