Lucky Phil

Item 13 Mick. I'd buy 2 but unless you're a ham fisted moron then snap rings/Circlips like these can be reused many times. Phil

I might be interested in that if Craig doesn't want it. Phil

The cam retaining fitting wears because of lack of lubrication not thrust. Guzzi use tapered cam lobes and domed lifter faces to achieve rotation and the lobes are tapered 8' of a degree in opposite directions between the lobes to avoid end thrust. The later retainers used oil slots to reduce wear on the thrust face. Rotating the engine by hand with a ratchet or spanner speed won't de prime the oil pump, same as it won't prime the oil pump at that speed turned in the correct rotation. It's simply too slow to do any pumping either way. Phil

Yea thats them Pete. I'm a member of that mob but every time I try buying something it gets rejected. Not sure why. On the early bikes with the stick sensor you need to remove the ground wire and somehow uncrimp the holder and connect the wires internally and avoid the possibility of shorting out. Then you need to get the thing to seal fuel again around the nut and tank fitting. I suspect the plastic holder gets old and even with a new seal it wouldn't hold fuel and seeped after about 2 hours. Phil

What model is your bike? the external pump types are a bit of an issue. No new units available and the old units tend to go High resistance when they get old. The thermistor is easily available but almost impossible to replace and the methodology for it retention is quite fiddley and more complex then it appears. Old units also have a habit of being impossible to get to reseal 100% once they have been removed. I have replace my sensor with a blanking plug until I get a chance to manufacture a new aluminium and HDPE probe holder. The thermistor is no issue to source but you also need fuel proof wiring and potting compound. I have a design and materials but need some spare time. Here is one thermistor option although a rip off cost wise. Strangely even the Chinese ebay equivalents are really expensive as well although if you by them in bulk from a Chinese manufacturer they are literally a $1.20 each or something. https://www.npdlink.com/product/sensor-low-fuel-level-warning-sensor-mounted-to/107413 Phil

Buy the factory luggage rack, it doubles as a hand hold and makes pillioning better although it's always shit it's just a little less shit. Phil

So the only way to deal with this is to have the tank bead blasted to remove the paint back to the plastic. Dry the tank out and a full repaint. So probably around 600 dollars US for all that. Phil

Keen Phil

Just take it to a local machine shop and get the required amount surface ground off it. Will take about 30 min on the surface grinder and magnetic chuck. Phil

Yea it's bureaucracy gone mad but they just have to suck it up so they hate foreigners mentioning it in reality. Can't blame them. Phil

As I said it's probably for European legality registration wise. The Europeans have some strict rego laws that are enforced. Phil

Personally Chuck I would say the right hand plug in the image looks perfect. Clean ceramics, no speckly deposits, sharp defined edges on the clean electrode. The others look rich. Interesting plugs. You can remove the ceramics from the body then like old aero plugs? Phil

It looks like V11 99-2000 frame or Daytona/Centauro frame fitted with a 1200 Griso/Sport engine and driveline and Daytona RS tank and fairing and Aprilia RSV1000R seat cowling. Interesting and fitted with the std Griso mufflers so one can assume it's been road legalised other wise why would you retain those massive things. Phil

The plug colour is almost totally dependent on the way you operate the engine. Lots of cold starts and short commuting trips and they will always be sooty with the std heat range. Flogged mercilessly and they will be clean. Plugs readings on a commuter bike is fraught with complications. Thats why race bikes did plug chops in the old days at the end of the practice session with a full throttle blast down the straight and race engines with 1000klms on them look clean as a whistle inside. Phil

Yes commonly done. On my bike the bush is about 15mm high but my fwd tank mounts have been raised 38mm. A 2 valve V11 would be less. Keeps the tank sides off the side covers. Phil

You think? try getting any satisfaction from ebay after being scammed by a seller that sells thousands of items every year. As a buyer/seller with 20 years on ebay and a 100% buying and selling record without even 1 neutral feedback they just fobbed me off even after I proved they were scamming overseas buyers with their own feedback data. Phil

No to the red bar ends but yes to the green front guard. Phil

Yes I think you're right. Phil

Damn you've got me interested now, more work. I have the std green guard but it's such a PITA to swap them out and it's also got a minor crack at one mount point. The black guard is a nice carbon one. Maybe green with a clear stripe in the middle to display the carbon, maybe. I doubt I can spray/reproduce the original colour myself though as the process is a bit tricky. Phil

Maybe some red fork gaiters Chuck? Phil

Strange I've done it many times here. Phil

10 psi on the bike and 15 on the cars that also have plastic reservoirs. The secret to perfect brakes on bikes is to remove the master from the bars and tip it up so the hose connections are lower than the reservoir and gently work the lever so you only move the piston a fraction (with the master off the bars you can't really apply any pressure anyway) This shakes loose air bubbles trapped at the master fitting and observe the air bubbles come back into the reservoir. I would do this procedure at least 6 or 8 times during the bleeding process along with tapping the hoses as well a lot. Patience is the key. I spent at least 45 min filling and bleeding the front brakes to get the best possible lever. Fluid replacement is quick and easy, air bleed from dry time consuming. Phil

I've said it a million times, you need to give brand new designs time to mature. People still don't believe it though. The new V100 Mandello is a case in point, lots of small but niggly detail faults ( and one major safety one) all so far connected to production issues but the design issues always take longer to make themselves apparent. People still seem to think engine designers have got it 100% nailed but nothing could be further from the truth. I recently spent a lot of time in researching issues with the new cars I was considering buying and there are a ton of serious problems with LOTS of major brands that require major mechanical invasion work thats never a good thing when you consider the skill of the average dealer mechanic these days. Here's just a few that come to mind. Mazda 2.5L turbo with the cylinder on demand system, that fails catastrophically. Recall for new head. Same model without COD and cracked heads around the exhaust port header mount. Replacement head. B58 BMW inline 6 oil pump failures and recall to replace the ( new) plastic pump gears. People are generally non technical these days so are totally unaware of these common problems, until it happens to them that is. I could be here all day on this subject but it's a fact. Buy a clean sheet design at your peril. Patience is the key and let the designe mature. It's been the case for nearly 100 years and is just the same today. Phil

Joe makes replacement steel gears for the crank, jackshaft and oil pump and also new pumps. I've been waiting for my third set of gears and pump for 3 years now and he informs me he's found a new gear maker so I should have them by the end of the year. Get an order in now if you want some. The alloy gears are rubbish but if your engine has low miles and isn't likely to accumulate too many then you should be ok. Phil