Chuck

Scud.. I haven't read this whole thread, but The final answer to my old Centauro's hiccup was a brass temp sensor holder. It also cured my Kid's greenie back in the day, and a couple of other Centauros that I tuned for guys.

I had heard about the importance of keeping the electric bits together, but I always appreciate a timely reminder. And I have previously installed the bonus ground wire. That job doesn't look so bad after all - but it will have to wait till the LeMans gets back together. Nothin to it, really..

From the left side. The handle will barely clear the muffler when everything is straight.

Well, I can't do it and take pix at the same time, but basically stand the bike vertical or a little toward you and fit the stand notch on the nut you can see using the handle in your right hand. Peer over the seat and see where the stand is in relation to the opposite nut. Get it close, still using the handle with your right hand. Push the handle down a little, and you'll feel it engage. (or not) This will also move the bike more to the vertical. Be ready for that. No need to let it fall over on it's right side. One last look to make sure it is engaged, and push the handle down. Nothin to it.

Is it an 1100 cc V-twin snowblower? I've appreciated your past tool recommendations, such as the Pit Posse wheel bearing remover (works like a charm). Could I trouble you for a suggestion about exactly what rotor removal tool to get? BTW - I ordered a timing cover gasket today. No rotor removal tool needed on the Ducati alternator. It'll come right off. Keep the rotor and stator together, it's a permanent magnet alternator, and can lose it's ju ju if the rotor and stator are separated for an extended period. You *do* know about the external ground wire to the regulator on this system, right?

Ok, I've read the whole thread, now. Thought you were just asking how the PRV worked. I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings, but as I've said many times, "If you look for problems on an old machine, you *will* find them." If that tab on the gasket has been missing for a long time.. I'm betting it has because of the abnormal wear on the thrust washers.. it could very well have had low oil pressure for an extended period. If so, your bearings "might" be toast. What I would do is check the PRV. Put the new gasket on. Check oil pressure. Pressure ok? You probably dodged a bullet. Still low? *Now* it's time to investigate the bearings. Report back before doing that.

Scud, here's how the pressure relief valve works. This is a small block PRV from the Aero engine conversion, but they work the same.. Nothing but a piston closed by a spring. The washers control spring pre load. Simple.. but.. Here's a quicky test rig I made up. Pressure is controlled by an unseen regulator. The Lario PRV blew off at 20 lbs. (!) Washers made very little difference. I used some fine lapping compound, and lapped the piston into the orfice. Viola! 75 lbs. Need I say to clean the lapping compound out very well? I would look here, first.

Yeah, but he had to get a real job.. I think the combo of Guzzi and Ural put him under.

Both. I live near Elwood on a farm. Bikeseamus kept emailing me about various V11s he had found here and there, asking if they were worth the money, and I told him.. for that price, you could have Rosie. "Sold." Oops. Yeah.. I'll be around. There are several Guzzi guys in Indiana that I haven't met, yet..

Hey, Scud and Rox.. here's a couple of more pix from roads we never explored at all. There are many.. As you said, pictures don't do them justice. I don't normally go out on weekends or holidays..why fight the traffic.. but it suddenly dawned on me that this trip will more than likely be the last time the Mighty Scura will see real twistys. (!) I'll probably go out Saturday and Sunday, too. Strangely enough, there weren't any soccer moms in the canyons today..

Well, I'm late (as usual) to this thread. Haven't been here lately, I've been doing the Aero Engine in a Lario thing. Sold my Rosso Corsa because I found when I opened the garage door I'd back out the Lario mot of the time. Besides that, I'll be taking the Mighty Scura back to Indiana this summer and bringing out an MZ Skorpion for the hills. It was a good time, of course. Great to have met Scud and Rox. I just tried to give them an overview.. there are some wonderful roads in these hills. Uh, yeah.

Yep..

True.. true..

See? Piece of cake. The 00s? Not so much.

