Motomonster Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 In my mind, dropping the pan every 9K (that's how long the filters last) is a good idea anyway. What's a half hour of maintenance every 9K between friends? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 ARRRRGH!!!! categorically, Surely the Wog, who is guilty of lots of crap with Guzzis, fart arseing about be oiled you've got no-one to blame but yourself I find this new fangled whining silly! Good God man! Grow up and take your sump off rather than whining about your leaky tube!!!!! !!!!! Pete That chap sounds like a bit of a ruffian to me. Anyone know if you can get timing gears to fit the V11? Welcome to V11land, Mr Roper . KB, Cymru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest IanJ Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Ok, I talked to Moto International, and they had a few things to say. First, the tube is part # 0100 5701 and is called a "connecting pipeline". List price is $92 (ouch! but not as bad as replacing the whole pan, which I initially thought I might have to do). Micha strongly suggested sticking with the factory part, rather than trying to find someone who can fab up a "similar" part (of course, it affects his job if his dealership doesn't sell parts). Micha said that they do in fact torque those filters on pretty hard, since they have a history of coming off inside the pan, which is bad. MI has a modified filter wrench with a couple of spikes welded in, to puncture the filter and give a better grip. It is a mixed success, since it's really hard to hammer the thing on, but once they can get it on, it works just dandy. The tube is indeed very easy to replace, consisting of nothing more than a couple of high pressure fittings. A one-wrench job, really. I forgot to ask Micha this, but would it be a sensible thing to put a little bit of anti-seize compound on the threads of the filter? My only concerns would be that it might allow the filter to come off, and I wouldn't want any of the anti-seize to get into the oil supply. I'm guessing the reason no one's mentioned it is that it'd be a bad idea. If I'm seriously going to have to do this kind of crap every time I want to change the filter, the Outsider starts to look pretty sweet. Maybe with my next bonus.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WildJackal Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 I also drop the pan when changing the oil. Very easy especially if you compare it to dropping the pan on a Jackal. You can then get to the oil filter with a Sears strap wrench. One caveat ... when you remove the oil line from the rear of the pan, be careful of breaking the o-rings. I need to pick up a handful of o-rings. They are very fragile. Any recommendations on a source? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gthyni Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Raceco has, or at least had, a deeper v-shaped sump with the filter on the outside: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest IanJ Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 The Raceco sump also looks interesting -- I'm not as excited about having the filter face forward, though. Seems like it'd be liable to be punctured by rocks or stuff thrown up by the front wheel. I like the rear-facing design of "the Outsider" a bit better, although it seems like a sump purpose-built for the purpose would be best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 I may be quite wrong, I don't have a 'Broad Sump' model in the workshop now, but I don't think that the Harpers unit will work with the Daytona/V11 'Broad Sump' Apart from not actually fitting physically I believe the whole pick-up/strainer/delivery system is very different. I could be wrong, as I say I haven't got anything to check my theories against right now but I'm pretty certain I'm right. The Raceco V sump was originally designed to help overcome the problems with oil surge and pump cavitation. It also has the added benefit of offering better cornering clearance, always an issue of Datona RS's, dunno about V11's. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 the v sump is made by moto spezial in germany, and does a much better job in cooling, dynotec thinks it's enough for 135hp 4v guzzi's. so get rid of that oilcooler too. Only minus is the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest callithrix Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 The first time I changed my oil I had similiar problem removing the filter. I went to my local hardware shop and found an interesting oil filter. It has three prongs arraged in a circle that attach to a ratchet. The beauty of it is that the prongs fit in the space between the filter and the oil sump access hole and the tighter you twist the more the prongs compress around the filter. It works like a charm every time I use it. I think it cost me 10 bucks. I don't know if has a specific name, perhaps someone else has seen them or heard of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twhitaker Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 After futzing around with the OEM oil filter on my California for a couple years I bought a socket that I thought would fit from Auto Zone. When I tried it out it spun on the filter. I went back to Auto Zone and bought a Mobil 1 filter M1-103. It fit the socket fine and also fit the bike. When I got the LeMans the first oil change required me to remove the sump for an inspection. I tried the old strap wrench and it spun on the filter. I drove a screwdriver in the filter and banged off the offensive piece of s**t. I now have two bikes running on Mobil 1 filters and dino oil. I know the filter is almost as expensive as the OEM part but from the reports I've read I'm confident it is one of the best on the market. It's an easy enough job I change filters on both bikes every 3000 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 A little off topic, but has anyone bothered to send a sample sump gasket to that fella that makes the silicone gaskets we've got for the valve covers? http://www.realgaskets.com/files/motorcycle.htm ...that was all he was waiting for to make one, a template from the original paper unit. al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 92 bucks??!?!? for a tube?!??!? I'd be talking to a machinist or a plumber. C'mon. I'ts a Tuuube Just my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest IanJ Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 jrt: I know, it pains me deeply, but there is the consideration that I'd be invalidating my warranty if I went and had one fabbed up. MI is doing the neighborly thing and giving me a break on the price, but it's still <i>way</i> overpriced for what it is. Sucker that I am, I'm going with the original MG part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emry Posted January 24, 2004 Share Posted January 24, 2004 Well here is some interesting reading on oil filters. Private Filter Study Personally I would make my own tube. I also like the V-sump design much better, plus it is race proven. As for the filter on the front getting pierced.... I would worry more about my front tire. CBR600's have the filter mounted up front like that. At least older ones do. All those squids that have crashed their fairing to bits haven't seemed to have to many problems. Except fot the rocket Fram filters. But that was Fram's fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted January 24, 2004 Share Posted January 24, 2004 Ian, I don't want to imply you're a sucker- I'm aghast that Guzzi would charge this much. You have a legitimate concern about warranty, and you know the OEM part will work...correctly. And you've never seen some of my soldering jobs OK, ok, no leaks in my house....yet. You may want to look into how long before you get the part, though. Cheers, Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now