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Portaferry, Ards Peninsula shore road


belfastguzzi

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BFG? How many miles you gotta on your 8V now? Has your top end exploded yet, (If you'll pardon the term :o ) I have to say its absolutely amazing what a ranting f#cktard on the internet can do. If you go over to Guzzitech one bloke, single handedly, has put more people off buying an 8V than anybody has put people off buying a Guzzi before. Friggin' brilliant.

 

The new motor is a gem in my book, mine gets thrashed, really like 'Red Line' thrashed regularly and I'm working on getting the FI better so I can thrash it harder. It's been faultless, and I've almost been willing it to blow up so I can actually analyse the problem myself. No such luck, so I have to take it in the neck from piss-wits and watch the company, even though it is no longer an independent company, get it in the neck, again.

 

Who's for a Punchin' Party??? :angry:

 

Pete

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Dave, a couple of things. Get your pipe gastight, especially around the joints from the headers to the Y piece as the O2 sensor will screw things up in the closed loop phase if it's getting oxygen in with air, especially *upstream*. I've had this problem and it is neither Todd or Price's fault, it's due to the fact that the gaskets on those joints on the original set-up being so soft and flexible that actual pipe diameter could be all over the place. I know Price modified his next pipe to *your* dimensions and they didn't fit my bike. It's hard to make an aftermarket pipe for something that seems to have the tollerances of a piece of semi-flattened roadkill :lol: . I bought some shimstock and made shims to fit mine up and the relied on a nice coating of hi-temp silastic. Lets face it, the stuff is bugger all use for anything else.

 

Next? Get the second map in there. If you've seen my dyno pull on Guzzitech you'll know the 2nd map is far from perfect but it is a Shirtload better the the stocker. I now no longer have any popping or stupidness at all apart from the transition point from where the ECU sees the throttle as fully closed and when it starts seeing it as opening. at that point, on downhills as you feather the throttle you can get it to pop. otherwise? Normal, just like a real motorbike! :D .

 

Pity that you didn't get a chance to show what its capable of. If it had been me I'd probably had it one gear lower and revved it a bit more at most of the road speeds shown but you are of course in the UK/Ireland, the roads are tiny and highly trafficked (Sp??) compared to here so that simply may not of been filmable. I wear ear plugs all the time and the more restrictive the better but get that motor on song, above 5,500, with that pipe and good ear plugs and the effect is sublime!!!!

 

pete

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a nice coating of hi-temp silastic... etc

yes I need to seal a bit of a gap. Is there a particular make / brand of high temp silastic for exhausts? Do you ask for 'silastic' at the shop? A step up from Gun Gum, I take it.

 

I also need to get the second map installed.

The motor hasn't blown up yet.

 

Funny, re the revs. I wondered the same thing on watching the video back – I thought I could have had it in lower gear and higher revs. Having said that, it felt fine at the time, on the road. Some people have argued here that these bikes don't work at down around 3,000 rpm and shouldn't be used there because it is bad for them, but as you can see, a lot of the time I was between 2k and 4k. It's not that feasible to be running above 5k/6k on those roads. They are small and you don't know what is around each corner: there can be someone walking a dog, or a Range Rover in the middle of the road. Quite often I've gone into a blind corner and there has been a car cutting into the corner towards me, on my side of the road. It's the main hazard of these narrow roads, along with loose surface – but they do make a beautiful ride.

 

I don't know which video you watched. I've just looked at the short one, Part 1, and indeed the revs look like they're hovering around 2k - 3k on that bit of road!

 

There's another vid here, with a few more open stretches of road http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=B4enbSpnWyw – but it still begs the same question... lower gear / higher revs?

 

There's another aspect to this matter – what should be put on Youtube and what should not? I think you saw the video from when I originally installed the pipe. It covers a wider rev range. I haven't put the earlier videos on Youtube because it may not be wise to do so. I don't know: anyone else got thoughts on that? In fact I cut some bits out of the Portaferry videos because I thought that they may look bad to some viewers. Better to be cautious?

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What type of pipe did you install??

It's a GT-Rx, bought from Todd at the Guzzitech site.