Rosie has had a little seep on the left jug since I got her. Thought, oh.. valve cover gasket. Replaced that. Still leaking. Put one of the nice thick green ones on there and filed the bottom of the valve cover flat. Fixing the wrong thing. Decided it must be the blanking plug o ring. Put a new one on there. No cigar. Cleaned it up and dusted baby powder all around, and it looked like it was coming from a valve cover screw. The Distinguished Previous Owner had dropped her on the left side, so I cleaned that up, put aviation Permatex on the screw, and called it fixed. Ran 700 miles to NW Arkansas on back roads in 40s weather, and saw just a little oil again. Thought, WTF? Ran twistys at 6000 + rpm for about 70 miles, and had oil clear back to the pork chop. Not a lot, mind you.. but certainly aggravating. This time, I cleaned it up really well and sprayed this aviation leak detector on it. Let her idle a bit.. didn't see a thing. The light comes on.. "Must need to be really hot to leak" so took her for a blast of hard running. Well well. I've never seen this one.. Yep, it's a pin hole in the valve cover flange all right. A pin will go right into it. Cleaned it up with thinner, etc. made up some JB Weld, and tried to squeegee it in. Time will tell...

I think that's a different problem, supposedly there's some bullet connectors under the tank. Mine was acting similar, would only crank at full lock but before I investigated it fixed itself, a picture showing location of these mythical bullet connectors would be nice, my bike's half a world away at the moment. Sorry, no pix. The bullet connectors are up by the steering neck on the left side.

Ok, I got it. Ground up a punch to fit and put it in the drill press to use as an arbor press. Pushed down one tab, and levered the top back. Wrapped some safety wire on it to keep that tab from reengaging, turned to the next one, and cave manned that one, too. After that, it decided to give up. Yeah, there's a broken solder joint. Kind of cheesy.. no strain relief or anything. Probably why the FAA doesn't allow soldered connections. Back together tomorrow, and it'll be good for another 14 years.

Hi, folks.. I'm trying to help out a friend with a 00 greenie. No power to F5&F6, so traced it to the 4 pin connector that comes from the ignition switch. Took off the electrical part of the switch to see if it has a broken wire/solder joint, etc. and don't want to break it. Do you just push down on the three places here with all three hands to pull off the back? TIA

I used this method without issue on Rosie, the 03 Rosso, and the Mighty Scura. My kid had a 00 greenie, and said he couldn't do it. "They said it couldn't be done, so I tackled it with a grin. I couldn't do it, either." Had to pull the rear drive on it for whatever reason..

How could I possibly refuse such an offer? Absolutely we'll setup a "date" and get together. Can't be this weekend, some Indiana guys are headed to Arkansas for some hooliganism.

Here's the on line shop manual.. http://thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/workshop_manual_v11_en.pdf

Joe, if you have any problems.. bring it over. I can walk you through this stuff, and I have Guzzidiag for seting the TPS, along with carb sticks for setting the TBs.

Just checking in. Welcome to being as LeMans keeper. I can't tell you how many times I've heard that one. I was the same way. Once I "got it" I've never looked back. I'm near Elwood, btw.. we need to get together and swap lies.. Oh, not to worry about the clutch noise. Guzzis make all kinds of noises, none of them fatal except Roper's "Dogga Dogga" noise..

You say it's done it since new. Hmmm. My first thought was the start relay.. the most forward one in the stack.. or the terminals it fits into. My Scura does this occasionally, and all I have to do is pull the relay, spritz the legs (with Caig DeOxit Gold) of it and the relay base, wiggle it around a bit, you get the picture. But you say putting a new relay in it fixes it for a while sometimes? Hmmm again. Maybe it's a combination of corrosion on the relay base, a connector, and ignition switch finally making a click? I'd take everything in the circuit apart and spritz DeOxit in every connector. Now, it could be that it is the solenoid is hanging up. I've seen that one, too, but again, you said it's done it since new, so I wonder about that. At any rate, I'd replace (or clean) it if the above doesn't do it.

Yeah. If you don't get an easy solution, give me a ping on WG, I'll most likely see it there..