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Onibaka

I ask for help with service.

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1 hour ago, gstallons said:

I hope everyone knows all the input is given to help a brother get everything dialed in on his bike . 

 This valve adjustment is simple when you realize you are adjusting valves on a single cylinder bike . Then you are doing the same thing on the other side .  

I've never looked for the marks , just bar the engine over to TDC . Set the valves , repeat . 

This could be a "Ted Talk" at the 16th Southern Spine Raid on tech (bourbon) night?

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I adjusted the valve to 0.15 / 0.20. Everything seems to be fine)

Maybe in vain I started a discussion here, but we talked and you know that I know what TDC is :grin:

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Another problem :unsure:

After rain, the engine runs intermittently, as if the spark does not always fire.

This already happened after the rain, but then after 10 minutes of malfunctioning the problem went away and he drove as if nothing had happened before the next rain and now the problem does not go away.

The engine starts only with the gas handle open and stalls when the gas is closed (at idle). The engine itself works coughing and unevenly.

Maybe there are places where moisture can get after the rain, which could lead to such consequences? I connect this problem with the rain, because it happens the second time after the motorcycle gets wet.

I exchanged relays for working ones and before that I was pressing contacts. Grounding on the box is also ok. I inspected the candle high-voltage wires but did not find signs of wear.

Valves have been regulated recently.

There are cracks on the connecting horns from the air filter, but it seems to me that could not lead to such consequences.

At the weekend I will check the readings of the sensors (TPS, temperature), the pump contacts (it is new).

Maybe R.P.M. AND T.D.C. sensor? I found forum posts with a similar problem. Just until I realized how it can be checked.

Glad to any advice

 

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After rain, the engine runs intermittently, as if the spark does not always fire.

I have had that problem with a leaking "candle" boot.. but you said you'd checked the wires.

It's really hard to diagnose this problem from a continent away, though.

Quote

The engine starts only with the gas handle open and stalls when the gas is closed (at idle). The engine itself works coughing and unevenly.

 

Only starting with the throttle open a bit is normal. Not idling, of course, is not. Coughing and unevenly firing, combined with not idling "sounds" like a vacuum leak.. but maybe not.

Quote

At the weekend I will check the readings of the sensors (TPS, temperature)

My guess is you will find your problem there.. but maybe not. :)

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I see the (fuel) pump is new?

Perhaps a check that it's electrical connections (as you have planned to check) and inlet fuel hose have not loosened?

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6 hours ago, Onibaka said:

There are cracks on the connecting horns from the air filter, but it seems to me that could not lead to such consequences.

I believe that cracks in the intake rubbers are bad. The V11 is sensitive to air leaks, and you should renew those cracked parts soon, even if this is not the cause of your problem. You could test if the cracks are causing air leaks by spraying the rubbers with starting fluid (diethyl ether/propane) while the engine is running. If speed increases, then you have a leak. Be careful if you try this, I don't want to see a picture of your bike in flames. :unsure:

You could smear sealant over the cracks as a temporary repair.

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12 hours ago, MartyNZ said:

I believe that cracks in the intake rubbers are bad. The V11 is sensitive to air leaks, and you should renew those cracked parts soon, even if this is not the cause of your problem. You could test if the cracks are causing air leaks by spraying the rubbers with starting fluid (diethyl ether/propane) while the engine is running. If speed increases, then you have a leak. Be careful if you try this, I don't want to see a picture of your bike in flames. :unsure:

You could smear sealant over the cracks as a temporary repair.

Well I rode the Daytona/V11 around with the with the inlet manifold vacuum balancing adaptors uncovered and it ran fine. I forgot to install the blanking caps and didn't realise until I got back home. (it was just a few laps around the block) did't even notice.

Ciao

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^^^^ True. For it to run really badly.. requires a massive vacuum leak. Like a backfire causing a throttle body to come loose from the rubber. Don't ask me how I know this..:rasta:

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The problem is found and resolved.

Everything turned out to be very banal: the TPS sensor died.

I checked all the relays, sensor resistances, ignition coils and all harness connections, grounding, fuses, and only at the end I decided to check the TPS.

You may ask: "why I did not check it first"? :luigi:

Last year I had a very similar problem and then I ordered a new PF3C sensor.

s-l500.jpg

As it turned out then, it was a wire to the relay, and I left this new TPS.

And I did not expect that he will serve me less than a year, I traveled on it for about 4,000 km.:huh2:

He returned his old PF4C sensor from Harley and everything is great again! :thumbsup:

 

In fact, I thought that I would sell it to hell and buy a Japanese motorcycle. He got scared and earned :D

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