Is my Electrosport Stator Defective?

[audiomick]

2 minutes ago, Pressureangle said:

The lamp itself can illuminate with far less than 12 volts, so the lit lite doesn't tell us the circuit voltage is good. ...

Yes. I have in mind this post from @Sam P

which seems to contradict an earlier post from Sam

The first one indicates that the system is not charging at all. The second that the regulator is not regulating.

In the case that the first one indicates, i.e. that the charging system is not charging, I think we can rule out that the reference voltage is too low. If it were, the system should overcharge constantly (which would exlude the warning lamp coming on, as far as I understand it)

In the case that the second one indicates, i.e. that the system is overchargin, for my understanding, the charge warning light shouldn't be coming on, unless the Electrosport regulator operates differently from the original shown in @Kiwi_Roy's schematic.

So I'm assuming that the charging system just isn't charging. 

[audiomick]

9 minutes ago, gstallons said:

It is from Ford service information= KOEO or KOER. Key on Engine Off or Key On Engine Running

I like that. Maybe we could adopt it here (despite my aversion to Ford on principle. I always preferred Holden. Look it up. )

[audiomick]

13 minutes ago, Sam P said:

Well I do 99% of my www activity from an iPad - no right click available, lol!

I haven't tried this out, but have a look at this:

https://www.idownloadblog.com/2020/06/08/ipad-right-click-tutorial/

If I think of it, I'll try it out at work tomorrow. My head of department loves his fruit, I hate the bloody things. 

[gstallons]

Keep it simple. The charge light just happens to have two "positives" . One on each side. When there is a difference of potential , the "charge" light comes on. e.g. KOEO. You start the bike and the charging system is working so both sides have the same V and the light is off. You increase the RPM to 4k? and the charge light is on because the alternator is producing an insane V . 24v as compared to 12v on the battery. The light is going to come on because of the difference of potential. It is not undercharging but overcharging . 

 One sentence in all of Kiwi_Roy's info stated "if there is not a good circuit involving the charge light , you will have an overcharge situation.  

That is why I want you to research the charge light and the circuit. It bothers me the light will not come on KOEO or KOER but will come on after the high RPMs. This is an overcharge situation instead of an udercharge situation. 

[audiomick]

8 minutes ago, audiomick said:

 My head of department loves his fruit, I hate the bloody things. 

Don't get me wrong, I don't like Windoze either. If I had my druthers, I would exclusively use Linux.

Apart from that, I can touch-type fairly well, so not having a proper keyboard is a massive handicap.

But I'm drifting away from the topic, so enough of that. 

[PJPR01]

On 9/15/2025 at 8:03 AM, Sam P said:

1) 13v

2)12.8v

3)12.3v

4)12.3v

Light is off at 1,2,and 3

Light only comes on when revved to 3-4K RPM

 

Having read thru the the last couple of pages that were written in the last few hours.

12.3 while running is too low, do you have a comparison to what it was running at before changing the regulator?

Now, the light coming on at revs, suggests possibly that the lamp is vibrating in its holder and making some light contact.  Have you actually taken the dash apart (carefully) to look at the lights as well and see if they are seated properly?

I just tested my Scura...13.3 at idle, 14.5 at revs...a few years ago, if my memory serves me correctly, Chuck had advised me to upgrade the wire on the voltage regulator and to use a star washer there where it grounds as well for better contact.  Have you checked the grounding of the regulator?

Edited Wednesday at 01:46 AM by PJPR01

[gstallons]

15 minutes ago, audiomick said:

Don't get me wrong, I don't like Windoze either. If I had my druthers, I would exclusively use Linux.

Apart from that, I can touch-type fairly well, so not having a proper keyboard is a massive handicap.

But I'm drifting away from the topic, so enough of that. 

Do what ?

[audiomick]

34 minutes ago, gstallons said:

... The charge light just happens to have two "positives" . One on each side. When there is a difference of potential , the "charge" light comes on...

We don't have a schematic for the installed Electrosport regulator, so that might be the case. Referring to the @Kiwi_Roy schematic for the original regulator, I understand it that the warning light can only go on when the charging voltage is below the reference voltage. I'll attach another one of Roy's schematics, the same as earlier with notes.

