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Lucky Phil

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Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. Looks fine docc. Fit up the new stuff as you said. Ciao
  2. Grind or rat tail file some notches on one end of the new one docc so you can get a narrow ended drift on the inner race. Even with the collars you can usually get enough radial movement on the spacer to help get the drift on the inner race. After you install one of the bearings drop the spacer in and check how it levels up with the bore end face on the other side. Remember the bearing will have a little lateral play to take into consideration. Ciao
  3. I'd keep the the collars as you have found the spacer drops down and axle fitment is a pain. Some spacers have a notch ground on the face of one end so you can get a drift down the bore from the opposite end and get some purchase on the inner race for removal. I forget if the Guzzi has this or not but when I have them out I always grind another notch opposite the original if it has one or grind 2 notches for ease of bearing removal in the future. My rear spacer had a collar standard. Some spacers only have 1 collar and you can then lever the spacer over a little on the non collar end and get a better purchase on the inner race for drifting as well. Ciao
  4. The collars on the spacer? Ciao
  5. Oh, ok docc, I skimmed through the original posts again but missed the only 600 mile life. That's very bad indeed. Its always a worry when something unexplained like this happens. All you can do is assemble it all with the best engineering practice you can and monitor the results this time. Cant see why it shouldn't work out better than the original bearings with the correct spacer. If you are really keen you can flip out the seals from the failed bearings and wash out any lubricant and debris and use a magnifying glass and look at the races and see where on the races the wear and failure point is. Is it central to the race which would indicated the bearing has been overloaded or too tight in the bore or lacked lubrication or if the wear and failure indications is a little offset which would indicate lateral overloading from a short spacer. Ciao
  6. Noise from cam gears is not really an issue. Honda V4's like my old RC30 and VFR750 had gear driven cams and met noise regs for road bikes. They incorporated backlash gears with the cam drive gears to help them run quieter. Ducati Desmosedici's are gear driven cams and are noise compliant road bikes. Lots of engines use a gear and chain hybrid drive for the cams these days. The Caruso gears in the V11 run very quiet. I can hear them but thats because I'm listening for them otherwise I wouldnt be able to tell them from the chain driven cam. Ciao
  7. Yes 8 X 1mm thread. Torque, 2-2.2 kgm with loctite 601. Ciao
  8. Didn't you ascertain docc the spacer was 0.045" too short docc? If that's the case there's your prime reason. Ciao
  9. Taking off the transmission cover wont get you access to the clutch push rod. Did you reinstall the clutch push rod button in the clutch when you re assembled it? If you mean the slave cylinder securing screw head is chewed out then you really should fix that by drilling the head off and then removing the other 2 screws ,pulling the slave cylinder and then extracting the remaining stud. If its the thread stripped then you can remove the slave and timesert or helicoil it. Either way you should really do it. It just requires swing arm removal for access which is fairly easy. Ciao
  10. The pickup tube thats part of the whole lube assy enters the screen unit from a hole in the top.The filter unit itself is bolted to the sump floor. Its there to stop any particles larger than around 1/4mm from entering the pump. I fitted a new one to my Daytona engine during the rebuild as a precaution. Not the sort of thing you need to worry about very much. I wouldnt do a sump drop just to check its clean but if you have it off take a look. Ciao
  11. Both of my bevel boxes have radial play. I don't like it but it doesn't seem to be an issue. It's also easy to mistake play in the outer bearing with wear in the small inner. There is a technique to distinguish the two I posted a few years ago. you can't really use the lock ring to eliminate the play either by tightening. I found when my rear wheel bearing badly worn I had a clatter feel through the footpeg with the throttle in a float setting. Power on and in the overrun was ok. ciao
  12. Radial play on the outer input shaft bearing is normal Docc, you can't eliminate it unless it's originating from the small inner "nose bearing" on the pinion. Ciao
  13. Or it has the Ethanol swollen tank issue? Ciao
  14. Yep the red frames are the ones to have. Anything else is a fat horrid lazy barge who's owners should be shunned........ Ciao
