Lucky Phil

I decided remove the things altogether and just use a blanking screw and store the adaptors with my sync tool. One less point of failure. Phil

No get rid of it all. Phil

I just let AI do some work for me docc. First search "is Mobil1 a group 4 oil" Yes it is. Then I looked at the dates of the info. Did the same search with 2025 at the front and "no it's now a group 3 base oil" Looks like you were right AND Mobil have turned into the usual modern day corporate scoundrels. Bit like 50% of the packaged food these days in the supermarket. The shelf price is the same as usual but they gradually reduce the qty of the product. Cadbury chocolate bars used to be 200gms and now quietly they have been reduced to 180gms. Pringles moved their factory to New Zealand and the size of their chips shrunk. Corporate bastards. Phil

Mobil 1 docc is a full Grp 4 synthetic as far as I know. Castrol "synthetic has a habit of being a mineral base oil with additives. Remember that court case 20 odd years ago where a US Judge decided what was Synthetic oil and what was not! It's evolved over they years and I don't actually know if it's the best full synth anymore as the market has become flooded with boutique oils now. As for V twin specific oils well thats just another example of a boutique oil. People demand a 20W-50 then if they think there's a market or they can pump one up then they'll make oil for it. At the end of the day fiddling an existing formulation to create a "specific" oil is pretty easy and the biggest cost is the packaging. Bit of extra this a bit less of that a new label on the bottle and presto, V-twin oil. Not saying it's bad just it'll be more marketing than something really advantageous for your engine.

What gear did you ride it up and down the street in? 1st gear wont do it you need to be in 3rd gear and give it a hand full to get maximum torque on the clutch. Just clutchless/race shift it to 3rd or 4th with the clutch in and give it WOT.

Just like technology and the need to keep up to date with it and stay abreast of new developments so it goes with oils. I don't think anyone makes a group 4 full synthetic 20W-50 anymore so thats one I'd leave behind. The 10W-60 is a very large spread and I don't believe is justified in the 8V engine although I know Pete thinks it's justified because it has oil cooling galleries around the exhaust ports. I've never been able to find any data that a 60 weight oil has any appreciable advantage in the ability to extract more heat from a surface than a 40 weight oil plus they won't flow as well in the small oil galleries so I'm not in that camp. Plus the 8V valves are overcooled anyway. I also think from memory Guzzi upped the 8V 1200 oil spec to 60 weight in the midst of their flat tappet failure fiasco which wasn't due to oil viscosity but material coating choice. Sometimes you have to accept that like the 40 ton flywheel the manufacturers have old ideas that they can't sacrifice to modern tech. So Guzzi see someone now makes a 10W-60 and heavier is better so they spec that. Nothing in that engine requires a 60 weight that I can see. The 8V Daytona/Centeuro engine though is another matter. I run 10W-60 in that because in our hot climate with an engine that runs very hot cylinder head temps I think it's justified to hold up the idle oil pressure in the summer weather in traffic.

I guess because things don't necessarily change in a linier manner. It's all a bit of a moot point anyway as you should always aim for a few basic parameters which are. 1 choose a group 4 or 5 genuine synthetic oil 2 choose the lowest "W" grade you can get (mindful of #4) 3 Chose the "hot" grade that suits your operating environment. Commuting, OAT, track days, racing, hot weather two up touring etc. 4 Minimise the grade spread to "30"preferably to minimise the percentage of viscosity improvers in the oil. My Supra with the BMW engine got the 0W-20 dumped at the 1000klm oil change and in went the 5W-30 because I prefer to consider engine wear over meeting mandated fuel economy targets Phil PS here's another thing. Manufacturers often have esp 25 years ago product deals with oil companies and recommend/specify their particular oil products. Sometimes the deals swap to other oil manufacturers and the motorcycle manufacturers oil grade requirements are adjusted to reflect what the new/latest oil manufacture makes viscosity wise.