Referring to that, the charge warning lamp is switched on by a Mosfet that is switched on by the reference voltage, and switched off when the diodes D6 and D7 leak enough of the reference voltage into the negative phase of the alternator.

Assuming that the Electrosport regulator operates in a similar fashion, I can't see how an overcharging situation would cause the charge warning lamp to go on. Maybe the functional principle is different, though, and overcharging could cause the lamp to go on. But then, why doesn't it go on right from "engine start", and why doesn't it light up with key on, engine off? 

Edited Wednesday at 01:10 AM by audiomick

[gstallons]

Reread my post about difference of potential. I am trying to get the original poster to check the integrity of the charge lamp circuit. I want to know why the light is not on w/KOEO , KOER but comes on when the alternator is producing an overcharge situation. According to Kiwi_Roy if the integrity of this circuit is not good or if the regulator is not grounded perfectly , the charging system will overcharge.

[docc]

On 9/14/2025 at 7:09 PM, docc said:

4) at "some rpm" - in this case: what happens to charging voltage as the rpm rises from, say, 2500 to 4000

 

On 9/15/2025 at 8:03 AM, Sam P said:

4)12.3v

 

This outcome does not support the "overcharging" scenario:

> Not charging <

[audiomick]

49 minutes ago, gstallons said:

 I want to know why the light is not on w/KOEO , KOER but comes on when (the alternator is producing an overcharge situation.) the revs get over 4,000

Yes, me too, but

26 minutes ago, docc said:

 

This outcome does not support the "overcharging" scenario:

> Not charging <

Which is why I am not convinced that the system is overcharging.

Perhaps it would help if @Sam P would repeat the measurments and confirm or negate the "26V" value for when the charge warning light is on. The later post from Sam, quoted by @docc, which cites only values of 12,xV,  indicates that overcharging is not the case, but confirmation might help.

Edited Wednesday at 02:04 AM by audiomick

[gstallons]

On 9/13/2025 at 7:34 AM, Sam P said:

My new reg is the Electrosport ESR515, not hard wired to the battery. The DC volts at the battery are:

>13.2-13.5 ignition off

>13.0-3 ignition on

>26v revved to 3-5K (this seems too high, no?)

Uh , SamP states "26v @ 3-5k RPM" .  I think this would be considered overcharge? Unless this is a 26v system. This is why I want SamP to deal with the two wire plug. Disconnect the plug, disconnect the battery positive and apply 12v to the two wires B+ to one wire and B- to the other wire of the two wire plug and see if the light comes on. 

Edited Wednesday at 09:09 AM by gstallons
more info

[gstallons]

10 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

I remember that BMW's use the charging indicator light as part of the charging regulation system. If the charge light bulb burns out then you get nothing out of the alternator. Left me stranded on the side of the road in the Isle of Mann in 1984. Not sure if it's applicable to the V11 system though.

Phil

That is possible on this system. You would have to remove the bulb to be sure about this. VW Beetles would do the same way if the bulb were not good.

Edited Wednesday at 09:03 AM by gstallons

[audiomick]

1 hour ago, gstallons said:

Uh , SamP states "26v @ 3-5k RPM" .  ....

Yes, he did in this post

but posted different values in this later post

I have to admit, I've just been orientating myself on the second one, which looks like undercharging, rather than the first, which would obviously be overcharging.

Perhaps @Sam P could check that again, and confirm which is really the case.

If those values are really fluctuating from measurement to measurement, that would also be interesting.

Edited Wednesday at 10:54 AM by audiomick

[Sam P]

1 hour ago, audiomick said:

Yes, he did in this post

but posted different values in this later post

I have to admit, I've just been orientating myself on the second one, which looks like undercharging, rather than the first, which would obviously be overcharging.

Perhaps @Sam P could check that again, and confirm which is really the case.

If those values are really fluctuating from measurement to measurement, that would also be interesting.

The 26v reading at the battery earlier in this thread was not repeatable on a number of subsequent readings, which were all at 12.3v at idle and revved to 3K. In hindsight I should have made this more clear. Sorry for the confusion.