  15. Like this docc. You compress the ends and lock them via a knurled section on the end of the handle then insert them down the bore or hole and unlock them. You then feel them around until they are at the largest dia point and lock again. Remove and measure with your Mike or vernia calipers. Very cheap, this set is $36.95AU on ebay. Ciao
  16. Brake rotor ridge is no problem docc, just use the calipers in enough of a radial position to avoid the ridges. The other thing you need is a set of telescoping gauges for measuring hole ID's. Use in concert with your calipers. They are as cheap as chips, maybe $30US. Ciao
  17. Not an easy job I'm afraid. I recently replaced the rear eye end on the Ohlins shock ( TTX race shock) on my 1198 as I fitted a flat rear link which required a shorter eye end. To replace the bump stop you will need to remove the spring then the eye end or completely disassemble the rear shock and remove the piston from the shaft and fit it that way. I can tell you that to remove the eye end you will need a shock shaft clamp which isnt that hard to make. Biggest issue is though that sometimes you need to actually put this in an hydraulic press to hold the shaft while you apply a lot of heat to the eye end to break the thread locker. You will probably need to remove the eye end bearing so its not heat damaged to do this. So best case scenario is make a shaft clamp, remove the spring with a spring compressor, remove the eye end bearing ( pressed in) clamp up the shaft in a vice with the shaft clamp fitted and use a propane torch to heat the eye end while you try to unscrew it. Re fitting is easy. New bump stop, fit the eye end with a new bearing ( you may as well) refit the eye end, with thread locker and refit the spring. The easy way.......take it to an Ohlins specialist and he should have it done in 30 min max. Cost me $60 to get done and he did it while I went and had a coffee. This specialist was a national superbike race team that ran Ohlins suspension and the mechanic told me about the eye end removal difficulty and the sometime requirement for the shaft clamp to need to be in the press. Not common knowledge even for shock specialists. Dan Kyle the US Ohlins dealer I bought the shock off also recommended using plenty of heat for the eye end removal. If you take it to the suspension specialist it may be worth mentioning this technique just in case they run into issues. Ciao
  18. So I moved onto the side flow injector throttle bodies. I wanted to remove the injectors and run them in the ultrasonic cleaner as I had no idea of their history and they had been sitting around for years. I envisaged a painful time of it and I was correct. In their infinite wisdom the 2 4mm screws holding in the injector retaining plates are installed with red loctite!!!!!! What the hell. Naturally the first one sheared off flush with the TB and the rest came out with difficulty. I managed to get the sheared one out eventually but I was lucky for sure. Snap on easy out kit and a scary amount of heat and it was out without damaging anything. The injectors were also difficult to removed which I expected as the o rings dont like to release after years in place and the injectors are hard to get a grab on without damaging them. I devised a process and eventually got them out without damage. Next on the list is to strip down my spare gearbox so I can paint strip and paint the cases. Everyone needs one of these in the workshop. Cheap as chips and work remarkably well. I also have a 20 liter commercial one for the big stuff like cylinder heads etc. Next job. Break down strip and paint the cases to match the engine. Ciao
  19. Lucky Phil


    From the album: V10 Engine

  20. Lucky Phil


    From the album: V10 Engine

  21. Lucky Phil


    From the album: V10 Engine

  22. looks like you're overthinking this a a little. Ciao
  23. I agree, I just purchased 2 Chinese made right angle ignition sensors ( I bought 2 because they were cheap, I mean $10US each and it made no difference to the postage) During my research I found many,many options from many different European business sources that were in a range of 15 to 30 US dollars. Now considering that the cheapest OEM genuine one I could find was around 125 US dollars then these cheaper (visually identical to mine) versions were obviously Chinese made as well. My conclusion is 2 part. 1... The cheap 20-30 US dollar versions sold by European outlets are in fact the same as mine and probably from the same manufacturer with a profit margin applied. 2... There was such a proliferation of them available from reputable outlets that its unlikely they were terrible quality. I mean what reputable company would want the risk to reputation and the hassle of selling a relatively small amount of sensors in the grand scheme of things for a profit of 5 to 10 dollars a piece if they are going to leave customers stranded on the side of the road all over Europe. I guess time will tell if my logic holds up. Ciao
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