dlaing Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 so... amp superseal conectors mounted, new regulator installed - charging 14V on idle with lights and 14.5 in higher revs - I guess that is ok but: no oil light after powering the ignition and rpm meter is dead... what should be? I have focused mainly on charging wires, haven!t touched anything else If the horn and brake light are also dead, look to relays. If not, look to ground at tachometer body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Just a suggestion which may not have any relevance but try running another earth wire to the battery negative, use a big, thick, wire from somewhere on the block, (Like a bell housing bolt.) to the battery. Then add another suplementary earth, (A lightweight wire for this should be fine.) from the computer and the reg/rec to the block as well. While it may not be the case 99% of all shitty problems that aren't relay related are going to be earth path related. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.) Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 Just a suggestion which may not have any relevance but try running another earth wire to the battery negative, use a big, thick, wire from somewhere on the block, (Like a bell housing bolt.) to the battery. Then add another suplementary earth, (A lightweight wire for this should be fine.) from the computer and the reg/rec to the block as well. While it may not be the case 99% of all shitty problems that aren't relay related are going to be earth path related. Pete will do Peter! thx! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guzzi2Go Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Hi Slavek, ERROR/EDIT: It is the black wire that is ground! Yellow/black is tach signal! Corrections bellow. two wires to check: Yellow/Black and Red/Black both "docked" on the tach. Yellow/Black is earth/minus. Take ohm-meter, or even better diode/tester, unplug the wire from the tach and check the resistance. Good earth resistance does not exceed 1 ohm. Red/Black is power/plus running from tach (powering oil, petrol, generator lights and the tach itself). This wire comes directly from the regulator, but it takes a couple of turns through (not literally) various switches and relays. Measure resistance between tach positive connector, and (if possible) where red/black of the wiring loom and black of the alternator meet. Should not exceed few ohm. You can also measure a voltage drop between these two points while engine is running. Should be close to 0V. Looking at the schematics, it is a bit odd that oil light and tach do not work, but generator and petrol (does it?) lights do. This would imply that powering is OK (since they all source power from the same line - red/black), and that you have simultaneous outage of black/yellow and black/blue earth paths. If these two come together on some point on the bike (frame/battery minus?), then this could be it- you need better earthing. If there is only one point where all earth wires meet, then petrol light should not work either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.) Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 guzzi2go, between those two wires on tach you!ve mentioned is just slightly under 1 ohm. also, light fuse keep blowing immediately, no horns, brake light and etc. Indicators are running fine starting, charging but still no oil and charge light... (I assume I can live without these two, oil check after every ride, as normal). all connectors are clean, cables tight. Negative pole of battery connected directly to the frame, cables are not damaged. I really dont know where to look now No way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murray Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 Clearly something is shorted in the light circuit with the aid of a mutimeter on resitance check I'd start disconnecting globes in the lighting circuit till it goes this will give you an idea where it is. NB as globes are desiged to draw current the resitance for the circuit will be very low to begin with. Do you have the lights hard wired on or are they on a switch? If they are on a switch and the fuse blows with the switch off then the short is before the switch. Might be worthing going through the switch blocks as these do fill up with water and road grime over time and don't work well as they do clean. Just be carful as there a springs and ballbearings in the contacts which are quiet happy to jump out and disappear down the nearest drain never to be seen again (do it over a bucket if you are worried about it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guzzi2Go Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 guzzi2go, between those two wires on tach you!ve mentioned is just slightly under 1 ohm. also, light fuse keep blowing immediately, no horns, brake light and etc. Indicators are running fine starting, charging but still no oil and charge light... (I assume I can live without these two, oil check after every ride, as normal). all connectors are clean, cables tight. Negative pole of battery connected directly to the frame, cables are not damaged. I really dont know where to look now No way. ERROR/EDIT: It is the black wire, not