The TPS voltage change is not an exponential curve but a straight line. Depending on the model of TPS it is either a dead straight line from zero degrees to 87 or a straight line until a break point at 30 deg then another straight line from there. So either the linier or non linier version. Just change the throttle bushes and seals. Delaying replacing the coated bushes will just end up wearing the throttle shafts and then the TB's are scrap unless you have the kind of access to machinery I have. Use the Viton seals now available via CA cycleworks as they will be better than the yamaha seals I'm sure. Phil

Look like you need a Reg. The reg should never spike to 16 volts. Phil

Reconditioning's out of the equation docc I tried that already and it didn't work. The contact surfaces just become tarnished is what happens to them. I think I did a post on my messing with one. Maybe in my Daytona V11 build. If we cannot find a compatible part cheaper I could buy multiple as a group buy and post them to the US to save on postage and you could be the US supplier to the forum, or something. Phil

I can assist with postage if required docc. AUD as well so about 10 cents USD:) https://motociclo.com.au/product/neutral-switch-moto-guzzi-6-speed-and-small-block/

Try adjustment docc with a thinner crush washer first. The contact is internal and can't be accessed without switch disassembly and you ruin the potted switch assembly dissecting it and trying to JBweld it back together. Phil

It's a hell of a lot more than my bikes done. Phil

What sort of lunatic advises on avoiding engine braking! I mean seriously. Avoid "engine braking" to save your drive splines. How are you supposed to ride the bike? Every time you get off the throttle you pull the clutch in? Docc your bike has done a lot of miles, hows the drive splines look? How many have you needed to replace? This advice is up there with not blipping the throttle for downshifts. Maintenance and lubrication is the issue not engine braking which in fact is a minor load on the splines compared to the loads from accelerating the mass of the bike. As for drilling holes in the cush rubbers, well thats a stick your finger in the air and have a guess backyard hackers solution. It's not hard to measure the shore hardness of rubber and if you need something less hard then you can buy liquid Polyurethane in the hardness you desire make a simple mould and mould what you "think" you need. Phil

It's Merican for "modify" for performance or a variation on what we would term "hot up" Phil

Not sure says replacement for Shindengan. Need Kiwiroy input here. Scroll down the page for details https://silent-hektik.de/MG_R_Duc.htm

Their regulators are probably of more interest and they are having a discount sale. Phil

They have regulators as well. https://silent-hektik.de/ICM_MG_1.htm

Yea Mick, AL YOU MIN UM instead of the correct AL YOU MIN E UM. Butchering the Kings English.....again. Like people using the expression "I couldn't care less" and substituting/abbreviating it to "I could care less" which has the opposite meaning entirely. Annoying. Phil

These images remind me of what I used to get emailed to me as an aircraft troubleshooting engineer. We've got this damage/crack/corrosion/defect and I'm sending images for you to look at. Ok. Often blurry but also often crystal clear but without context. I'd call back and ask them to send images with regards to the contextual location on the wing/fuse/engine wherever. Where something is located EXACTLY with regards to the machine is often half the clue to what it is or what it means. Phil

Fuel pressure regulator stuck closed. I've had the bike sitting for a extended period of time and turned the ignition on and heard the pump prime and labour then a sudden distinctive "pop" as the regulator unsticks itself. You will get away with a rich mixture due to a jammed reg with a cold engine but not when it's warmed up. Phil

No Roy. Click on the 3 dots at the top right of your post and select edit from the list. Phil

Yea Pete. Here is my only foray into bar end mirrors my Hailwood Mille. The original stock mirrors were totally horrid as those type of add ons were back in 1985 for Italian bikes. The Italians only added them for legality and didn't expect anyone would actually leave them on. The bar end mirrors was totally shite as well but only fractionally less shite than the OEM ones. I was never happy with it there. The image reminds me of my totally inane obsession with modifying motorcycles goes back well over 40 years like a disease. The Bimota has Campag race wheels with a 5.5 inch rear and a hand cut Michelin rear slick and home made calliper hanger and race disk, bespoke mufflers made for me by Sandy at Staintune, 4 piston Brembos and home made calliper carriers and 320mm rotors at the front and also a bespoke aluminium fuel tank to replace the plastic original. The Mille has pretty much the same wheel and brake mods as well as engine and gearbox and close ratio transmission. God I've wasted a lot of effort on bikes over the years. Like I said a disease.

Yea I'm not a big fan of the CARC drive either or even the V1000, a bit too bulky for mine. Thats one of the reasons why I wanted the different wheels for my bike so I could ditch the bevel box shroud and have a compact and neat final drive in a shaft driven bike. Compact, neat, elegant, mechanically interesting. Still too heavy for a sporting bike but you can't have everything. Phil