LowRyter Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 two more drips on the floor after yesterday's ride Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Is it running down the right side of the engine -gearbox junction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 Dunno Docc. It's right under the the swingarm pivot area just inboard and back from the sidestand. Not sure where it's actually dripping inside the frame. It's dripping after I filled the sump an extra half pint based to the chatter from this thread. It was dripping before until the oil level came down. I've ridden the bike 3 or 4 times since I topped it back up and have a half dozen quarter sized spots now. All of it pretty much like I expected. But I wanted to follow the recommendations here just to be sure what I said before was true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gio Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 I still suspect some aspect of crankcase breather - which would explain why oil "finds the right level" if there is a leak ..? Oil volume would be good to know (may have suggested that already A clean-up and some talcum powder may help to locate the source ..? Gio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 I still suspect some aspect of crankcase breather - which would explain why oil "finds the right level" if there is a leak ..? Oil volume would be good to know (may have suggested that already A clean-up and some talcum powder may help to locate the source ..? Gio it only "leaks" when it's been "filled" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Re-posts here of LowRyter's oil leak with replies. I figure we can sort this out . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 I am not sure there's anything to sort out. When I first noted a small drip, someone here said it was overfilled and needed to puke out the breather. "Guzzis find their own oil level." So the drips went away. Then someone gets anal how I read the dipstick. So, I add a half a pint of oil, and not surprising, it pukes out some drips (so see above). Shall we repeat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 It's entirely possible I'm not hearing well today. Last night's drummer was pretty intense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted August 26, 2015 Author Share Posted August 26, 2015 Update: After a couple of drain and fills, I did a filter change, dropped the pan and filled the sump precisely with 3.5 ltre. I noticed when I dumped the oil, there was a lot of oil. I didn't measure but it was a lot. So I filled it by measurement, rode the bike, let it sit and checked for leaks after a couple of hours. I checked the oil level on the side stand. The dipstick showed the fill at the full mark (but not the painted mark from PO). I can only conclude that level is meant to be checked when the bike is on the side stand- not being held upright level. The bike isn't puking oil either. I can conclude that I was over filling the crankcase by trying to compensate for checking the dipstick while on the side stand. The full mark is indeed full when the bike is on the side stand. I did clean quite of bit of oily grime under the tranny and swingarm. Also changed the tranny and rear end (+moly). Valve adjustment and plugs tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Good stuff! You know, it's really telling that the manual says to check the oil "after the engine has run a few minutes" and the dipstick "should be screwed up completely." Notably, there is no procedure to stand the bike vertically! One of those collective myths like the "stone cold" valve adjustment? According to what LowRyter has seen, apparently so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stick Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 Napkin.pdf I sort of assumed, on 'Guzzis, that since the dip stick is angled, that it is aimed, and hits in the center of the sump. In this case, it might not matter if the bike is vertical, or on the side stand. The reading will will be the same (when full). But, it would benefit to be vertical if the oil level is suspected to be low. Draw it out on your napkin, you'll see. Alrighty then, I scanned the napkin for ya... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 Stick- I think you're right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Yeah, I just ran the Sport a few minutes and checked the oil both ways - it doesn't make much difference; still hard to read that stick either way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 well, I can say those silicon valve cover gaskets didn't do the job for me. First, the right side leaked like a sieve after I adjusted the valves. I reinstalled it after the test ride. On the trip to the Springfield Mile (and back, 1400 miles this weekend) I got a little spray out of the right side. I took the valve cover off when I got home for clean up and three of the ears had rips. So, I just installed another from the pair I was going to put on the EV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 I have been using those silicone valve cover gaskets for many years on two different Guzzi's with no issues. The only "trick" to them is proper torque, they don't use the same torque values as the paper gaskets. Many people seem to like the new paper gaskets, I find the silicone ones work better for me. But everyone is different, to each their own. One thing I do know is that other than tears, imperfections in the mating surface, or improper torque, if you have a persistent oil leak form anywhere that is not (or should not be) pressurized you should make sure your crank case breather system is working correctly. Things like valve cover gaskets should have an easy life. Oil should not be bound and determined to leak from them. They should be simply there to keep oil from leaking out by suggesting that the oil doesn't leak. They should not have to fight the oil about it. If the oil is determined to leak from there; A ) The oil will leak from there, and B ) There is too much pressure forcing the oil to leak. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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