Kiwi_Roy Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 I don't think the air leak at exhaust would do it, running on for 90 seconds is quite weird. All I can suggest is monitor the TPS Voltage to see if there's something hanging up there. Does it go through the same routine every time or just now and then? Check the temperature sensors when hot. Clutching at straws here. http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/ECUTestpoints_zps07afda01.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 . Could this be my problem?? Yes.The most common problem of air leaks is the TB boots are cracked,sometimes hard to see,or the headers are loose and or leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted September 27, 2013 Author Share Posted September 27, 2013 I don't think the air leak at exhaust would do it, running on for 90 seconds is quite weird. All I can suggest is monitor the TPS Voltage to see if there's something hanging up there. Does it go through the same routine every time or just now and then? Check the temperature sensors when hot. Clutching at straws here. http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/ECUTestpoints_zps07afda01.jpg Its only when it gets warm like after 10mins. that it hangs. . Could this be my problem?? Yes.The most common problem of air leaks is the TB boots are cracked,sometimes hard to see,or the headers are loose and or leaking. Should I spray some carb cleaner or wd40 at em see if the idle changes? I checked to see if the headers are loose they seemed tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 I have read to use a propane torch with the flame out but I have no experience. Did you check the throttle balance, if that's shifted it would be a clue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted September 28, 2013 Author Share Posted September 28, 2013 I have read to use a propane torch with the flame out but I have no experience. Did you check the throttle balance, if that's shifted it would be a clue. my tps was reading 600 mV but rose smoothly through roll on set it to 525. I will rebalance the TBs.....again. My air bleeds were almost closed. Originally they were 1 turn than balanced. Both times my revs were hanging when warm. Remaining patient (unusual for me) also trying to find a 27mm nut so I can change the freaking oil.... Still a sweet bike, but...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 Somehow your throttle plates have gotten too far open. I would return to the right TB, release the linkage, release the high idle cam (just loosening the cable is not enough), and THEN make sure the idle screw makes no contact. Set the TPS for 150 mV, re-attach the linkage and turn the left hand idle screw until the TPS gives around 525 mV. Air screws should be happy at 1/2 to 1 full turn out, but not idle well or at all closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 Make sure there is nothing hanging down on the left side fouling the throttle cable. 27 mm nuts are pretty easy to come by on early Sports: one on the front axle, one on the rear . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted September 28, 2013 Author Share Posted September 28, 2013 So, last night I gave Docc a call and he had two great points that I'm sure have been covered, but I thought I would share my findings anyway. In order to get the baseline TPS reading to 150 mV everyone always stresses that you have to make sure the high idle is not interfering. Of course I thought that just simply disconnecting the cable closes up the throttle, Not True. I found my reading dropped 20-30 mV after loosening the nut in front of the right throttle spring(not sure what it's called). I'm sure I was warned about this by some one just thought I'd reitirate. Secondly, Docc had a good point about the throttle body being dirty inside and not allowing the plates to close all the way. Again I lost more mV like 30-35, after cleaning the inside (pretty nasty inside). I just thought I would share for any other rookies like my self buying used v11s that probably hadn't run right in a while. And yes even when really warm she is running great idling down and everything, next time my enthusiasm will take a backseat to patience. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 I have read to use a propane torch with the flame out but I have no experience. Did you check the throttle balance, if that's shifted it would be a clue. my tps was reading 600 mV but rose smoothly through roll on set it to 525. I will rebalance the TBs.....again. My air bleeds were almost closed. Originally they were 1 turn than balanced. Both times my revs were hanging when warm. Remaining patient (unusual for me) also trying to find a 27mm nut so I can change the freaking oil.... Still a sweet bike, but...... A 1'' nut is eaier to come by. Go to an automotive parts store and buy a front wheel bearing adjusting nut that is 1" across the flats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 Well, according to my Snap-On sockets , a 27mm socket and a 1 1/16" socket is the same. So go get a wheel bearing adjusting nut that is (27mm)1 1/16'' across the flats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 Both the front and rear axle nuts on my Sport are 27mm across and deep enough to take the cover off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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