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The oil light , gen light and low fuel light are connected to the + terminal of the tach (I assume it works ?) , the front brake light switch (does it work?) , turn signals (do they work?) and rear brake light switch(does it work?)

I am trying to follow your analysis, which I appreciate, but do you have a recommendation for next steps? Perhaps I missed this.... Thank you in advance!

It means there is a resistance in there somewhere, but I think you know that. If my maths are correct, that would mean something is generating 0.8 Watts. That is, I reckon, to low for a light bulb, unless perhaps it is a small LED. Assuming there are no LED's involved, I'd be more inclined to suspect a bab connection, or maybe an incorrect measurement. For a good connection, I'd expect it to be less than 1 Ohm. It means the multi-meter is seeing the same resistance in all of its ranges. Up until 2000 Ohm, the resistance is big enough to register properly. In the 20kOhm setting, the meter is still seeing it, but rounding the actual 0.015 off to 0.01. In the 200kOhm setting the resistance is no doubt still being measured, but is too small for that range to appear on the scale.

Just cleaned up the connection, and re-tightened the ground wire. Turned key on, headlight and neutral light come on, but still no oil pressure or battery light.....

If the probe from the multi-meter wont go in, stick something in that will fit and measure off that. A paper clip, maybe...

You've mixed up terms there. You're not measuring current, that is the amount of electricity that is flowing at a point in time. You're measuring voltage. That's the "electrical pressure", correct term "electrical potential", that is present at that point in the circuit. You're quite right to consider whether the volts are being pushed in from the regulator or are coming from the battery. That is the correct question. The fact that the voltage is not changing at any revs indicates that the regulator is not "pushing volts into the battery". If it were, as has been mentioned further up, the voltage at that point should go up to around 14V at higher revs. It isn't, so the volts are getting lost in the regulator (it's malfunctioning) or not getting from the regulator to the battery (bad connection).

I think you have that the wrong way around. As far as I can tell, the black wire between that connector and the regulator feeds the 12V reference from the red-black wire into the regulator, and the white one is the connection from the warning lamp(blue wire) into the regulator. The voltages coming into the connector from the wiring loom should be close to the same as battery + at all revs. If the voltage coming in from the red-black wire deviates from battery + too much, the regulator will think the battery is not being charged and put too much voltage out on the feed to the battery. A "wrong" voltage on the blue wire coming into the white wire to the regulator should not be able to cause the regulator to malfunction. EDIT: I see @docc has already said that here:

@Sam P I was away over the weekend. Reading over what has been posted in the last couple of days, it seems you don't always know why you are measuring what people suggest. I made rough and simple sketch of the charging circuit, in the hope that it will confuse you even further maybe help a bit. Hope that helps you understand what is going on.

For the fools, including myself, who follow the owner's manual, but occasionally check for updates out there, and I include looking at car's as well, not just motorcycles. So far at 60K miles of use, the Norge hasn't blown up yet due to improper oil usage! Based on official documentation and owner discussions, Moto Guzzi has not changed the oil recommendation for the 2008 Norge. The manufacturer's specification has remained a high-quality 10W-60 synthetic motor oil. The original recommendation At launch, the official factory recommendation for the Norge was Agip 4T full synthetic 10W-60 oil. The reasons for this specific viscosity include: Air/oil-cooled engine: The air-cooled V-twin engines run hotter than liquid-cooled counterparts, and the 10W-60 weight helps the oil maintain its viscosity under high thermal stress. Higher film strength: The engine has specific characteristics, such as a dry clutch, that necessitate a high film strength oil for longevity. Updated guidance While the fundamental recommendation has not changed, the brand of oil has. Since the original Agip oil is now more difficult to find, Moto Guzzi recommends the equivalent Castrol Edge 10W-60 synthetic for its modern big-block engines. Considerations for older models Some owners of older Norge models have noticed changes in oil API (American Petroleum Institute) ratings over time. Specifically, some older formulations of Agip oil had a more desirable SG rating. Because newer formulations may have different ratings, many owners prioritize finding a quality 10W-60 synthetic oil with a higher concentration of zinc and phosphorus to protect the valve train. However, the 10W-60 viscosity remains the most critical specification.

Thanks, Phil. I'm aware that what is in the owner's or workshop book isn't likely to be the absolutely ideal option. Too many factors involved, and born out by having seen different recommendations for the same bike in different translations of the workshop book. To be quite honest, I'm also not looking for the absolute best solution for each of my bikes, but rather a solution that will cover all of them adequately. The old Guzzi bulletin seems to confirm that I can get away with one weight for all three. The reason is very simple: I don't have room to be keeping supplies of different oil for each motor and gearbox, and I also honestly can't be buggered. If I can find one that fits all without any of them exploding, I'm happy. I know that wont appeal to your engineer's sense of what is right, but I believe I'm justified in seeing myself to be following "the guidance for the wise", i.e. I consider it to be an informed decision. Hope I'm right.

On the main ground: looking for tha same approach you used on the timing chest ground: clean, remove any paint, DeOxit ( maybe a "star" lock washer to dog the connection in).

Update from yesterday evening: Plugged relay 2 back in. Battery terminals read 12.7 key off, 12.6 key on, 13.0 when I took it off the tender about an hour ago. Blue wire to harness 12.4v key on Red/black wire to harness 12.2v key on Re-attached harness black regulator ground. (Because the wire was not long enough to reach the regulator bolt, I attached it to the timing case bolt, from where my new 10AWG regulator ground goes to the regulator case). Next, with key on engine off, the headlight comes on, horn works, neutral light on, but no charging light or oil light. Main battery ground from gearbox seems intact, but there are a few sharp bends just before it attaches to the - terminal. I could try to eliminate the bends if it is recommended.

Funny. Phil

that is exactly what i want to do. i want to have the valve covers changed to red, and the footpeg plate holders to the dark matte silver colour. so the valve covers would be the only thing red on the bike, and pop, like you said...

Relay 2 , when it is energized powers up the low fuel , oil press. and gen. lights. It powers up the tach and these lights and other components. When you install the #2 relay and turn the switch to run position the headlight should come on proving the relay circuit is working and the instrument lights mention should come on too.

Oh crap, Relay 2 was not installed, sorry about that. Will reinstall the relay first thing tomorrow, and redo the voltage tests on the blue wire, as well as the red/black wire from the harness. Stay tuned and thank you again.

I told, y'all, already: "Boys, I'm goin' in " . . .

And that is with all of the relays installed? That harness red/black is the voltage reference to the regulator's black (input) wire. Should be battery voltage coming out of Relay#2 . . . edit: Both the blue and especially the red/black wires look rather kinked going into the back of that connector. If they are straightened, or "wiggled", does the voltage change?

Zero volts key off and key on, engine off.

I would take/post pictures but I can't hold a camera, light wiring harnesses correctly and press the button at the same time !

SanP , on my red frame the two red wires form one pin and they go into the red/green wire on the bike. The black wire goes down and grounds to the regulator mount.

Voltage on the red/black wire, KO/EO?

Zero volts on the blue wire. Battery terminals are at 13 volts

Well docc , the red/green wire is the wire that goes to F3. and I ASSUME the black wire is the ground to the battery. Let me go o/s and check my red frame to say yes.