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po18guy

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Everything posted by po18guy

  1. At the prior change, I noted that the HifloFiltros have an unusually thick and compressible gasket (about 8mm). Therefore, I tighten the filter until it bottoms, and one can easily feel when it does - less than that I would fear oil pressure blowing past the "spongy" gasket.
  2. GASKET REMINDER! Just pulled my HiFlo Filtro out and the rubber gasket remained in the engine. I noticed that as I tipped the filter over to empty it. The gasket came right off of the filter boss, but I seem to remember someone having oil light issues related to threading a new filter and gasket over the old stuck gasket. Best to check the bike's prostate and do the finger wave around the filter gasket boss.
  3. I take an angle grinder and feather the tires to the edges. Then I bevel the pegs at 45º. Then I pull up to the local bike hangout, hook my pants leg on one of the pegs and promptly fall over. Honestly, roughing the tires out to the edges might actually have benefit, in case you go in a little hot and have to tighten a corner up.
  4. From the "unwinding" of the spring at the time of failure, it appears that selector travel is a prime culprit.
  5. On my '04, there always seems to be about 1/2 second between button activation and starter engagement. Almost as if there is a slight time delay. Then, it seems as if the starter is shaken awake and must then lean into the task.
  6. I run nothing but 92 octane ethanol-free gas in my '04. With supposed 9.8:1 compression and old-school combustion chambers, high octane is the way to go. My ECU has been re-flashed, probably by Guzzi-Tech, but the label is unreadable. Never any trace of pinging. I would check your timing.
  7. I bought folding Ken Sean bar-end mirrors. They came with horrible soft rubber plugs that allowed the mirrors to vibrate too much and would not hold their position. I bought some Delrin rod online and worked them down so they would slip into the bars. Bored them through at 8mm and cut in two at a 60º or so angle so that they would wedge into the bar. Placed an M8 serrated flange nut on the inside and it stays in place when tightening them. They were a bit of a pain to fabricate, but have worked very well.
  8. I find checking the oil level to be a rather curious affair. Firstly, the dipstick enters the crankcase at an angle, which does not allow precise measurement. The lean angle of the bike when parked on the stand introduces another variable. Any change in the lean of the bike (suspension sag, tire height/profile, or slight uphill/downhill grade tosses another figurative wrench in the gears, said wrench invariably striking the shift detent spring. Was the bike, even though on the side stand, on a level surface? Or was it on a center stand or rear axle spool stand? Remember Emerson, Lake and Palmer's song, "The Endless Enigma"?
  9. Ain't it ever-so-Guzzi to install both heims on the shift linkage with the same threads? Adjust it all day and the lever moves not one bit. Or is it just my example?
  10. Beer > Tylenol > beer. Repeat as necessary.
  11. Then back off 1/4 turn. Same with stripping bolts.
  12. This fellow, who does a lot of tech vids, disagrees on 285º parallel twins.
  13. I also fell in love with the "Trixie." They are a cult bike elsewhere, still popular in Japan. The early models had oil consumption problems, which was the recall, if "I" recall correctly. I also looked at the more recent MT-07, which was the first wave of the new 270s. It was too much of a "transformer" style for me. The YZF-07 seems a rather nice bike, if slightly extreme for many "mature" riders. Yamaha is often odd-man out in engineering, trying all manner of new designs. In the 689 parallel twin, they moved the cylinder centerline forward in relation to the crank centerline. This gives the rod increased leverage over the crank as it fires. This changes crank angle at TDC, but they have dealt with that. But a piddling 65 BHP out of such a high-tech engine seems a waste, when 75-80 HP is available. Oh, well...
  14. Have you checked the web for Italian labor union strikes? There may be some sympathy programmed in somewhere. Couple of months ago, My V11 would not activate the starter on one particular day. Key off and on numerous times, pump priming, clutch in and out. Finally had to pop a vein and bump start it. Cleaned the micro-plunger in the clutch safety micro switch, the micro switch clicked in and out as it should. Was fine for a couple of weeks, then did it again, but has not ever since. I do now tend to park with a grade to bump start it though. We hear a lot about "AI" these days. I am much more concerned with "IE" - Italian Electrics.
  15. Too many other ships telling you to lower your high beams.
  16. They do have junk in their trunk. I was hoping for an update of the MKI LeMans, with the safety orange/red bikini fairing. The V11 quarter fairings are very functional, but lacking in aesthetics.
  17. Well, mine would have to actually start first... The early models, although not really lighter, have a cleaner, more compact look. The longer ones have that cantilevered fairing - good thing I'm sitting behind it. LM plastic always struck me as bulbous. Would like something in between, but I'm playing Goldilocks here.
  18. I learned this from Kevin Cameron's writings in Cycle Magazine. Reciprocating engines do not have a 100% consistent crankshaft RPM. At each firing impulse, the cranks accelerates slightly and on each compression stroke of each revolution, it slows a bit. If you could graph it,the variation in rotational speed could be seen. How this manifests in the V11 would seem to be: the transmission input shaft runs through the clutch disc via a splined connection. There is necessary clearance in those splines so that the clutch disc can freely disengage. Engine out of the bike, you can rattle the input shaft in the clutch disc, even though it is a relatively tight fit. Each firing impulse - especially at idle - clanks those clutch splines against the input shaft splines - first against one side of the splines as the crank accelerates, then against the other side as the crank slows on compression stroke. We are talking only a few thousandths clearance here, but it does make noise, especially with dry clutches in a notice: "bell" housing. Wet clutches do not exhibit this nearly as much, as the splines are cushioned by oil, whereas the Guzzi splines are dry. The same to a lesser extent with the transmission gears engaged by the input shaft - they also make some noise, but they run in lube, which cushions and quiets the blow. There is a solution, but it would involve a heavier, more complex clutch disc with spring-loaded "scissor splines." Not worth the cost and effort. Pull the clutch lever in and the clutch disc and transmission input shaft stop rotating and thus the "spline-banging" stops. Singles and twins are worst at this, as their crankshaft accel/decel cycles are more violent. Multi-cylinder engines have smoother crank rotation speeds. Somewhat related, years back, Honda had split cam drive gears with a preload between the two halves of the gear to remove the backlash between the gears. This reduced noise - IIRC it was on their 750 V4 Interceptors so that it could pass noise laws. It also reduced dynamic stresses between the gears. Here is a web article which explains far better than I can. https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=437206 The third answer is from someone in the aero industry: "tbuelna (Aerospace) 1 Apr 18 01:09 It's called a scissor gear. They're used on engines with cam/accessory gear drives to reduce dynamic tooth loads due to torsional oscillations. In the case of your Toyota cam gear, the torsional oscillations are produced by the varying forces acting on the cam lobes. There is a moment in one direction as each leading cam flank pushes a valve open, and a moment in the opposite direction as the valve spring pushes against the trailing cam flank during closing. Conventional gears (not scissor gears) require some amount of backlash at the mesh to prevent interference. When there is backlash, reversing torsional oscillations will cause high dynamic contact loads on the gear tooth flanks at the mesh. These high dynamic tooth contact forces also produce noise. While a scissor gear can reduce dynamic tooth loading and noise, it also involves some mechanical losses. You'll see them used on other engines like Cummins diesels and Honda motorcycle engines"
  19. Exact same noise as in my 2004 Ballabio. The rattle with the clutch disengaged is dry clutch rattle. When idling, the rattle strikes me as the input shaft /splines/gears rattling from the rapid acceleration/deceleration of the crank between firing impulses. The Red Line trans lube "Shock-proof" pretty much tells the story.
  20. I blame Iceland splitting in two for all of this.
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