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Shift Problems


LowRyter

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The travel of the selector arm in both directions is adjusted with the eccentric adjuster, I’ve seen cases where the arm travel hits the inside of the casing which causes false neutrals, 

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I thinking this is beyond what I might do on the garage floor.  I don't want to ride it, so to prevent further damage.  I might be able to get to the shop in a month or so once the wife is mobile.  Thanks for your help.  I'll let you all know how it shakes out.

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Do let us know mate...

Mine was sorted years ago as the bike was serviced by Brad Black and hasn't missed a beat since.

Probably will now that I've mentioned it eh!

Cheers

 

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On 2/21/2024 at 5:37 PM, docc said:

Screen Shot 2014-06-11 at 10.58.25 AM.png

OK, I've gotten this, with the starter hanging.  What I noticed is that the pivot nut (about 2 o'clock from the red circle) is loose as hech with a lot of play.  It appears the nut screws into a pin that attached the adjustable screw arm to the pivot arm below.  The problem I'm having, the pin just turns with the nut and there's nothing to garb on the back of the pin.  The only way to get behind it is move the lever in the upshift position but there is still nothing to grab the back since it seems to be a smooth pinhead.

Perhaps it's supposed to have this much slack?   and I should mess with something else?

OK, looking at Harper's diagram, I see it's a screw and appears to be an allen head.  So perhaps I can get an all wrench to hold it while I tighten the nut?  

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1 hour ago, LowRyter said:

OK, I've gotten this, with the starter hanging.  What I noticed is that the pivot nut (about 2 o'clock from the red circle) is loose as hech with a lot of play.  It appears the nut screws into a pin that attached the adjustable screw arm to the pivot arm below.  The problem I'm having, the pin just turns with the nut and there's nothing to garb on the back of the pin.  The only way to get behind it is move the lever in the upshift position but there is still nothing to grab the back since it seems to be a smooth pinhead.

Perhaps it's supposed to have this much slack?   and I should mess with something else?

OK, looking at Harper's diagram, I see it's a screw and appears to be an allen head.  So perhaps I can get an all wrench to hold it while I tighten the nut?  

It is an eccentric adjuster pin with a flat blade slot under a dome head lock nut. The way to adjust it correctly is to remove the cover and do it on the bench. Any other way risks the shifting issues you already have. You may need to remove the cover and stop the pin from rotating as you turn the locknut. Get your big boy pants on and dive in and remove the cover.

Phil

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It's too late,  I've burned up the bike.  I'm now a former V11 rider.

I took off the starter.  Unfortunately, I only unhooked the battery ground.  The hot starter wire grounded on the shock adjuster when I was working on it.  I smelled fire and got it free but too late.  The electrics are dead.  Totally.  Fuses are ok but there's melted insulation under the side cover.  

So far as the shifter, I was able to get the adjuster off and backed it with an allen head and tighten it.  Have no idea about that. 

Believe me, I'm sick about it.  

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

Finally got an update on the bike.  It looks like the electrical issue is fixed.  Just a few burned connectors and the affected wires.  Perhaps the battery has knocked out cell.

Gearbox is TBD.

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  • 1 month later...

Now they finally broke into the Transmission.  Don't know the extent of damage and the fix.  A broken pin (perhaps a limiter pin?) and swarf in the bottom of the case.  I suppose the soap opera will continue on Monday.

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Posted (edited)

Looks bad.  Bearing cage broke up.  That's the crap in the bottom of the case.  I suppose a rebuild, it would make sense to replace all the cages? 

 

I've got photos but it's just broken pieces and the broken pin.  I don't know about getting the parts or anything else.  As busted as it is, surprising that it rode as good as it did. 

Edited by LowRyter
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50 minutes ago, LowRyter said:

...  I suppose a rebuild it would make sense to replace all the cages? ...

I would. When you're in there, before you have to pull it all apart again in a couple of years. :huh2:

As far as the parts goes, Stein Dinse seems to have them in stock. Bonus, when you click on the part number in the picture, it springs to the part in the list, and the bearing dimensions are listed there.

https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=en&h=MG&m=220&t=5380#a174838

 

Edit, in case the translation is incomplete: "Nadellager" means "roller bearing" or "needle bearing". :)

Edited by audiomick
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