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Lucky Phil

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Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. Worked on the sump and oil system today. Fitted it all up along with the ubiquitous Roper Plate. Engine kind of looks like a beach whale now resting on its flywheel. Next mission is to make a wooden engine support for the sump so I can get it upright again and pre oil the engine. For all the external fasteners I invested in all new Titanium fasteners. I cant stand the way passive plated ones weather and look horrible after a while. They are costly but if you sell the bike you can always swap them back to the std type and the new owner wont care or be the wiser. Its only nutters like me that will know,and everyone here now. New filter screen. Very nice oil filter access plate thanks to scudd.
  2. Lucky Phil

    DSC00779.JPG

    From the album: V10 Engine

  3. Original oil pressure relief valve spring on the left and replacement on the right. Original wont get you past 55psi crack pressure, new spring takes you to the 70psi required. Heads are on, just sump to fit, prime the oil system then fit the oil pump drive, front cover and do the cam timing. Ciao
  4. Thanks antmanbee, very kind of you. Ciao
  5. Thanks Pete, much appreciated. Ciao
  6. I'm with you Pete if someone could add me to your order I'd be greatfull and could help out with the shipping of course. Ciao
  7. Hi Meinolf, is there any difference between the old large style TPS voltage profile and the later smaller version. I'd like to use the Centauro throttle bodies with the larger style TPS when I fit the engine to my 2000 V11 greeny which uses the 15RC ( I think?) ecu and smaller TPS. Thanks Ciao
  8. What about the ignition pickup/pickup gap? Ciao
  9. Lucky Phil

    DSC00775.JPG

    Original oil pressure relief valve spring on the left and replacement on the right. Original wont get you past 55psi crack pressure, new spring takes you to the 70psi required.
  10. Lucky Phil

    DSC00778.JPG

    From the album: V10 Engine

  11. Lucky Phil

    DSC00777.JPG

    From the album: V10 Engine

  12. If you need to use a hose clamp around the filter then there's something wrong with the filter the filter threaded adapter or your installation technique. I dont feel the need for a hose clamp around any of the other 6 vehicles I own apart from the Guzzi why should it need one? Ciao
  13. I just do it through the round port access cover, and yes it can be tricky to get the thread started. Ciao
  14. Just some feedback on the timing gears. Rode into the city yesterday for lunch with my wife which entailed about 60klms of freeway riding at 100 klm/h in 26 degC heat at around 2900-30000 rpm indicated. It still coughs and stumbles at around 3000 rpm occasionally. So the gears aren't the answer to that it seems. looks like mapping. Ciao
  15. Lucky Phil

    DSC00772.JPG

    From the album: V10 Engine

  16. Well its been a busy time with other stuff unfortunately such as my lathe breaking down and requiring motor disassembly and centrifugal switch work and a new start capacitor. Its still a work in progress as I await the new capacitor.The rocker shims arrived and a new learning in the form of a rocker arm with end faces that aren't machined perpendicular with the pivot axis so getting the end float right is a matter of using the smallest gap. Its too awkward to hold in the lathe to machine the faces and I dont think it will be an issue so I'll leave it as is. The new Oil pressure spring also arrived so it was onto testing the crack pressure with that fitted. It wasnt a successful outcome I'm afraid. The new spring is around 2 mm longer than the old spring but its still not enough to get me the required 70psi crack pressure. Even if I shim the spring to a silly amount its still not enough. So after time spent lapping the valve and getting the sealing faces as perfect as they are ever going to be I'm here to say that there is no way 70 psi of oil pressure is possible with this spring. I figure that the valve will need a minimum of 6mm of stroke. The spring with 18mm of preload will accomplish that but all I can achieve is 55psi crack pressure. The new std spring is in the 10.8lb of seat pressure at 18 mm of preload. So either I accept 55 psi or look for a heavier spring. So here's one for the more knowledgeable than I. I have tested the new springs at 0.6lbs/mm ( I know mixed parameters) so at 18mm of preload I'll have a seat pressure of 10.8 lbs. My calculation for spring pressure required is as follows. Assuming I need 70psi, for crack pressure and assuming I had 1 sq inch of piston/valve area then Id need a spring that provides 70lbs of seat force. What I actually have is a valve that presents 95.4 sq/mm to the oil supply which is 14.8% the area of 1 sq/in (which is 645.16 sq/mm) so 14.8% of 70 pounds is 10.36 pounds of seat pressure required. The new spring is giving 10.8lbs of seat pressure and I'm nowhere near the 70psi crack pressure. Any Ideas? Is my spring rationale calculation lacking? Spring tester. New spring Old spring New spring Old spring Ciao
  17. Lucky Phil

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    From the album: V10 Engine

  18. Lucky Phil

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    From the album: V10 Engine

  19. Lucky Phil

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    From the album: V10 Engine

  20. Lucky Phil

    DSC00767.JPG

    From the album: V10 Engine

  21. Lucky Phil

    DSC00766.JPG

    From the album: V10 Engine

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