yellow/black. Sorry. Hmmm, there must be infinite resistance between red/black and yellow/black Is it F5 fuse that fails? The one on the blue wire? If it is, then your brake lights do not work as well. "Looking from the distance", there is a short in the powering circuit (red/black wire). The red/black origins on starter relay (#23) and through it it is connected to the F5 fuse (blue wire). I'd start by disconnecting the tach and jamming ohmmeter/diode tester leads in the yellow/black and red/black connectors (ignition off). Start disconnecting things from the red/black wire until you have infinite resistance between red/black(+) and yellow/black(-). Have wiring diagram in front of you. Things to check (reverse order is also OK, maybe even better): 1. Regulator charging light. Disconnect black lead from the regulator. 2. Horns. Shorted horns might have welded together the contacts in the LH switch. 3. Left hand switch assembly. Disconnect connector #18. 4. Brake light switches, front and rear. 5. Disconnect connector #7 (dashboard) and move the ohmmeter lead connected to the red/black wire to the connector itself (the engine part). If the resistance goes up, then the dashboard cable is faulty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.) Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 guzzi2go this is a schematics for rectifier i use now: vape r82 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.) Posted December 23, 2009 Author Share Posted December 23, 2009 well, problem finally sold. I dismounted all the wiring, reaped off the rubber and suprisingly! it was full of water! water must get in under the fuse box. so, lights, dash, horn all is working now. feel like an idiot now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 Nice find Slavomir Hmm,sounds like a design flaw to me.unless we drive into a pond ,our bikes should be able to withstand a downpour indefinitely.I'll have to look at mine, as a few drain holes drilled under the fusebox may be in order Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.) Posted April 25, 2010 Author Share Posted April 25, 2010 aha, story goes on. not charging, melting 30A fuse. Blowing 15 fuse on lights. So i am taking spare wiring loom from Ebay and let's see where is the gremlin now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 aha, story goes on. not charging, melting 30A fuse. Blowing 15 fuse on lights. So i am taking spare wiring loom from Ebay and let's see where is the gremlin now Strip the ignition switch down while you are at it, the voltage shouldn't be able to by-pass that as you describe With the switch off and the bike not running pull each fuse one at a time and check for current using a 12 V lamp in place of the fuse. I suspect you will find some wires melted / shorted together between the seat and the switch. I think I would be taking a close look at the connector under the tank at front. Seems a bit like tracking across from one of the Positive wires to a Negative. You really need to find out what's going on the potential arcing could cause a fire. With everything turned off I would remove all the positive wires and measure mA from positive of battery to each of the positive leads, they should all read zero mA. If you see any current at all then you can try to track it down by pulling fuses etc. If you can't find the problem, leave the positive wires off when you are not riding. Report back Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.) Posted May 3, 2010 Author Share Posted May 3, 2010 SO: I bypassed all the charging circuit by new, thick wire and external fuse holder BUT: no charging though Yellow wires from alternator gives up to 80V depending on revs. connection between regulator and battery is strong - no drops Rectifier disconnected: multimeter set to diod mode, + tester connected to red cable from rec (that one that goes to battery), - trester connected to each phase going to alternator -> nbo response - tester connected to red cable, + tester to each phase going from alternator -> roughly 0,5V - tester to ground and + tester to each phase from alternator -> no response + tester to ground, - tester to each phase from alternator -> no response so now I am really lost. All three rectifiers, 1 OEM, 1 aftermarket and 1 from Joerge from Germany that was reccomended here gives the same result. And still no charge. Am I right, it should be charging even when the relays would be blown? Wires goes directly from rectifier to fuse and straight to battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 As I mentioned in the thread "Wont Start" the schematic from Carl Allison shows the headlight relay also supplies the tacho Generator Light Oil Light Low Fuel light Tachometer (not it's lights though) Horn and a wire goes back to the regulator You need to find out where your lihts are shorting and I suspect the charging will follow Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raz Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Am I right, it should be charging even when the relays would be blown? Wires goes directly from rectifier to fuse and straight to battery. Did you see the other thread? You need the reference from relay 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now