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Lucky Phil

V11 Daytona project

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1 hour ago, luhbo said:

That's the standard procedure also for dead oil pressure switches. Same system, same problems. I'm using Uhu-Plus for this, a standard 2K Epoxy glue. Part of the problem are the small venting holes in combination with power cleaners like S100 or the like.

Oh really, I didn't notice any vent holes. Hope I haven't covered them in loctite.

Ciao

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Usually it's a small rectangular slot near the center contact, but I've also seen switches without one.

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1 hour ago, luhbo said:

Usually it's a small rectangular slot near the center contact, but I've also seen switches without one.

Thanks I'll check mine.

Ciao

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On 9/14/2019 at 10:05 AM, Lucky Phil said:

Another surprise. I pulled the old input shaft seal today and noted the input shaft fwd bearing not seated in the casing to the tune of 1.5mm short. You can see the evidence of this in the inner race. Should be fairly easy to rectify. Its not a major issue other than the bearing outer race is not fully supported in the case. Makes you wonder whos putting these things together sometimes. Might be the same guy that lubricates CARC swingarm bearings. He's moved onwards and upwards.

That's around 1.5 mm short of the shoulder.

DSC00857.JPG

Evidence of the bearing not running central on the race.

DSC00858.JPG

 

Ciao

could be also some sort of quick bodging to position the shaft lenghtwise. You checked the shimming of the shafts?

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1 hour ago, luhbo said:

could be also some sort of quick bodging to position the shaft lenghtwise. You checked the shimming of the shafts?

There's no shimming on the 6 speed shafts apparently. I think there is on 5 speeds though. End float is controlled by the ball bearings on the aft end.

Ciao

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And so it begins

DSC00879.JPG

I had the side flow injectors cleaned and flow tested from the throttle bodies I had. Originally 1 wouldn't pulse so I dropped them in the the ultrasonic bath and the dud one seemed to come good. However it also seemed to not pulse for the first few applications of voltage so I figured it must still be dirty. I rigged up a 9 volt battery to pulse the injector open and put it back in the ultrasonic bath this time with a mixture of injector cleaner and petrol. This was a well dodgy thing to do and I did it outside with an extinguisher on hand. Anyhow it didnt seem to work.

The reason for all this messing about was it was hard to find anyone to clean the side flow injectors, top feed easy but the side flows was problematic. Anyway I finally found a company and initially one wouldnt pulse but after cleaning on their special machine it came up good.

Just wanted to eliminate as many variables as I can starting a new engine without the std fuel map.

Ciao  

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There are places here in the U.S. that offer this cleaning and will test them to make sure they will match on a flow bench . Google ( for your area ) and see what you can find.

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A little retro-thinking here about the tranny crack. From the location and direction of the crack, could it be that the torque being transmitted "stretched" the case as the final output is trying to pull the case away from the mount? A 3.5mm thickness next to the mount boss seems almost certain to go at some point, what with the torque pulses softly hammering away on the alloy.

I'm new to MG but one thing immediatley noticeable is that the torque impulses are not resolved into the frame as with transverse engines. Rather than lifting the frame, it is a twisting force. But, I'm a noob, so my thinking may be skewed here.

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I figured that gunning the motor and accelerating like heck was one of the reasons I cracked the gearbox case. 

So I guess I needed the brace so I could continue to gun it like heck.

  • Haha 1

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Hmmm . The case needed to have the sharp edges smoothed and the brace added . I don't think flogging the bike caused any of this damage .

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But 3.5mm case thickness. Of all the places for Guzzi to try to save weight!

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I dont believe the cracking is due to any torque related issues or even transmission/engine support. The engine and trans assembly are supported at 3 main locations (front timing cover, upper and lower gearbox mounts) which from my experience is plenty for an old 2 valve engine of this torque and weight etc. I also dont think its from rear mount bolt crush either as the webs between the upper lugs on the rear mount seem adequate.

There has been a suggestion that the later cases are cast from superior material but unless someone can show me some specific data I doubt this. The cracking simply wasn't any sort of issue when the bikes were being produced and Guzzi aren't the sort of company that reacts with any kind of haste even if it was. By the time Guzzi would have reacted the gearbox would have been 10 years out of production. I still know people that have been dealing with Guzzi's for 30 years and have never heard of gearbox case cracking on 6 speeds.    

I believe the cracking is initiated during cooling after the casting process. The areas where the cracking occurs is at very tightly cast corners where the casting transitions from a thin to a very thick section. I think that some castings suffer from this and some dont and the cracking propagates over a period of time for the ones that do. This I believe is why some bikes suffer and some dont. Of course there is also accident damage as a possibility.

I have fitted the extra gearbox mount plate but frankly with the bike stripped down and looking at it I dont see the necessity for it. I'll continue to run it for the belt and braces feel but I dont see it as necessary. I'll also dye check the original gearbox case when I get a chance. 

Ciao    

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Took me a while to work out how to pull the engine single handed but got there eventually. Dropped the engine down and then slid it off the stand down my loading ramp which I normally use on the end as the Ducati's drag their under engine pipe as you roll them on and off.

No idea what to do next. Might build another timber cradle as this one is a nice way to store the engine and move it around without damaging it.

I need to fit the new engine and trans to the frame and determine the design for the front tank mount and make something up as it needs to be raised around 30mm. There is also some interference issues at the rear between the fuel regulator and the TPS I believe which swapping the reg and the fuel tap may just alleviate, time will tell. After that I'll decide on whether I strip the frame down entirely and repaint it.  

Oddly my gearbox has a serial number engraved on the bell housing.Its a factory done thing with the eagles at both ends. The new trans doesnt have one. Is this typical? 

 DSC00884.JPG

DSC00883.JPG

Ciao

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Could that perhaps have been a warrantied unit?

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3 hours ago, po18guy said:

Could that perhaps have been a warrantied unit?

Well it had the recall done on it here in Australia when owned previously to me but the s/n markings are factory applied.

Ciao

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