Lucky Phil

The last place on earth I'd go for those is a Guzzi dealer. The tank cap ones are All M5 but 3 are long and 3 are short decorative ones. Remove the gold ones and you'll find they are the long mount ones at M5X30mm. Buy some Titanium ones off ebay or stainless ones from the hardware store. Phil

So Mick you took that receipt to Germany when you moved there then! Take your used disposable ear plugs as well Phil

I moved away from leather jackets a long time ago. To hot for summer and too heavy (as in weight) for the colder months and various other issues like a lack of storage pockets of any practicality. Modern materials have made the classic leather jacket a bit outmoded in every respect but style. On top of that they shrink every year and no longer fit in a few short years

Brains beats bravado sums it up. Martin gave a perfect example of how not to conduct a race strategy in his situation. Unbelievably he got up blaming Marquez for his off and before that seemed to expect Vinales to just step aside and let him through after he ballsed up his race at turn one. Not to mention his dodgy re-entry to the track just before turn 2. Factory rider class? I don't think so, not yet anyway. Phil

Yes Mick you would need the 15RC ecu to run Lambda. Strange how my bike runs and rides perfectly without Lambda as did the WSB race bike I worked on at one point. On the WSB spec bike one of the mapping mods needed after the usual dyno tuning to Lambda output was for the rider who in various areas needed something other than what was best torque/stio correct to get the throttle feel he needed. Phil

I think Teslas have their place like all EV's just not in my driveway. When owning a car or motorcycle for that matter becomes the same to me as my fridge, washing machine or vacuum cleaner then I'll be in the market for an EV. No automated system to date is perfect and requires human oversight. The 737 NG's I specialised in and did many, many cockpit hours in would at top of descent under autopilot control overspeed the aero six times out of ten unless the pilot intervened. The interface between the autopilot and auto throttle used to get it all wrong and it was never resolved to my knowledge. The Active cruise on my cars is the same, good but not perfect and require monitoring. The issue is the operators, the systems will never be perfect. The worlds been made so safe now all the stupid people aren't naturally culled from the herd anymore and end up taking out the smart people. The future looks promising Phil

It gets worse. This guy Greg is a commercial pilot/Captain that flies for a US airline. All his stuff esp on WW2 aircraft is excellent and very detailed. He has a Car gig on the side and has authored books on Turbocharging cars etc. He's a long way from some sort of conspiracy theorist. Phil

They do but they can't control what the teams do with them. All heat cycles on the warmers are monitored and logged. A tyre thats been on the warmers and done a cycle is not as good as a fresh tyre with zero heat cycles on it, etc. Slightly too hot setting on the warmer? Tyre is junk. This is how stupid MotoGP is getting,. Becoming like F1. Aero, suspension jacking it's all going down a blind alley just like F1. Phil

We still get a choice here docc between E10, regular standard(91) 95 octane and 98 octane PULP thank god. How long it will last I don't know. Phil

Thats why I have the tail and stop light elements both wired to come on together for higher load. Pick your poison. Massively lighter weight or an inconvenience in some conditions. I'm never going to be on a bike in cold conditions anyway. Cold to me is sub 15 deg C, lol. Phil

Any retail bearing supplier. Just ensure you get either US, German or Japanese made bearings. Any of the major brands. NSK, Timken, Koyo etc. Phil

I have an automotive stop and tail light bulb with pigtails soldered to it for testing stuff and removing the flash charge from batteries before testing with a meter etc. If I had this cold weather issue with a Lithium battery I'd just fit my home made tool with either an accessory socket that plugs into the std one on the bike if fitted or onto the remote charging fly leads and let the combined stop and tail light illumination of the bulb warm the battery. My simple tool cois up to the size of the palm of your hand and fits in the front pocket of a pair of jeans. Failing that any simple pair of short leads and a resistor of some kind would work. Plug in a heated vest for a while might do it as well. Phil

Yea I saw that but didn't realise you could buy online. Phil

Ok so I will try a Lithium battery. I've used one in my Suzuki track bike but that's a Japanese charging system not a Luigi system. Shorai batteries are a bit of an issue to get here though. Phil

I feel somewhat better now knowing that. I weighed a V11 bare head fitted with valves and springs and the inlet manifold and rubber and a bare Daytona head without valves rockers etc but with the rocker support and a cam in it. I doubt a Daytona head would weigh more than 2 Kg over the V11 head complete. So that's 4 KG plus cam drive pulleys and belts etc. So I think the engine would be in that +5 to 6kg more range. The cams alone in the Daytona engine weigh 865 Grams each and it still has a jackshaft in place of the original Camshaft. As Mick said a Lithium battery would drop probably 5 KG. Is there any experience with the LiPo batteries in the V11. Does the charging system treat them OK? I'm sure some here have tried them in the past. Phil

I think your maths is ok docc. Maybe southern hemisphere weight is different to northern. Phil

Well my bike also has the Stucchi crossover and the Agostini mufflers for probably a weight saving of 6Kg. As an estimate I'd say the Daytona engine weighs maybe 6-8Kg more than the V11 engine. Lighter rods, crank but heavier heads inc cams etc, and valve drive gear. So I've dumped around 16Kg added about 6-8 and somehow ended up with a bike heavier than a std V11 Sport. Phil

No just the tyre and wheel combinations but the tyres were 170 and 180 so not much use there. The rear shock is better but probably heavier although it has an alloy body but preload adjuster assembly will weigh a bit. I'd be interested to know what a std V11 Sport weighs in at. It would be above what Guzzi advertised at the time I'm sure now. It's also got the later 43mm forks and much lighter 25mm hollow front axle. How's it handle? Better than before by a decent margin. Phil

So I weighed the V10 Sport today. The bike has a wheel/tyre/axle combo that's 9KG lighter than stock and a single plate aluminium clutch and flywheel and about 80% Titanium fasteners for reference. It also has the chin spoiler, bikini fairing and a Wilbers full spec shock with remote hydraulic preload adjuster. Total weight......231Kg with all fluids and no fuel. Front 114Kg- Rear 122Kg minus 5KG for fuel. The centre of the wheelbase is in line with the gearbox to engine interface. I've never liked those scales. Phil

Not quite right. The ratio area of the master to the slave cylinder determines the force that can be applied (and the lever ratio as well but we'll leave that) and the "travel" of the master and therefore the volume of fluid displaced determines the travel of the slave. Phil

Thats about 20% what the rest of the world want for them. I think AF1's pricing might be a little suspect. Phil

My point is when you mark the throttle housing to give you a rough indication of the throttle position don't mark the fully closed position as zero or you'll be even further out in your already rough and ready attempt to indicate throttle opening. Yes a multimeter is required because GD isn't accurate enough. Phil

From the sealing face on the sensor flange to the centre of the sensor is 135mm plus the 2 mm thick sealing washer so 137mm total. I made the sealing washers myself from HDPE and will make any plastic components I need from the same if the final design needs a plastic component. Phil

Just see what Guzzidiag indicates as closed throttle degrees. The fuel map has throttle position break points below the actual throttle blade degrees at the set idle position. So your bike will probably have a throttle angle of 4 degrees or so at idle. Dont assume that the lower throttle break points like 2, 2.4 2.9 etc are a factor when you are estimating your throttle percentage from fully closed when riding. Your base line closed angle is probably around 4 degrees not zero. Just sayin.

That is misguided. Phil