Chuck Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Does anyone have a source of SG rated oil that is not also rated SH/SL? All Redline oils *except* their 10-60 syn are rated SG. Motul dino 20-50 is rated SG, their 10-60 syn is rated SG and several others including SN. As far as I know, Amsoil is still rated SG. Mobil 1 used to be, but changed formulation. Possibly their V twin still is? Valvolene 20-50 dino is rated SG. If it says SG on the bottle, I'm good with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Seems the labeling allows SG/SH/SL (or "exceeds SG"), to mean that this is actually SL rated oil (?) [The RedLine 20W-50 I just purchased states "API SN/SM/SL"] I suppose we have H-D to thanks, but almost every chain autoparts store here in the USA has display of motorcycle (and often "racing") oils that typically include several grades of both Mob1 and Lucas, as well as CI-4xx rated diesel oils (which are expected to have higher ZDDP if that's what you're looking for). The OP is still waiting for someone who adds ZDDP . . . . *crickets* ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thumper Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 That's why the STP high in ZDDP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 That's why the STP high in ZDDP. Is there some way to compute the ZDDP content (typically ppm, but has to account for the dilution in your oil)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 I think the Castrol blend at Cycle Gear is the way to go. It's SG and decent cost. Maybe I should go for the cheaper SG mineral Castrol motorcycle oil (** Guzzi Content**)? Beware of the Vtwin and other fully synth Castrol. It ain't SG. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thumper Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Must be winter time, oil thread. I just don't think the V11 engine requires this much thought. Don't get me wrong I LOVE THIS BIKE I have owned it for 14 years. Keep the oil on the full mark, put in a good oil change it when required, I go 1 year or 3000 miles. Not sure what the PPM of ZDDP in the crank case is. Mobil 1 V twin with a 1/2 bottle STP makes me happy. Hell I run pods on the bike cause It looks good and sounds great, so do the d&d cans. Keeping the oil clean and topped off in my view is the best thing you can do for this bike. This is the best motorcycle forum on the net so much information and so many people willing to help! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 You've gotta love oil threads. Just the same, some of the manufactures must have recently changed their formulations.. I'll still look for SG. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JesterGrin_1 Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 I would avoid full synthetics in any air cooled engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 I would avoid full synthetics in any air cooled engine. Why? They are *much* better when hot. No contest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JesterGrin_1 Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 I would avoid full synthetics in any air cooled engine. Why? They are *much* better when hot. No contest. Ok not counting Air Craft lol.But for an Air Cooled Engine on the ground I would avoid full synthetics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 I would avoid full synthetics in any air cooled engine. Why? They are *much* better when hot. No contest. Ok not counting Air Craft lol.But for an Air Cooled Engine on the ground I would avoid full synthetics. Everybody is intitled to be completely wrong I guess, and I respect your right to be so. Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 You've gotta love oil threads. Just the same, some of the manufactures must have recently changed their formulations.. I'll still look for SG. Mobil 1 V Twin 20-50 is rated "SJ" https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide-2016.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 You've gotta love oil threads. Just the same, some of the manufactures must have recently changed their formulations.. I'll still look for SG. Mobil 1 V Twin 20-50 is rated "SJ" https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide-2016.pdf Looks like good phosphorus/zinc levels (1600/1750), yet no confirmation of base oil. (I know the thread is more about ZDDP, and not base oil . . . ) Probably one the best, and most widely available, 20W-50 specialty oils. mayormenino, you can get this oil in your home state? If so, no worries about adding ZDDP! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 good point, I think SG & SJ min levels are 1400 ppm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 good point, I think SG & SJ min levels are 1400 ppm. Aren't those MAX levels? The oil specs restrict the max amount of things like ZDDP you can have in an oil, not the minimum. That is why an oil can be SG/SH/SL. If it meets the max ZDDP level of SL it will also, by default, be under the max ZDDP level of SH or SG. What you want, if you want an SG oil, is oil that meets SG but NOT any newer specs like SH, SL, or SM. In this case the newer spec is not your friend. The specs restricts the max amount, not sets a minimum amount. I do go for an SG oil, but I also think some worry too much about it. The most important time for this was during break in. After that most any oil will do as long as it is changed before it is worn out. A synthetic oil will last longer, and it may deliver slightly better protection. But failures due to oil are rare in such a stone axe motor as the Guzzi lump. I prefer synthetic SG oil, but mostly it is a matter of using oil vs not using oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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