Lucky Phil

PM me your address Mick and I'll send some over. We can work out the postage later. Phil

Modern cars have anti syphon components built into the fuel filler tube. Motorcycles don't as that would be impractical on a motorcycle and adversely affect the tank capacity so they use a locking cap instead. Phil

I have some Mick. Phil

Remove the subframe with the tube running across the slave cylinder. It's pretty obvious how it's bolted in when you look at it. Have you bled the clutch? Phil

You don't need to drop the pan just remove the filter and check the sealing face hasn't got a gasket stuck to it. Phil

Remove the oil filter and check you haven't left the old filter seal installed. Sometimes the old seal comes off the filter and stays stuck to the filter sealing face on the filter housing and then you screw the new filter in place on top of the old seal and you get leakage as you describe at lower RPMs Phil

You won't find a slick. It will just spit the tiny amount of gear oil the bevel box carries onto the rear wheel/tyre and fling it everywhere in a spray. It won't be like losing a sump plug and dumping 4 or 5 litres of oil on the road. Phil

Yea docc, you don't get damage like that with Petes method. Thats a shop press support "gone wrong" situation. As for the weld it up solution I'd pass on that as well due to distortion issues. Phil

Were you around to witness this happening docc? I've machined that flange off and if you look at the image above it's like 3mm thick at the box and about 2mm thick at the periphery. I still have the removed piece in the workshop. It would take some sort of 6 inch bench drop to break a section of that thing off even at the periphery. Now a ham fisted set up in a press I wouldn't doubt but a heat and drop on a wooden bench, hmm. Phil

You can buy an aluminium mag plug to fit on ebay from China for like $2 Phil

I'm suspecting the battery and all the electrics now live under the fuel tank? How I don't know.

This works better Mick. https://www.vpw.com.au/rts-differential-master-bearing-kit-suit-9-inch-fo~11881110?srsltid=AfmBOopXnV4Xpxp0oigPC_g1CdqnDRp_tm0eLfX7JR3rW8Pa-IDCz1sdr7o Or this https://torqueking.com/product/90008/qu90008-gear-marking-compound/?sku=90008&srsltid=AfmBOoo6Dfn4xw3NZpGj4RmlrrgORGXrx_2hsxUN2UvKucPvA3IJ_Le9sFw

Just drill a small lockwire hole in the shroud to wire to or an angled hole in the drain plug boss. Phil

Every now and then I'm reminded why I do this. 220 miles without oil! I'm thinking the drive escaping this unscathed is about zero. You could fill it up and run it for a few miles and check the mag plug again and drained oil as docc suggested but I'm thinking it will be a long shot. Phil

We do. Wedgie. Phil

https://www.ohlins.com/en-us/motorcycle/custom-heritage/front-fork-universal-50-54-800-black?brand=universal&model=universal

My aim when modifying a motorcycle docc is to enhance the original concept with better components and create something that is unique but looks like it could have come out of the factory. So not trying to create a "racer" out of a tourer or GT bike and no just stripping it down and making it an uncomfortable, impractical and often illegal bike for the road. There needs to be balance, and an elegance about it and the retention of the original bikes DNA and character. This is why my V11 Sport for instance still retains the non radial callipers. Radial callipers would mean Aprilia RSV forks and a different front guard and that would have eliminated part of the V11 Sports recognisable aesthetic signature. Hanging gaudy aftermarket bit's off it is something i like to avoid as well. Phil

Thanks but I can't view it. Phi

No lube required Mick. The outer bearing is a bronze matrix material like Oilite. Phil

There are some things Mick that require rigidity. I mean would you put you're Vegemite toast on your plate upside down to see what that was like? or try and ride your Le Mans cross handed? Phil

Surely there's a law against riding the course in the reverse direction, it's just not right. I'm not going to watch this video, it would do my head in after memorising the course in the racing direction

There won't be any wear to speak of at that mileage. They use teflon coated bearings etc which are cheap to buy anyway if you need them. Just check the sliders for stone damage to the chrome. Thats what takes out the seals. Removing the lower bracket. Hard work but not necessary for a seal change but required for re chroming the sliders.

Well Mick you can cheat the roadworthy buy prying down the dust seals and inserting some absorbent material in the void between the dust seal and main seal. Usually gets you through the test and a few hundred Klms.

Pretty simple job Mick I did a tutorial on it here somewhere. Phil

Well if you have wet noodle biceps then get a long frame. If on the other hand you have the massive Guns I and other short frame riders are endowed with then hanging onto the odd tank slapper is no problem