jrt Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 6204-LLB C3 and 6205-LLB C3 ....for about $4.50 each. SKF ones were only about $5.00 each FYI Is 6204/5 for right/left (or left/right)? That's interesting info! Thanks for sharing. I may have to order a pair just to have around. J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gh67 Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Is 6204/5 for right/left (or left/right)? That's interesting info! Thanks for sharing. I may have to order a pair just to have around. J 56548[/snapback] from all that I've seen, it is 6204 rear, 6205 front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 from all that I've seen, it is 6204 rear, 6205 front. 56552[/snapback] Don't forget about the 6304 as well. You might as well get the set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gh67 Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 Don't forget about the 6304 as well. You might as well get the set. 56565[/snapback] sorry for the confusion....I didn't mention that I'm doing an Ohlins fork retrofit with a Duc hollow axle. Those who have done this mod say that the new front axle uses 6205 on both sides. If you have Marz, then yes, better get a 6304 as well. mike/paul/david/Al .....can you confirm? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 sorry for the confusion....I didn't mention that I'm doing an Ohlins fork retrofit with a Duc hollow axle. Those who have done this mod say that the new front axle uses 6205 on both sides. If you have Marz, then yes, better get a 6304 as well. mike/paul/david/Al .....can you confirm? thanks 56570[/snapback] I believe you are correct....Atleast that was the case with my Marzocchi and Ohlins hollow axle retrofit. It is possible that later Marzocchi used the hollow axle and the two 6205 bearings. Man! GH and JRT did an awesome job shopping. Doesn't somebody on the list work for McMaster? Now, if we are all on a budget, it may make more sense to go with McMaster's part number 1968T37 However it may be too thin. But it is such super aircraft quality stuff, it should be strong enough. The axle is 20mm and the ID of the 1968T37 is just over 22mm. The 1968T37 is nearly half the price of the 1968T39 and the machining costs would be much lower. But is 2mm freeplay too much??? Is the pipe too thin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 Doesn't somebody on the list work for McMaster? 56572[/snapback] Oh yah, Thang, aka hgravelpha@aol.com is our guzzi riding man with the material connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 Oh... Christ on a bloody crutch!!!!!! C'mon guys, they are bloody wheel bearings! They turn over at glacial speeds in terms of roller bearings and will NEVER overheat unless something is wrong!!!!! The C1/2/3 designation is irelevant in this application APART from the extra few microns of side clearance being usefull for accounting for manufacturing tollerances in the wheel/spacer etc. What will, and does, kill sealed roller bearings stone dead is too much side thrust. What will cause this in this application? The spacer being too short and/or being compressed by over-torquing the spindle. The wheel bearings aren't actually *retained* in the wheel in any way, the outer races are just a press fit, (From memory?) in the wheel itself. Therefore the outer race can, and will, settle and find its own *correct* spot within a few minutes of operation. If they needed to be retained they'd have a sodding great circlip holding them in BUT retaining them that way requires all the relevant parts, wheel, spacer, bearings etc. have to be machined very much more precisely than your average mass production line will do. What is a problem, at least on 1100 Sports it is so I'd guess it's likely that the V11 is the same, is that the bearing spacer that goes between the bearings, rather than being made of a decent bit of steel pipe, is made of thin tube with a couple of crappy pressed tin *flanges* on it to help prevent it dropping into the wheel when the spindle is removed. Not only is this bit of shit so flimsy as to be almost impossible to machine accurately, (If it is?) it is so weak that even torquing up the spindle a bit vigorously would be more than sufficient to cause it to deform, it's easy to put hundreds of pounds of pressure on such a thing with a good heave on the spindle nut!!!! If the tube, which may or may not have been long enough in the first place, deforms and the outer races of the bearings seat fully home on their registers in the wheel itself as the nut is tightened the inner races will be pulled inwards and the bearings will be asked to take a side loading they were never intended too. Result? Lots of friction, lots of heat and rapid bearing failure. So why does this aflict 1100 Sports and V11's more tha any other machine? The simple answer is that they are made cheaply and poorly, sad but true. Once again this is an example of crappy execution of a very simple piece of engineering, it's a bloody wheel for fucks sakes, not the space shuttle!!!!! If you want a cure, once and for all, measure ACCURATELY the distance between the two bearing registers in the wheel and have a proper spacer machined from 2.5mm wall tube to that EXACT dimension +0.25mm. Get a pair of poxy 2RS/C3 bearings of the correct type, stick 'em in and forget about it for 100,000Km!!!! As for the crappy little needle roller in the bevelbox? What a prick of an idea!!! It even has a little hole in the race to encorage the ingress of water! WTF is all that about!!!!!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 God has spoken, and I agree with God. As for the crappy little needle roller in the bevelbox? What a prick of an idea!!! It even has a little hole in the race to encorage the ingress of water! WTF is all that about!!!!!!! Pete 56575[/snapback] I think that is about buying a standard needle roller and inner race designed originally for an oil fed or immersed application. Maybe Luigi got a job lot cheap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gh67 Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 ... it's a bloody wheel for fucks sakes, not the space shuttle!!!!! 56575[/snapback] ha ha! agreed pete...but can a guzzitsi sleep at night if there isn't something to be anal about? until something new F's up (knock on wood)....a wheel bearing is my biggest worry and damnit it I'm going to over-analyze the hell out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 measure ACCURATELY the distance between the two bearing registers in the wheel and have a proper spacer machined from 2.5mm wall tube to that EXACT dimension +0.25mm. And that's exactly the measurement I'm trying to get. hmm, gh makes a good point also. Half the fun of this is an overindulgence in typing and beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 sorry for the confusion....I didn't mention that I'm doing an Ohlins fork retrofit with a Duc hollow axle. Those who have done this mod say that the new front axle uses 6205 on both sides. If you have Marz, then yes, better get a 6304 as well. mike/paul/david/Al .....can you confirm? thanks 56570[/snapback] More confusion – I was referring to the 6304 at the rear, not the front forks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 And that's exactly the measurement I'm trying to get. 56586[/snapback] Well, you're just not trying hard enough, JR. Get the finger out, or I'll give you a B-. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 I think that is about buying a standard needle roller and inner race designed originally for an oil fed or immersed application. Maybe Luigi got a job lot cheap! 56577[/snapback] At least we know how to fix that one now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 ....I'll bet you drove it in by hammering on the outer race, possibly with a large socket to match the outer race.The inner and outer races should be driven in simultaneously..... Yeh...I did....I see your point. Would've hammered the outer home & misaligned the inner. But I still think it's important to get spacer right length & have outer races against their housings otherwise your gonna run into trouble w/clearance somewhere else - other spacer, caliper brkt etc. There's a set distance between s/a sides & if you set w/bearings wider something else isn't gonna fit. KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 ...Oh... Christ on a bloody crutch!!!!!! ... Oh no! HE's heard us know we'll cop it..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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