Is my Electrosport Stator Defective?

[Speedfrog]

16 hours ago, Sam P said:

Well I do 99% of my www activity from an iPad - no right click available, lol!

Tap and Hold on an iPad = right click on PC, opens up a menu allowing similar functions. 

[gstallons]

Answer these questions.

 Do you have the bike's owner's manual? It contains a foldout that is for the bikes wiring diagram. An optional wiring diagram shows the charge light diagram going straight from the regulator to the light and straight to the battery. Some V regulators have a 5 wire regulator and some have a 6 wire regulator.

 Did this bike have this problem when you bought it ?

 Were new parts on the bike when you bought it ?

 Did you install these parts trying to fix this condition?

 With the KOEO ( key on engine off) is the charge light on?

 When you start the bike what is the condition of the light ? 

What is the V reading at idle ? What is the reading at 1500 rpm ? What is the reading at 3,000 rpm ? What is the reading at 4,000 rpm ?

 At what rpm does the light (if ever) come on ? 

I am working my a$$ off trying to decide how to figure out what advice to give you. There are two (or more) styles of wiring diagrams for these bikes. 

[gstallons]

22 hours ago, audiomick said:

We don't have a schematic for the installed Electrosport regulator, so that might be the case. Referring to the @Kiwi_Roy schematic for the original regulator, I understand it that the warning light can only go on when the charging voltage is below the reference voltage. I'll attach another one of Roy's schematics, the same as earlier with notes.

Referring to that, the charge warning lamp is switched on by a Mosfet that is switched on by the reference voltage, and switched off when the diodes D6 and D7 leak enough of the reference voltage into the negative phase of the alternator.

Assuming that the Electrosport regulator operates in a similar fashion, I can't see how an overcharging situation would cause the charge warning lamp to go on. Maybe the functional principle is different, though, and overcharging could cause the lamp to go on. But then, why doesn't it go on right from "engine start", and why doesn't it light up with key on, engine off? 

My apologies , the MOSFET Q3 turns the charge light on. When the voltage is satisfied , Q3 turns off and light goes off.

 forginve my ramblings about difference of potential . This is from a long time ago.

[Pressureangle]

15 hours ago, gstallons said:

My apologies , the MOSFET Q3 turns the charge light on. When the voltage is satisfied , Q3 turns off and light goes off.

 forginve my ramblings about difference of potential . This is from a long time ago.

Yeah, that's where I started too, until Kiwi Roy's  schematic showed up. I confused myself and the thread, but hey we're all learning together. 
I guess I *can* change my charge lamp to LED. 

[audiomick]

22 hours ago, gstallons said:

My apologies , the MOSFET Q3 turns the charge light on. When the voltage is satisfied , Q3 turns off and light goes off.

 

Yes, at least in the one in Roy's schematic.

We don't know for sure how the one from Electrosport that @Sam P has installed works. That's why I suggesed he check resistance between the warning lamp connection on the regulator and ground at key on, engine off, and then with the engine running at various speeds. Seeing what happens there should show what the lamp should be doing, and thereby give an indication of whether the lamp itself has a problem.

Edited yesterday at 10:53 PM by audiomick

[docc]

It occurs to me that addressing the charging problem would be primary.

Once it is charging, the light behavior may take care of itself.

[Sam P]

18 hours ago, gstallons said:

Answer these questions.

 Do you have the bike's owner's manual? YES It contains a foldout that is for the bikes wiring diagram. An optional wiring diagram shows the charge light diagram going straight from the regulator to the light and straight to the battery. Some V regulators have a 5 wire regulator and some have a 6 wire regulator.

 Did this bike have this problem when you bought it ? NO

 Were new parts on the bike when you bought it ? NO

 Did you install these parts trying to fix this condition? YES

 With the KOEO ( key on engine off) is the charge light on? NO

 When you start the bike what is the condition of the light ? OFF

What is the V reading at idle ? What is the reading at 1500 rpm ? What is the reading at 3,000 rpm ? What is the reading at 4,000 rpm ? 12.3v at all points

 At what rpm does the light (if ever) come on ? 3-4K

I am working my a$$ off trying to decide how to figure out what advice to give you. There are two (or more) styles of wiring diagrams for these bikes. 

