docc Posted September 18 Posted September 18 3 hours ago, Pressureangle said: I'm certain I'm going to raise someone's blood pressure with this one. Don't let the metal blanking plate/ disc jump out of your angle drives. Perhaps made more likely by adding viscous lubricant to the housing . . . 1
Pressureangle Posted October 17 Author Posted October 17 (edited) Back to work...Throttle body day Thanks to Lucky Phil's thread [ link ] this is easy enough for anyone to do at home. I didn't think to take a lot of pictures before starting, but the bottom of the throttle shafts were DEEP with what looked like the bottom of a '74 Ford 460 oil pan. My throttle blade screws weren't peened or center punched, they had simply been hit once with a chisel, looked like; turning them out was easy enough probably could have without damaging anything. I used a set of duckbill pliers to squeeze the end together a bit while not flattening the threads. Came out surprisingly easy though probably won't go in as well. Certainly going to touch them with loctite going back, may try new screws if the hardware has the correct pitch in brass. Went to the very back of the 'special tools' drawer and drug out a 5/16" valve guide driver (8mm) a perfect fit for the bushings. 8mmx10mmx8mm bushings (I have plenty left over if you're in a hurry, but you get 4 for the price of eBay's bag of 10 due to ... The Chinese Conspiracy) Easy to feel when centered, a couple medium whacks and when the seal shoulder stopped, stuck the old bushing on to drive the new ones home to the shoulder. Easy peasy. The old seals were so dead they actually fell out as I pulled the shaft. Finish tomorrow, everything soaking in Boraxo/dishsoap to soften the road armor covering the linkage arms and TB bodies. Upside-damn-down again, WTF Turn your head lol Edited October 20 by Pressureangle 2
Tomchri Posted October 17 Posted October 17 My bolts on the main shaft was hit by something big. Had to grind to get the bolts out. Grinding the shaft flat does a thing with the airflow, a smart German guy mentioned. 1 Very stubborn bushing to remove, otherwise wise not hard. It’s a Guzzi l know, but l like them best possible tuned. Did you use Yamaha seals or. Cheers Tom. 2
Pressureangle Posted October 18 Author Posted October 18 (edited) On 10/17/2025 at 7:47 PM, Tomchri said: My bolts on the main shaft was hit by something big. Had to grind to get the bolts out. Grinding the shaft flat does a thing with the airflow, a smart German guy mentioned. 1 Very stubborn bushing to remove, otherwise wise not hard. It’s a Guzzi l know, but l like them best possible tuned. Did you use Yamaha seals or. Cheers Tom. I was very surprised to find the screws so lightly secured. I'll try to remember to photo the other TB. The bushings came out fairly easily, a 9mm tap halfway in and a punch from the other side. The new ones seemed a bit tighter in the bores, but not enough for concern. Only the one bushing on the bottom RH side showed any perceptible wear, but I have them and I'm there. The seals were the big shock, they were loose on the shaft and in the bores. I used the *very* expensive ones listed in Lucky Phil's thread, CA Cycleworks TB shaft seals they're about $12 each. I searched for a couple hours and found zero else available, I could have put together 2-3 purchases of old Yamaha stock but these are viton and should last the life. Edited October 20 by Pressureangle 2
Pressureangle Posted October 18 Author Posted October 18 Didn't get to work on it, but compared the first TB screws to the second- obviously, the first set was a production error where someone didn't go deep enough with the peen and went back for a second bite, but still not very strongly. The second TB screws are definitely going to have to be ground off as they're very well smashed over. 2
Pressureangle Posted October 20 Author Posted October 20 Throttle bodies finished, new linkage rod made, drawing of thumbwheel adjuster sent to shop for future production, Slave cylinder disassembled/cleaned/flushed/mounted. Now to fit the engine/trans into the frame and begin the countless trips to the hardware store for the milieu of fasteners unaccounted for or too ugly to use. I've decided to leave the heads in place for now, I'll run it for a tank of gas before doing a leakdown test and spark plug check. I noticed the transmission serial number does not match the engine, though quite obviously this is the transmission the original owner took out of the bike. Can anyone confirm these numbers don't necessarily match? Don't care just curious. 2
docc Posted October 20 Posted October 20 4 hours ago, Pressureangle said: I noticed the transmission serial number does not match the engine, though quite obviously this is the transmission the original owner took out of the bike. Can anyone confirm these numbers don't necessarily match? Don't care just curious. Correct. 2
Pressureangle Posted October 21 Author Posted October 21 28 minutes ago, docc said: That chassis and driveline look amazing, @Pressureangle! 'photogenic'. Good lighting lol 2
Pressureangle Posted October 21 Author Posted October 21 Oh BTW those porkchops are actually from an 1100 Sport-i. Enquiring minds wanted to know. clue 2
docc Posted October 21 Posted October 21 30 minutes ago, Pressureangle said: Oh BTW those porkchops are actually from an 1100 Sport-i. Enquiring minds wanted to know. clue Fascinating! So, the dimensionality between the 1100 Sport-i with 5 speed gearbox and the V11 Sport with 6speeder, as well as the different width of the lateral spineframe crossmember, was adapted through the lower rear subframe . . . That is resourceful ! 1
Pressureangle Posted October 21 Author Posted October 21 (edited) 9 hours ago, docc said: Fascinating! So, the dimensionality between the 1100 Sport-i with 5 speed gearbox and the V11 Sport with 6speeder, as well as the different width of the lateral spineframe crossmember, was adapted through the lower rear subframe . . . That is resourceful ! 'different width of the lateral spineframe crossmember'. Do you mean the T-section the porkchops bolt on to? I'd have to see someone's direct measurements to believe it's different. So far it seems like the only requirements to put a 6-speed where a 5-speed sits is the lower subframe (probably) swingarm, driveshaft and bevel drive. I haven't yet seen whatever was declared to be a difficult change. The transmission output offset is accommodated by the swingarm hole, and even that appears to have been adjusted within the same basic swingarm as the 5-speed. Wish I had the 'Sport here at the same time. That will come. Edited October 21 by Pressureangle 2
docc Posted October 21 Posted October 21 I thought the round "T" cross member was wider on the 5speed Sports. No idea where that "thinking" came from, though . . . 2
Pressureangle Posted October 24 Author Posted October 24 Was gonna be wiring harness day, but I got dirty early on something else and the bench is too tall and hard to access both sides. So I did this instead. 3
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now