TPS for Dummies

[Jazzamoto]

Dave, just checked my bike. I set the CO trim to zero last week. Did a long ride to West Marin and checked it again. Still at zero. On my first 92 mile leg I got 35.5 MPG which is good considering all the 2nd and 3rd gear sections. Prior to resetting the CO I'd be lucky to get 29 - 30 MPG on the freeway. Haven't pulled the plugs yet. They were pretty black and sooty prior to the CO trim change.

 

Hope you're recovering !

 

John

[vvv]

Thanks for the photos (and to @docc for the original tutorial).  
 
Couple of questions:
 
1. "Set the high idle cam so it just nudges the throttle when engaged."

 

This is done by moving the part which houses the high idle screw, correct? I can move it left (image 1) and right (image 2). In image 2, it touches the cam. 

 

 

2. "Leave the right side idle stop backed out."

 

Is the screw removed completely? If not, how much of it should still be inside?

 

Thanks!  

[czakky]

I believe that's right. Hard to tell from the pics. Just adjust it back and forth a few times with the cable. You'll figure out how it works.

[docc]

Adjusting the high-idle cam starts with the cable tension and is finished with the "High Idle Screw" shown in yellow in the photo below. I set the cam so it has a little clearance to the throttle and just nudges it when the high idle lever is engaged.

 

Right side idle screw (in red) is hard to see in the photo below, but is backed out enough so that it does not protrude from the other side. I've seen them loose enough to fall out.

[swooshdave]

Thanks for the photos (and to @docc for the original tutorial).  

 

Couple of questions:

 

1. "Set the high idle cam so it just nudges the throttle when engaged."

 

This is done by moving the part which houses the high idle screw, correct? I can move it left (image 1) and right (image 2). In image 2, it touches the cam.

 I loosened the high idle screw and then used a shim (piece of thin cardboard) to set the distance. You don't want the part to touch the cam. Just clear it. Too close and when you open the "choke" on the handlebar it will rev too high. Too far away and it won't rev enough.

 

 

2. "Leave the right side idle stop backed out."

 

Is the screw removed completely? If not, how much of it should still be inside?

 

Thanks!

 

So I've also read that only using the left side for your idle can lead to inconsistent idle speeds as you are relying on the linkage to manage the idle on the right side. Ideally you would set the idle screws exactly the same. I'm going to try this method.

[vvv]

Thanks, think I got it. Didn't touch the cable tension on the cam, just adjusted the part with the high idle screw to be bumped when the choke is engaged.