Answers in above quote in BOLD

[Pressureangle]

2 minutes ago, Sam P said:

Answers in above quote in BOLD

Data, yummy.

Watch the charge light, with engine off turn key on and wiggle it around, see if lamp lights or flashes. 

Do the same while giving the harness the wiggle test at suspected connections. 

[docc]

4 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

Data, yummy.

Watch the charge light, with engine off turn key on and wiggle it around, see if lamp lights or flashes. 

Do the same while giving the harness the wiggle test at suspected connections. 

+1 on "Wiggle Testing."

The corollary of my supposing that finding the charging fault may fix the light is: affecting the light may reveal the charging fault.

[audiomick]

4 hours ago, docc said:

It occurs to me that addressing the charging problem would be primary.

Once it is charging, the light behavior may take care of itself.

I'm not convinced about that, although, of course, you may be right.

Much thought on the topic has led me to believe that the light might have some intermittant defect that is making it difficult to see how the charging problem is behaving. The "voltage at the battery" values that @Sam P has confirmed, i.e. 13.x key off, 12.3 or so engine running regardless of r.p.m., indicate that it is never charging. The charge lamp, however, indicates that it is only failing to charge at revs above 4k. 

That is why I want to know whether the regulator is switching the contact for the warning light to ground always, or only at the higher revs, i.e. if the warning lamp is doing what the regulator tells it to do, or if the warning lamp has a fault of its own, independant of the charging problem.

[audiomick]

Incidendtally, @Sam P, with all this dicking around on a bike that is apparently not charging, don't forget to keep an eye on the charge state of the battery, and put it on a tender as necessary. If it is half flat, the fault finding wont get any easier. 

Edited yesterday at 11:07 PM by audiomick

[gstallons]

I hope on this forum (somewhere) Kiwi_Roy had a schematic of the Ducati Energia VR (dated 11-19-2020). This diagram is on this thread and the V11sport schematic (also Ducati Energia dated 06-02-2020) .These are not the same. I had these printed off and put in a binder. These two regulators have different internal circuitry. 

 Also there is  diagram and test procedure (V11Ducati regulator problems. This diagram shows two red wires joined together , two yellow wires and a white wire and a black wire coming from the regulator.

[gstallons]

6 hours ago, audiomick said:

Yes, at least in the one in Roy's schematic.

We don't know for sure how the one from Electrosport that @Sam P has installed works. That's why I suggested he check resistance between the warning lamp connection on the regulator and ground at key on, engine off, and then with the engine running at various speeds. Seeing what happens there should show what the lamp should be doing, and thereby give an indication of whether the lamp itself has a problem.

The light (I think) cannot be responsible for the problem but it is best to know for sure.

[Sam P]

On 9/16/2025 at 5:00 PM, docc said:

I don't think so (for our V11).

Yet, issues with this connector (indicator light and reference voltage) or its course of wiring/ connections might involve both the light behavior and the actual charging fault . . .

I had to seal mine at some point . . .

I just cleaned up this connector with Deoxit. Fired up the engine and am still seeing only 12.3vdc at the battery. Thought I should check the output voltage from the reg/rec going into this connection, which I have not done yet. What should the voltage be at idle and with some revs? If the voltage is not good, then the rec/rec is malfunctioning, correct? (I have tested the AC voltage from the stator yellow wires, and it looked OK).

[Sam P]

On 9/16/2025 at 6:41 PM, PJPR01 said:

Having read thru the the last couple of pages that were written in the last few hours.

12.3 while running is too low, do you have a comparison to what it was running at before changing the regulator? No, unfortunately.

Now, the light coming on at revs, suggests possibly that the lamp is vibrating in its holder and making some light contact.  Have you actually taken the dash apart (carefully) to look at the lights as well and see if they are seated properly? Not yet.

I just tested my Scura...13.3 at idle, 14.5 at revs...a few years ago, if my memory serves me correctly, Chuck had advised me to upgrade the wire on the voltage regulator and to use a star washer there where it grounds as well for better contact.  Have you checked the grounding of the regulator? Yes. I have a 10AWG wire from one of the reg mounting bolts to the timing case. Surfaces were filed treated with Deoxit prior to affixing ring connectors. Disconnected and capped factory 16AWG black ground wire.

Answers to your questions in BOLD above. Thank you.