I am lost, need some forum expert help :)

[audiomick]

7 hours ago, docc said:

... do not overlook the faulty connections of the clutch switch at the nefarious "bullet connectors" at the left side of the frame spine beneath the tank.

That has been mentioned a couple of times, and now one more time. I had a look at those on mine, and can only confirm the advice to check them regularly. The "bullet" type connector is one that is inclined to get loose with time, and those ones on the V11 are in a dumb place into the bargain. Whatever else you do, look at them first.

 

7 hours ago, gstallons said:

... but get your bike to where it starts every time FIRST !

I agree with that, in the sense of getting the existing systems in good order, or as good as possible, before you start doing mods that might not address the actual issue.

The reservation is, it is possible that the bike might not start every time at the first button push even if everything is in good order. Mine doesn't. However, the "not starting" is not a complete failure to do anything when the button is pushed. That would be a symptom that points to, for instance, the aforementioned bullet connectors (along with the fact that the steering position makes a difference, as already mentioned in other posts).

What mine does is the classic "startus interruptus": Sometimes it starts fine, sometimes it just clicks. A few more jabs on the button, and clicks, and then it starts. The position of the steering makes no difference. The problem is that not enough volts get through to the solenoid on the starter. I've measured that on mine, and it is the case.

I've done a clean-up on the electrics on the bits that are easy to get to, and the problem got better, but it is still there. The solution is either go through electrics from start to finish and bring every single connector back to as new condition, or install the additional relay as described further up.

The plan is to add the additional relay, but I have a couple of other issues that are more urgent. Putting the forks back in when I get them back from the workshop, for instance, and finding out why it runs so badly on a constant throttle.

[docc]

If it "clicks", it is not the clutch bullet connectors. If they are at fault, there will be > nothing <.

[Ali Fra]

Hey Guys, 

 

Mine does not click at all on particular position. 

 

For example, rotated on the left, it does not click,  no life. Dash board lights go off a little. 

When I rotate it to the right, it just starts. 

So I assume, its the bullet connectors

[gstallons]

Well , you need to include ALL  symptoms too. What was this mention about dash lights ? 

[p6x]

On 5/10/2025 at 4:00 AM, Ali Fra said:

I have found this relay in Norway, I think it can replace the Song Chuan, what do you think? 

- BOSCH 0 986 AH0 304

Also, Do you have any simple diagram that explains the re-routing? 

I did not specify it, but you obviously need to add a fuse between the Relay and the Solenoid;

As for the relays, on this forum, there is a huge discussion about which and what. I can't look it up now, as I have a problem on my Quota that needs urgent looking....

[docc]

3 hours ago, p6x said:

I did not specify it, but you obviously need to add a fuse between the Relay and the Solenoid;

As for the relays, on this forum, there is a huge discussion about which and what. I can't look it up now, as I have a problem on my Quota that needs urgent looking....

This takes you to the "answer" post with links to the latest "Best (micro) Relay."

The Pickers Components narrowly better than the CIT:

 

[p6x]

12 hours ago, Ali Fra said:

Hey Guys, 

 

Mine does not click at all on particular position. 

 

For example, rotated on the left, it does not click,  no life. Dash board lights go off a little. 

When I rotate it to the right, it just starts. 

So I assume, its the bullet connectors

@Ali Fra

Remote troubleshooting is like fumbling in the dark...

As @gstallons says, you need to completely give the forum all the details of the issue you are experiencing.

The very best, is to make a video, showing exactly what happens. Get someone to shoot the video while you go through the motions of attempting to start it, and what you do to get it started.

Your biggest clue, as shown in the video I posted in my initial reply to you, is the fact that my warning lights, my head beam, loses intensity when I depress the start button. I am closing the circuit, which means I have conductivity in my wires. However, I do not get enough amps to get the solenoid to fully work.

If you have an intermittent connection somewhere, meaning that pushing the start button does not result in any change of the intensity, then you have a wiring problem. Check your circuit for integrity.

Start your engine, leave the side stand deployed, and put it in gear. That should instantaneously kill the engine.