On the Road Engine Oil?

[JesterGrin_1]

 I understand the benefits of the best oils such as RedLine but other than carrying an extra quart of oil for top off at fuel stops I have been wondering if there was an easy to find Oil that is sold at most auto parts stores and or gas stations that would suit the V11 just as well?

 

 I ask as I have seen more than a few riders that go on extended rides but do not mention there oil of choice when doing so.

[docc]

20w-50 anything.

 

Also, very common in the US, diesel rated Rotella T 15w-40.

[Chuck]

Well, first.. it's a Guzzi. It won't burn oil. If you're on a trip, run what's in it until you return if you are using a quality synthetic. Mobil 1 Vtwin is available anywhere if you really need it.

[JesterGrin_1]

Well, first.. it's a Guzzi. It won't burn oil. If you're on a trip, run what's in it until you return if you are using a quality synthetic. Mobil 1 Vtwin is available anywhere if you really need it.

 Very good to hear. Thank You.

[LowRyter]

The issue isn't finding oil. .... It's finding away to get the oil into the engine.

[JesterGrin_1]

 Why not use the cap with the small funnel from a gear oil bottle and simply screw that onto the oil bottle? Of course it depends on the Oil bottle lol.

[Scud]

Jester - your talking about a pointy-lid, right? Along those lines, you can also use a top from a water bottle - the kind that seals when you push it back down. Carry that under your seat. Then you can put that on any oil bottle, tip it upside down, open the valve, and squirt it into the crankcase.

 

As for oil on the road, try to get as close to what you are running as possible, but... If the bike is low any oil will do till the next change. You can even mix organic and synthetic. You can buy synthetic blended oils - so I don't know why people worry about mixing them.

[JesterGrin_1]

Jester - your talking about a pointy-lid, right? Along those lines, you can also use a top from a water bottle - the kind that seals when you push it back down. Carry that under your seat. Then you can put that on any oil bottle, tip it upside down, open the valve, and squirt it into the crankcase.

 

As for oil on the road, try to get as close to what you are running as possible, but... If the bike is low any oil will do till the next change. You can even mix organic and synthetic. You can buy synthetic blended oils - so I don't know why people worry about mixing them.

Scud good idea.

 

I forget which thread I commented on but for myself and with some High HP Air Cooled engine work in my past I would highly recommend against Full Synthetic in a Moto Guzzi. Full Synthetic oils do not carry nor dissipate heat very well. If one would check head temperatures they will notice that the temperature of the  head will be significantly higher with synthetic oil than a dino oil due to the heat transfer qualities of the oils. But if you check the oil temperature it will be lower again due to the fact that it does not acquire the heat nor dissipate the heat very well at all. 

 

 But hey run what you like. But here in South TEXAS it does get a little warm in the summer months so Heat can be a huge concern.

[JesterGrin_1]

 I will add to this that in our systems say a replacement of 1/2 quart of full synthetic will help not only flow but HP and wear as well while retaining most of the good qualities of heat displacement and save money.

 

 On one test we did was of course a Super charged race small block chevy. With just replacing 1 quart with full synthetic it would gain us about 7 to 8 HP. While full synthetic would gain us just a hair over 8 HP. And so because of fuel contamination in the fuel one can only run the oil a few runs before it should be changed. So by doing this saves a good deal of coin.

 

 As for Air Cooled these tests were done by Gene Berg of VW Type 1 fame. I also tried these tests years ago to confirm this and by golly ole Gene was correct.