TomekSZ Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Hello, the conectors under the gas tank for the clutch switch was very bad. This Was the main problem. I think it will be better now. I cleaned up... In the future i will change them for simple electric socket.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 The connections for the clutch switch will only effect starting, once it's running they have no effect. I keep saying "Monitor fuse 8 with a small lamp" Fuse 8 is alive - you have power to the bike's brain aka ECU Fuse 8 is dead then the bike won't crank over - look to the ignition switch, kill switch, side-stand circuit TomekSZ, I will send you a message Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zooter Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 ... petcock fuse with a small 12 Volt lamp Jamb one wire in the fuse holder to a lamp placed where you can see it while riding to chassis. This lamp will indicate instantly if you lose Voltage feeding the ECU. If the bike cuts out and the light stays On you have eliminated the most troublesome half of the wiring. If the bike cuts out and the light goes Off all you have to check is Ignition Switch, kill switch, sidestand circuit. Easy Peasy if you or someone else can explain how the petcock power supply is so mission critical I can possibly take the advice into my own roadside knowledge base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Easy.....12v + ground = good power supply. If the fuel control solenoid is good ,it should work. If it doesn't you get to push. I would be shopping for a manual petcock. You will need to utilize it only when you will be removing the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zooter Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I think I get it. Say it conks out in the electrical way. Can I find the petcock fuse and measure voltage to ground? I'm hardly going to install a bulb on the dash just in case! Electrical diagrams make my brain short circuit. I should look into what goes wrong in the ignition switch. Mine feels kind of sloppy for a barely run in bike. This petcock power test intuitively tells me there is less definitive info in the dash lights going out. What a mess. It's hard to visualise problems before they happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Zooter, I think your 2002 bike probably already has a manual petcock. The tank's "dangly bits" from left to right in this picture are: Fuel level sender, manual petcock, fuel pressure regulator. I don't know what year MG switched from electric to manual petcock, but the two 2002s I've seen both had manual - all parts in picture removed from 2002 LeMans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Zooter , if your bike has a fuel line with a worm gear hose clamping on to a valve similar to the one in the center of the above photo then you have a non-electric shut off valve . The electric device to it's left is the low fuel sensor. You will receive a special message when it stops working ! Someone else can chime in as to when the transition from manual to electric petcock . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Electric petcocks 1999-2001. The place for the last fuse in the block remains and , as Kiwi_Roy says, is a good place to check the electrical status of a sputtery bike. That interface effectively separates the ignition/FI/ECU from the series of swtchgear and relays: Go_Winkie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zooter Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 So what's the equivalent test when there is no electric petcock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zooter Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 And thanks for the headsup! I might have been pulling hair trying to find a non existing fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Just to clarify: testing for current fluctuation at this point doesn't have anything to do with the petcock itself, but is a convenient point to tap into the wiring harness with no modifications and see that everything upstream is functioning: Ignition Switch, Run Switch, Side Stand Switch, Neutral Switch and the associated relays 1-3. It isolates the last two relays, ECU, coils, FI, and fuel pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 So what's the equivalent test when there is no electric petcock?' There's a single way connector on the line going to the ECU relay. Another way is to place the lamp across the ECU relay No 4. I believe if you have a bad connection proir to that point the ECU relay starts to drop out and cause the ECU to reset. I talked a friend into cleaning his ignition switch, he claimed the bike ran much better afterwards. I don't think the V11s suffer from Startus Interuptus like most of the other Guzzis so the switch can get really bad before it shows up, I measured mine it read 18 Ohms, I'm sure it was much worse at times. It's a 1 beer job to fix the switch, you don't remove the lock just the contact block, 2 Allen screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zooter Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Zooter , if your bike has a fuel line with a worm gear hose clamping on to a valve similar to the one in the center of the above photo then you have a non-electric shut off valve . The electric device to it's left is the low fuel sensor. You will receive a special message when it stops working ! Someone else can chime in as to when the transition from manual to electric petcock . adjacent lh throttle body, similar is the word, the knurled knob on the bottom doesn't want to turn with fingers grasping. The low warning part had me going for a bit. Now for the weird. I have full set of fuses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 That knurled knob will turn w/assistance (AKA force) using pliers to get it loose. You will find out what is enough or too much force when it breaks or breaks loose . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Just to clarify: testing for current fluctuation at this point doesn't have anything to do with the petcock itself, but is a convenient point to tap into the wiring harness with no modifications and see that everything upstream is functioning: Ignition Switch, Run Switch, Side Stand Switch, Neutral Switch and the associated relays 1-3. It isolates the last two relays, ECU, coils, FI, and fuel pump. I couldn't have said it better. When I pulled my V11 out after the winter it wouldn't, I looked under the seat and my lamp was only glowing at half brightness and flickering, it turned out to be the side-stand switch. It would have been quite hard to track that down using a multimeter but the lamp is so visual. I don't have a lamp on the petcock fuse, mine is on the contact of relay 4, the relay was buzzing away, probably dropping below 3 Volts on the coil I can only imagine what this was doing to the ECU The petcock fuse is a better point to monitor, across the relay coil. And Zooter, I don't thing the condition of the ignition switch has anything to do with miles, more like years, The grease in the switch becomes hard with age holding the contacts apart, with some fresh Vaseline it will feel like a new switch. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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