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Lucky Phil

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Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. I checked my Daytona build thread and the airbox material is made from cross linked polyethylene. I used Low density polyethylene rods to fix it but as I said it's more like brazing and you need to not actually melt the base material only the filler rod. EDITED materials for clarity and eliminate confusion. Phil
  2. I've successfully repaired quite a lot of motorcycle plastics over the years with nothing more than a small soldering iron and some plastic filler of the appropriate type. The Ducati stuff from a few years ago wasn't possible to weld so I "Veed" out the crack on the inside and used "Scotchweld" ( these days I might use JB weld) in the Veed out section followed by fine copper flyscreen cut to size across the crack and another layer of Scotchweld to embed the screen which worked just fine after the appropriate filling and sanding of the outside face. Some plastics don't weld BUT they do respond to a "braze" repair with the appropriate filler plastic. So you can use filler plastic to bond to the base plastic in a method the equivalent to brazing where it doesn't melt to the base material but still bonds well same as brazing. If you look in my Daytona build thread I explain how it's done on the airbox in some detail from memory. I think the original airbox is made from HDPE which isn't weldable but I managed to do the braze repair with LDPE from memory. That's part of the reason I post stuff for "records" when I forget the details. A pro plastic welder I showed the job to told me it was impossible to weld and said he couldn't help me. He was totally dismissive when I told him about this style of repair after I had done mine but a bit embarrassed when I showed him the results of my brazed method (which I didn't invent just researched). I felt like telling him he might need to find another line of work or at least update his training but managed to "hold back". Very out of character for me.
  3. Don't forget the recovery insurance also covers ending up in a ditch on the side of the road. The "Harley ability to negotiate corners" insurance
  4. I expect the Harley insurance will be very cost effective due to shear scale of the business. Not sure about wait times though, cuing up behind all those Harley riders waiting to be carted back home. Here in Aus every Harley club ride has a following retrieval van/ute. Thats why they call them them "Cattle dogs" here. After a bit of a run in the country they just love a ride home in the ute. Phil
  5. When I developed the map for my Daytona engined bike one of the hardest parts was the cold start schedule. Because the Daytona heads are much larger and a bigger heat sink among other things the engine temp break points needed to be modified to make sure the engine temp trim didn't taper off too quickly. The start enrichment and start trim also needed a fair bit of work as well. It starts and runs well now from cold but there is a definite routine that needs to be followed or it will get sulky and protest. High idle lever to full ON with zero throttle input. Crank the engine and it will fire up within about 2 or 3 revolutions The engine then goes to around 1800rpm and you need to leave it there for around 10 seconds and then you can gradually back off the high idle lever to around 1/4 during the next minute or so. After that you can use the throttle and ride the bike. After a few klms you can close the fast idle lever. The original V11 was a bit less fussy but not by a whole lot, same with my Ducati twins of the last 20 years or so. All big V twins are a bit fussy about starting esp if they have big cams like the Ducatis. The other issue with Guzzi engines is fuel puddling in the intake manifolds when they are cold. Thats what causes the odd repetitive cough they can get while idling cold sometimes.
  6. I think later ones were 15M but no entirely sure. Phil
  7. I have a 15M Myecu sitting in the workshop thats never been used as they became redundant when Guzidiag was released. Do yourself a favour and install the original ecu if it used the 15M which the later bikes did I think and just tune it with Guzzidiag or load some other peoples maps. Phil
  8. Save yourself a headache and just buy new master cylinders. You'll probably get both for around 200USD brand new. Phil
  9. No reinforcement required if your smart enough to no sit on the bike like a muppet when it's on the side stand. Later brackets had an 8mm bolt hole instead of the 6mm hole from memory as did the sump. I don't believe Daytonas and Centies even had the lower bolt provision. They just used the upper large bolt and seemed fine. Phil
  10. Yes docc, cast steel. Phil
  11. I got news for you docc, your Sport is approaching "30 years ago" as well and you still remember the smallest details
  12. We need images. Sounds like Ethanol related sweating to me. have you had the tank off the bike? have you then tried refitting the tank and if so has it swelled? Phil
  13. Blocked fuel tap or tank vent. Phil
  14. https://www.gothamcycles.com/Bodyworkhtml/ducati-brembo-16mm-gold-front-brake-master-cylinder-early-style-748916.html https://ducati-gowanloch.com/?product=brembo-ps16-front-brake-master-cylinder-lever-switch-gold-pn-110-5053-12 Does your "supplier" own a computer, lol. Phil
  15. Yes. Plus any wide sump engine such as the Centauro or Daytona. Phil
  16. It's called a "speed brace" in this part of the world and I've removed about 1 million 10/32 c/s screws with one over my career. Just about every panel on a commercial jet made over the last 60 years uses the afore mentioned screws to secure the external panelling. Once you crack off the screw you can then use just 1 hand on the end of the brace and spin the screw out with a mixing bowl action. The other major benefit is you can push really hard using both hands and body weight or if inverted leg strength on the speed brace to keep the Phillips bit in the screw. You can generate enough torque and force to snap the quality bits off an 1/8 of an inch back from the tip. Useful tool. Phil
  17. And I think from memory the seller replied that he was wrong and they were the same. Phil
  18. Aliexpress! So it's you ruining the US economy then
  19. If all I had to do in my spare time was tinker in my workshop then I'd have many more vehicles than I now have and I have 5 bikes and 3 cars and I struggle to maintain them all. The major issue with keeping which bike as you get older is weight of the bike. I don't just nonchalantly walk up to the V11 these days and grab it and roll it off the bike lifter where it lives. I need to concentrate on what I'm doing and focus. If that thing starts to fall I won't be saving it and I also won't be lifting it off the ground myself either. I do understand why people like Chuck downsize in qty and size as they get older now. Phil
  20. Racebolts are always a lot more expensive than everyone else. You can buy these style bolts cheaper elsewhere but you need to do a bit of hunting them down. I provided the link as one alternative source with a quick search the "deal" is down to you guys.
  21. The issue with the std cap screw is the length of the thread. The Brembo specific bolts have a longer shank than the std 8x40 cap screw. Of course a grade 5 Titanium bolt is the best option but if you don't like 5 quid for a Brembo specific bolt then I doubt you'd spring for Ti ones. Phil
  22. There is often the issue of them doing small jobs. Platers are used to plating mass stuff for the building industry and often struggle with Automotive standards as well. You can be lucky but it'll be cheaper to just replace them when it comes to 8 basic metric fasteners. Also you're better off not pulling those bolts out collectively. You can also by Ti bolts as well for the well healed and weight conscience and the issues with finish will be forever gone. BTW they will be tight and the hex depth is shallow so it's easy to strip the heads out so be prepared for that and take the necessary step to alleviate that. Phil
  23. https://www.probolt-australia.com/stainless-steel-brembo-caliper-pinch-bolt-m8x40mm-pack-x2-ssspduc01-2/?sku=SSSPDUC01-2G&srsltid=AfmBOopk-AB4Mo-YYXdnwqhZCyOLUVtL9Z0cLXEEnDZt7ffZUYLhLdBgues&gQT=1 You can also carefully clean the surface of the heads with Scotchbrite and brush on some flat silver paint if you're worried about pennies. Phil
  24. You should do an Aussie trip yourself docc. Between exchange rates and tariffs we might actually have to pay you to visit
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