Chuck

Roy, FWIW, on my Scura and Darth Quota before that, the generator light just seems to come on or not because of some vagaries in phases of the moon. Just sayin. As near as I can tell, when the light comes on, it means the bulb isn't burnt out.. both bikes were exactly the same..unpredictable.

Cam, before you spend a lot of money.. Did you buy that leak down tester yet? If so, here's what you can do. Bring it up to exactly TDC to fire the suspect cylinder. Turn on the air to the leak down tester, and set it at 80psi. What's it read? Below 70 on the second gauge? Leaking out of a valve? Take a copper or brass hammer (or a claw hammer and piece of wood or plastic and hit the rocker arm enough to open the valve. Naturally, the spring will close it. Do this several times. Watch the second gauge and see what the pressure is. Many times, it is nothing more than carbon (or corrosion) lightly holding a valve off the seat, and causing a leak. This is called "staking the valves" in aircraft maintenance, and is commonly done. I've seen many cylinders come back to normal (mid 70s) with this technique.. Edit: forgot to tell you why this works.. keeping air pressure in the cylinder blows the carbon and/or corrosion out that is dislodged by the valve hitting the seat.

The V11s seems to me to be a little more "elemental" if you will. They never let you forget that you are operating a machine, know what I mean? Besides that, they're the last of the *real* Guzzis. My aging neck has had problems with sporty bikes for years, but the Scura with adjustable clipons is quite comfortable for me. Welcome to the forum, btw.

2Guzzidave had mistrals and stock crossover on his greenie for a year or so before putting on a stucci crossover. Woo eee, did that crossover make a difference..

Gotta agree. At least they wouldn't breed. I *hate* rip off artists..

Naaa, Dis side and Snot dis side..

The left is as if you are sitting on the bike. It's standard practice. Watch for the intake valve to open, and then close on the left cylinder as you are turning it with a wrench on the alternator nut. It will then be coming up on the compression stroke. You check the valves at Top Dead Center of the compression stroke. If you take out the rubber plug on the right side, you can see the flywheel. When it is on TDC of the left cylinder, you will see an S (Snot dis side) itsa eye talian. Do the valve adjust, then keep turning the crankshaft 270 degrees, and you will see a D (Dis side) on the flywheel. Adjust that cylinder. Easy Peasey. Search is your friend, btw.. there are many threads here, and on other sites it this isn't plain enough.

I'd like to find a V11S right side Staintune muffler to replace the one that Roper used for a frame slider..

Probably what you'll find is corrosion on either the relay/base (forward one) and or the fuse connectors, and or the wire that hooks to the small terminal on the starter solenoid. All these add up to a high resistance connection, and will pop the fuse. Oh, yeah.. the starter button,too. Getcha some good safe for plastic electrical cleaner.. I like Caig DeOxit.. and have at it. If that doesn't cure it, you probably have a dirty solenoid.

I'm curious: Why is there an electric petcock anyway if the engine won't run w/o the fuel pump working? Glad to hear how easy the fix was for you, but I'm left wondering if the permanent fix isn't to just permanently jamb the darn thing open & stop having to fiddle with it ever after? There is an electric petcock because Guzzi has a barrel full of them to use up, as far as I know. It came out on the Convert, and is a good idea for carbed bikes. No use whatsoever on a fuel injection bike. You gotta love em..

That will be the connections under the tank on the left side, I think it was the wires from the clutch/side stand are a bit loose. Just a wee crimp with pliers and thats another problem out of the way!!!. My bike does exactly the same from time to time, full right lock and it starts every time. One of these days I will have to fix it. I figured it was a broken wire but I will check the connectors first as you suggest. You Know what they say about a mechanics car, it applies also to an electricians bike, I'd rather be riding than wrenching LOL I like to apply vaseline to all the connectors also, prevents any corrosion issue Cheers Roy Like Grossohc said, it will be on the left side by the steering head. Bullet connectors. Take em apart, squirt them with Wayne's De Oxit gold, make sure they fit reasonably well and forget about it. Maybe a little Kiwi Roy vaseline on the outside..

Large Short sleeve T in Red. Hey,I have a urinal too.

I added ~ 5.25 gallons when I filled it up and I had probably .25 of a gallon from my can before I filled at the station. Bob Purty..

there are throttle stop screws (on each throttle body) that need to be backed out all the way before you set the baseline. Hi Fotoguzzi I know about this and the screws have been backed out Unhook the balance rod to the right injector, back off the idle stop screw, actuate the injector manually a couple of times to make sure its closed, and set the TPS at 150mv is what I did on Centauros. The trim pot in the computer is for idle mixture, but affects the mixture up to 4K or so IIRC. Has nothing to do with the TPS.

I suppose I should chime in.. Hi, I'm Chuck, and I'm a Guzziholic. : Test rode a Guzzi in 98, and haven't looked back. This summer, I picked up Roper's hot rod Scura, and I think it's going to be my favorite motorcycle of all time..

That's an excellent idea Chuck. When I was prying the crimp up I saw the bezel flexing and thought that making a "nest" for it would make it easier but I didn't have the right hole saw available. Since you cut the hole .005 larger I'm guessing you have some machine tools available? I'm jealous. Did you come up with a better tool than a ground & bent screwdriver for prying up the crimp on the bezel? Yeah, I have a machine shop, and nope, did it like you did..

For quite a few years when I was younger I rode dirt bikes (enduros)and have crashed many (!) times. I'd never been down on a street bike until a couple of years ago a freak accident had me sliding on chip and seal. For me, time slows down in something like this, and I had plenty of time to double my fists (keeps fingers from breaking) crossed my arms over my chest (you don't want your limbs flailing about, and kept my legs together. I was wearing Elkskin Ropers, and they burned through on one knuckle. I'll never wear gloves without knuckle protection again..

When I did it, I bored a hole .005" larger in diameter than the bezel in some plastic sheet, and pushed it in. That keeps the bezel from deforming,and makes an easier job of it..

Mine (x Roper Scura) occasionally does this, too.Sometimes I can feel it come back to center(delayed) and sometimes it sticks down. When it does, I can pick it back up with my toe. Unfortunately, it generally only does it in L.A. traffic, and I can't stop and see what is happening. When I try to make it stick, I can't do it. Only seems to do it when hot. Linkage appears to be tight and works smoothly. The lever just kisses the pork chop when pushed fully down. Is this the problem?

#372 is in California

Good morning, folks. I've just bought Roper's Scura,serial no. 372, and am having a *really* good time with it. The only real issue I have with it is the steering damper has some stiction before it starts to move. There's also not much difference from full soft to full hard. I'm thinking it just needs cleaned, fresh oil, etc. I've searched, but the search function seems to be wonky. Has anyone rebuilt the Ohlins damper? TIA, Chuck