Fuel line coupling, again....

[audiomick]

I went at taking off the tank of the Le Mans today, and had a bugger of a time releasing the fuel line couplings (Fuel pump in tank, if that is relevant...).

On the German forum, I've seen a couple of links for a tool specifically for those sort of coupling. The only one I could find was this

https://www.ebay.de/itm/312456395437?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0&ssspo=1p-7cXsKRVe&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=BB8lR4S0S6q&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

allegedly, the green one is the one to use.

The thing is, I don't like the look of those. I reckon they look like cheap crap.

Does anyone know a source for this type of tool from a quality supplier?

[docc]

Looks like a @gstallons question . . .

[gstallons]

IDK how much they are or if they come in a set. IIRC , the way the coupling works is to push the fuel line into the coupling , then push the inner portion into the outer and allow the line to come off. It may work the first time and it may take 20 attempts before it works. Jus remember to push the connector together before you do anything. There needs to be a video on how to disconnect this. 

 The pliers look like they will work. After buying SnapOn primarily these look like a bargain !

Edited 22 hours ago by gstallons
more info

[Speedfrog]

3 hours ago, audiomick said:

Does anyone know a source for this type of tool from a quality supplier?

Yes, they are pretty crude stamped steel chinesium offering but the thing is that they are a simple tool for a simple task and they work fine, helps squeeze the retaining collar on the QD fuel line connector. Much easier than with fingers, especially if you have big hands and arthritic fingers like me.  

And they used to be priced accordingly, I got mine for less than $12 on Ebay a while back, now close to $30       Linky

Edited 21 hours ago by Speedfrog
spelling

[gstallons]

Let me look and see what  my pliers look like.

[gstallons]

I don't have anything that looks like these. I would get those. You can try it w/o them . Just remember to push the fittings together and then push the "loose" portion away from the coupling and pull away from the fitting.

[gstallons]

Once you get an understanding of how it works you will be p.o'd AFA the removal procedure and how simple it is .

 Caterpillar had come up w/a new style of "push-lock" hose connection and I wasn't installing it (the new hose) correctly. After 3 attempts and probably 30 gallons of hydraulic fluid spraying the underneath of this "Bobcat" I figured out what I was doing wrong. 

[PJPR01]

14 hours ago, audiomick said:

I went at taking off the tank of the Le Mans today, and had a bugger of a time releasing the fuel line couplings (Fuel pump in tank, if that is relevant...).

On the German forum, I've seen a couple of links for a tool specifically for those sort of coupling. The only one I could find was this

https://www.ebay.de/itm/312456395437?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0&ssspo=1p-7cXsKRVe&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=BB8lR4S0S6q&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

allegedly, the green one is the one to use.

The thing is, I don't like the look of those. I reckon they look like cheap crap.

Does anyone know a source for this type of tool from a quality supplier?

I have that set and it works perfectly…have used it a half dozen times, good workmanship on the tool, you will not wear it out.

[audiomick]

Thanks for the answers.

First up, I do know how the connectors work. I even have a couple of spares in a box in the garage, and practised with them before going at it on the bike.

What hasn't been mentioned: it is very helpful to disconnect the fuel pump, start the bike, and let it run until it stops before one tries to disconnect the coupling. This relieves the pressure in the fuel lines, making the whole thing much easier. Last time I did it, I got the thing apart first go after doing that.

This time round, the battery was not in the bike, and I was not motivated to go back home and get it out of the cellar and put it in. I thought that after nearly a year of standing around, there wouldn't be much pressure left in the system. In hindsight, I probably should have put the battery back in. There is a German expression that translates as "in hindsight is one always wiser"... 

Regarding the tools: the ones I first found are a set, and were on e-bay for about €20.- . I have since found out that KS Tools offers a set that looks almost identical, but *might* be better quality for about €50.- . Still thinking about it, but I'm likely to buy a set, and probably the one from KS.

[PJPR01]

3 hours ago, audiomick said:

Thanks for the answers.

What hasn't been mentioned: it is very helpful to disconnect the fuel pump, start the bike, and let it run until it stops before one tries to disconnect the coupling. This relieves the pressure in the fuel lines, making the whole thing much easier. Last time I did it, I got the thing apart first go after doing that.

Regarding the tools: the ones I first found are a set, and were on e-bay for about €20.- . I have since found out that KS Tools offers a set that looks almost identical, but *might* be better quality for about €50.- . Still thinking about it, but I'm likely to buy a set, and probably the one from KS.

It's like a pair of chopsticks...wood or ivory.  Both work, both will last, you won't need this tool on a regular basis forever...maybe once a year at most.  Trust me, you will not wear out the green one or break it.  If you want to spend money, buy a metal fuel disconnect from Beemer Boneyard that is lovely metal and will allow you avoid having to use this tool at all...you'll just need to cut into the fuel line to add it in parallel...that would be a better spend.

There's also no need to relieve the pressure, but be prepared for gas to come out of the tank once the line is disconnected so having a relatively empty fuel tank is a good idea, and having a handy tube that is already inserted into a multi gallon/liter container to catch any overflow to put on the spigot once the fuel line is disconnected is helpful to avoid spilling gas on the garage floor or work area.

The green one works perfectly, use it gently, no need to force anything.   The orientation of which side goes where will be obvious once you put it on the fuel line and connector.  Worst case scenario, you buy a new spigot for Guzzibits.

Edited 2 hours ago by PJPR01

[Sempervee1]

 What I use from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Automobile-Remover-Pliers-Vacuum-Separator/dp/B07G5QSQFQ?

Edited 1 hour ago by Sempervee1