There's an older thread on it somewhere – I'll have a look...

never mind, it just points to the video here

which is even more noisy as it doesn't have the pipe-end insert. You can see what it looks like in the vid.

 

Edit

very short vid here, shows pipe.

 

Edit 2

This one has more of the high rev sound that Pete was lusting after. The end of this video shows what it looks like with the insert.

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yes I need to seal a bit of a gap. Is there a particular make / brand of high temp silastic for exhausts? Do you ask for 'silastic' at the shop? A step up from Gun Gum, I take it.

 

Nah, just look at the tube or applicator, the one I use is supposed to be good to 350*C which for this area is pushing the envelope a bit but it seems to work. I simply bought some shimstock and cutit to length and wrapped it around the ends of the headers until they were just able to squeeze into the Y piece with a bit of judicious tapping with a hide mallet. Then as they were about half way on I put a goodly smear of wonder-snot around the shimstock and tapped the Y piece home before tightening the clamps and then wiping off the excess snot.

 

I did this first time around and didn't use quite enough shimstock. The pipe must of still been able to move slightly as the shimming eventually broke up. I suggested to Price that he flare the ends of the Y piece so that the original kingerlite or whatever they are Guzzi pipe gaskets can be used. It won't look so neat but they seal well and that is important if the O2 sensor isn't to get a false mix and therefore screw with the closed loop trim.

 

I'd been down the coast over the holidays and because I always ride with ear plugs in I hadn't noticed the pipe rattling but did think that the bike was feeling harsher and leaner than normal and had started backfiring a bit more on the over-run. Once it was sealed up again it returned to being its usual raucous abut enjoyable self. Pipe sealing is very important.

 

Dunno if you saw the graph on Guzzitech? The AFR at full throttle is woefull, even with the second map almost all the way through the rev range. it starts off horribly lean and then after about 4,500-5,000 it plunges into a sort of hydrocarbon hell of richness, (To protect us from ourselves don'tcha know! we wouldn't be able to cope with the extra 5-7HP it would make if it fueled up correctly :rolleyes: ). Still 96RWHP aint to shabby for a starting point. In the next couple of weeks I hope to be able to start mucking around with map modifications. I'm getting mixed messages about the PCV and whether it will be available for Guzzis or even W5AM equipped Ducatis. If the worst comes to the worst I suppose I'll have to buy one of the map writer programmes and start from scratch :unsure:

 

Pete

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What type of pipe did you install??

 

Dave's bike is essentially the same as mine. The pipe we got from Todd does work, and it will work better once the fueling is sorted, but it is ear bleedingly loud. I do have the dB killer but haven't installed it yet as I simply don't want anything that will richen up the top end further but I might experiment next week if I get the time. Mine also has the #2 map in which makes a big difference especially at low RPM/small throttle. On my bike with the original map and pipe it used to hunt and 'Microsurge' at small throttle openings in the 2500-3750RPM range which was a real pain as that is of course where one tends to ride in traffic and built up areas. Second map virtually cures that. Mine runs much better when the ambient temp is hotter than it does when it is cooler too. The air temp compensation, (And I think the engine temp compensation.) is all screwy and will have to be addressed at some point. I find it runs best when ambient is between 23 and about 27 degrees C, (Although it ran great when ambient was 38*C as well come to think of it.) so I'm thinking of elliminating the ATS and simply puting a resistor in to see how that works.

 

Pete

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... I'm thinking of elliminating the ATS and simply puting a resistor in to see how that works.

 

Pete

Do keep us informed of progress. The sooner Jaap opens an 'other models' Forum here, the better. Perhaps once he starts riding that Sport...?

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Re earlier questions about the video encoding and poor quality... I came across this piece of advice. So a constantly bouncing and shaking camera on a motorbike was the big problem.

 

"When you move the camera, every pixel in every frame changes constantly, and this is very hard to compress. The more pixels that are repeated, the smaller the size of the file. By limiting movement, you can increase the efficiency of compressing your footage, and reduce the file size for faster playback. Use a tripod and/or stabilizer to limit camera movement."

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