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2002 v11 Scura electrical issues....need help


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Bought this bike from a guy who hasn't ridden it much lately so battery might need to be replaced. Placed it on battery tender and it does get fully charged. Voltage meter across the battery leads is at 12.5 when fully charged. Then when I try to start it, the engine turns over fine but takes time to start. Got it started like this several times since I bought the bike but today when I tried it, the engine kept turning over and did not start. Eventually starts turning over slower and seems like battery is about to die. Then all the dash lights shut off at once while trying to start. Checked fuse....the #15 fuse with the circle with two dots on it had blown. Replaced it and tried to start it up again and same thing happened. Fuse blew agai after trying to start. Where do I even start diagnosis this problem. I'm new to working on electrical issues so not sure what the problem is. Any help is appreciated

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Just a digression & comment;   Recently took my Griso in to a dealer to deal with a 'top end tappet' noise. Two weeks went by. At that point they had identified it was a 'top end tappet' noise,

The magnets sometimes come unglued from the case that jambs up the works, the assembly is not very complicated.   Pull it apart you might see something easily fixed I am really interested to see wh

Step two. Take it off. It's not rocket science. 

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Check your main ground strap. It's usually behind the helmet lock on the transmission. Clean and lube/seal it with Vaseline or dielectric grease.

 

Sounds like it might be time for a tune up. Valve check, TPS setup and TB balance. There are a few threads detailing how to do it here. Be patient and take your time it's a bit fiddly the first couple times.

Even in good tune my bike takes a little bit of throttle to start when cold.

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Thanks will try the ground wire clean/lube. Yes definitely needs a good tune. I might even just take it to a mechanic once I get it running and have major service done.

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 I'm new to working on electrical issues . . .

Not for long! :grin:

 

+1 on the weak battery: 12.5 volts is 75% state of charge depending on the temperature. Try to use the reconditioning methods in the thread Scud linked and you may bring it back.

 

The blown fuse makes the ignition switch suspect. They are prone to breaking wires internally, but are easy to service per Kiwi_Roy:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16615&hl=%2Bignition+%2Bswitch

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If the battery is low I think the ECU has trouble starting, I know mine won't even bump start if it gets too low.

It corrects for Voltage but only down to about 9V I think, after that it may not even be able to open the injectors. (my theory only)

 

If the Voltage gets too low the start solenoid may not have enough grunt to close the contacts in which case It could sit there pulling many times the normal current with both coils energized and blow the fuse. (normally the second coil is only alive for 

 

Make certain the main ground is securely attached to the gearbox. I know of at least 3 VIIs that let out magic smoke when the ground worked loose.

The starter turns over slowly and heavy start current cannot get back to the battery direct so it finds it's way to the small regulator ground wire heating it to red hot which melts adjacent wires in the loom.

(I think the slow cranking in your case is just the battery)

 

You have a special bike there, when do we get a picture?

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I concur with the others. 12.5V is not fully charged. I'd be looking for > 12.7. On the battery charger it should be going to over 14V.

Given your other bikes you should be able to rig up a boost with jumpers. If that helps your start then your problem is found.

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scurav11.jpg

 

Thanks for all the responses. Might as well get a new battery since I have no idea how old this one really is. Any recommendations as to which one to get? Didn't have a chance to work on it today but hopefully tomorrow. 

 

 

 

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I would go for a standard AGM battery, i have had a Yuasa since I got mine, it has given no trouble once the first one was replaced under warrantee

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

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After charging your battery leave it for about 3 hours to stabilize. A fully charged 12v battery is 12.65v at rest.

True for a "wet" cell, but the AGM are 100% at 12.84vDC.

 

An AGM will be 80% at 12.65v and should be charged at that point . . .

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Many of us are using the Odyssey,but I would trust KiwiRoy's suggestions.My original battery was still working but when I did a restoration of the bike two years ago, I replaced it with the Odyssey even though it was still working fine but showing signs of slowing.

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so i went with a Yuasa AGM and filled it and charged it for 20hours per instructions.  Got 13.28v across the leads at full charge and then installed it and tried it out.  Same thing happened: fuse blew and bike did not start.  Not sure whats going on.  There are currently 3 wires connected to each lead.  I checked behind the helmet lock and did nnot see any wires attached to the frame so not sure where the ground is going.  Anyone able to explain or show a picture of what the wires on the battery leads should look like?  Thanks

 

I will look at the ignition switch in the meantime.

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