Brake caliper pin removal

[Mikuzzi]

OK, What's the trick to getting out the pin in the rear brake caliper? I'm trying to pull the pads for a close check and possible change.

The manual says:

"Using a push rod and a hammer, beat the conical part

of pin “B”, using small strikes, in order to remove it

from its seat"

I've beat the conical end until it's starting to become un-conical but so far, it's not shifting.

Any clues as to what I'm doing wrong?

 

BTW, I tried a search on this but the search facility is getting the better of me as well, lots of non relevant results to search terms like, brake pad, Brake pin removal etc etc, tried boolean, encasing search terms in quotes and so on but still get over 200 results to wade through. If someone has a few tuips on the site search, I'd appreciate that too

 

Cheers

[raz]

Try a knock or two in the other direction, in case the "spring lock" (whatever the correct name would be) hangs in some way. Then a drop of oil or WD40 in both ends too. Then try again. After five minutes go have a cup of coffee Then go at it again. The coffee part is the most effective.

[gstallons]

Pull the caliper. It's not that tough. Then you can see what is causing the removal problem..........

p.s. ANY rubber components around,in or on this brake caliper will not tolerate any petroleum products. If you do use a penetrant or lubricant wash it off with BrakeKleen .

[savagehenry]

I'm with gstallons, pulling the whole thing takes very little time and allows you to look at it more fully.

[GuzziMoto]

Not to state the obvious, but obviously you are hitting the end of the pin closer to the wheel, trying to knock it to the left (away from the wheel). And you should be using a punch, you don't want to hit the end directly with a hammer or anything else larger in diameter then the end of the pin. You want a punch that is smaller then the end of the pin so you don't mushroom the end. That is a bad thing. I have used a punch the right size and a socket extension to allow me to comfortably hit the punch from the other side. The female end of the extension will hold it on the punch for you.

Yes it is true that solvents can be bad for brake seals, but a little liquid wrench type solvent carefully applied to the end of the pin can be a good thing. If pulling the caliper will help you then do it, but unless you have a bench vise I would leave it in place. That's just me, though. That would be up to you. The important things are to hit it in the right direction and not to mushroom the end or it won't want to go back through and you may have to cut it off and replace.

[Mikuzzi]

Thanks for the responses guys,

I'll resume battle with the thing after work today. I'm using a punch (with extension)the same diameter as the pin and knocking it away from the wheel.

A few more strikes then if no go, I'll remove the caliper as suggested.

[Mikuzzi]

Got it!

As per Raz's suggestion, used a tiny amount of WD40, knocked it from the other side a few times then back to the correct side and it gave after a few choice swearwords. Used brakecleen to clean up.

The pads were completely shot. The front pads though, are fine - I was expecting the reverse wear pattern.

 

Thanks for your help

 

(The coffee was crucial)

[pasotibbs]

Got it!

As per Raz's suggestion, used a tiny amount of WD40, knocked it from the other side a few times then back to the correct side and it gave after a few choice swearwords. Used brakecleen to clean up.

The pads were completely shot. The front pads though, are fine - I was expecting the reverse wear pattern.

 

Thanks for your help

 

(The coffee was crucial)

You'll find that rear pads wear out very quickly even if you use the rear brake normally !!!

[Mikuzzi]

You'll find that rear pads wear out very quickly even if you use the rear brake normally !!!

I've done around 7000 of the nearly 10,000 Km on the bike. I don't think I use the rear brake abnormally and I don't suppose the PO changed the rear pads in the time he had it. So how long does the rear set normally last? silly question I suppose - you can tell me how long that piece of string is as well.

[pasotibbs]

I've done around 7000 of the nearly 10,000 Km on the bike. I don't think I use the rear brake abnormally and I don't suppose the PO changed the rear pads in the time he had it. So how long does the rear set normally last? silly question I suppose - you can tell me how long that piece of string is as well.

That's probably about average,it is like you say "a piece of string" question, if you use the rear all the time it'll be worn out in no time but if you use it mainly for slow speed stability it'll last a lot longer but ultimately the pads are very small, even when new are not very thick and the V11 is very heavy !!

If I remember correctly the caliper is off a small scooter (50cc?)and its way smaller than the caliper/pads fitted to the rear of my lighter Ducati!!!

[docc]

All true, what Pasotibbs has said.

 

If you can keep the pistons clean and the fluid fresh, the tiny rear pads may last a bit longer, but 10,000 is probably the high side. Even if you don't use the rear brake!

 

And the length of the string: too short.

[raz]

I tend to use both brakes but I mostly do long-distance rides (ride, eat, repeat). I replaced my rear rotor and pads a couple of years ago, and after 30,000 kms the pads looks like they will make another 10,000 kms at least. The same mileage in short "rides around town" would probably have needed 3-4 sets of pads of course. I guess the same goes for tires. And boots: I had a habit of dragging my boots to the tarmac when resting my legs during long trips. My current boots did not hold up for that treatment more than a week

[Mikuzzi]

New pads are in and good to go - BUT, now I notice a slight rub/drag once per revolution of the wheel. I suppose the rotor might have a slight warp.

It's not noticable on the road, but walking the bike in the garage I hear it.

Raz, why did you have to change your rotor? Do they go pear shaped often (or at least bend a bit too much)?

[gstallons]

Do you know how to mount a dial indicator to check rotor parallelism? If it is out, you might have to replace it.

 

 

[Mikuzzi]

Do you know how to mount a dial indicator to check rotor parallelism? If it is out, you might have to replace it.

 

 

 

I'm trying to get a loan of a dial indicator for the test. Do you have a spec for the run-out tolerance? The only numbers I've found are the rear rotor thickness wear range (5.1 to 4.9 mm)